2021 Shock Therapy (2 Viewers)

[BILT4ME]

@BILT4ME guys at marlin got back to me and thought my pitman arm hole has been wallowed out....seems like a long shot no?

Looked at my passenger side 555 and it is now seeping grease from the boot. Will try the washers when I get a chance to pick some up, still seems like that would flatten the boot too much though, or is that not a problem?

For fun I tried my old one....and works just fine at FSM spec.

Found an old thread in the 40 section that looks like same issue too: Brand New Tie Rod Ends - Is this Normal? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/brand-new-tie-rod-ends-is-this-normal.775450/



View attachment 2589708

Pull off the 555 and measure the diameter of the shaft at the boot and at the end of the threads by the tapered part. Then do the same on your old one. They SHOULD be the same. If the 555 is smaller, it's a bad part.

Take pics of each, side by side if you can.

The guys at Marlin will accept it if they can see the differences and see it's the part that's different, not the hole it's going into.

I had heard of some "fake" 555 parts a long time ago, but I don't know how truthful that was.

 

[HardyDanger]

Mariln said I could ship the parts back and they'd inspect them too, that pic above was good enough for them good peeps there.
Still might measure anyway since I just got a new digital caliper last week (old one finally gave up the ghost after 15 or more years).

 

[Railwelder93]

Marlin crawler is an outstanding company. I’ve always been impressed when dealing with them.

 

[HardyDanger]

Two questions. THANK YOU!

1. I’ve been running the slee headlight harness+2 Aux harnesses for about 4 years. I’m trying to clean up my positive battery terminal. Currently I have the 4 positive connectors from the 3 harnesses stacked on a stud on the main battery. (I've since learned from my 12v marine guy that he won't stack anything more than 3 on a terminal.) Is there any reason why I can’t solder those 4 12g leads into a single 8 gauge wire with a single ring terminal and attach that to the positive stud on the battery? See below? Other option is a positive bus bar, but trying to keep it simple.

1. I also discovered that this link was coming apart on the headlight harness, and burning through. I’ve cut that out already, no need for a disconnect. Question, there is no inline fuse on this side. Should there be a fuse before the battery connection on these two leads or, is it already protected by the fuses in main panel?
   
   
   

Maybe have been stressed by the way I had it zip tied, one side was fresh, the other looks like it had been torn for a while, this was in a split conduit, so didn’t inspect till now.

 

[george_tlc]

^

Given the 80 already has relays for the headlights (unlike some older vehicles that ran power through the stalk), I see no good reason to run additional relays etc. I personally would toss it all out and go factory, less wiring crap hanging everywhere -> more reliable.

cheers,
george.

 

[HardyDanger]

I don't disagree, but having the fog lights linked to low beams and driving lights linked to hi beams is a nice to have, not required obviously, and I know there are other ways to accomplish that. Also, I think it was my first mod, so it has.....sentimental value

Truth be told, Just want my headlights back for now and I don't want to rip it all out right now, it's low on the list with a bunch of other parts inbound.

 

[ZackR]

Two questions. THANK YOU!

1. I’ve been running the slee headlight harness+2 Aux harnesses for about 4 years. I’m trying to clean up my positive battery terminal. Currently I have the 4 positive connectors from the 3 harnesses stacked on a stud on the main battery. (I've since learned from my 12v marine guy that he won't stack anything more than 3 on a terminal.) Is there any reason why I can’t solder those 4 12g leads into a single 8 gauge wire with a single ring terminal and attach that to the positive stud on the battery? See below? Other option is a positive bus bar, but trying to keep it simple.

View attachment 2590519

1. I also discovered that this link was coming apart on the headlight harness, and burning through. I’ve cut that out already, no need for a disconnect. Question, there is no inline fuse on this side. Should there be a fuse before the battery connection on these two leads or, is it already protected by the fuses in main panel? View attachment 2590521View attachment 2590522View attachment 2590520

Maybe have been stressed by the way I had it zip tied, one side was fresh, the other looks like it had been torn for a while, this was in a split conduit, so didn’t inspect till now.

I installed the Slee harness thinking it would be better.... it wasn't. My low beams went out on a road trip and I disconnected those from the harness and went back to stock. I still have it in there for the high beams but plan to take the whole thing out at some point.

The best/cheapest/easiest headlight upgrade is the Wagner 9011 bulbs from rock auto ($8 each). I use them on the high beams (direct fit) and low beams (trim the plastic a bit). Much brighter.

 

[HardyDanger]

Wagner 9011 bulbs from rock auto ($8 each).

Agreed! Running 9011s, that's the other piece that sparked this latest effort (pun intended) one of the low beams died, and started digging before replacing the new bulbs. And well, once you start pulling at a thread....

 

[leonard_nemoy]

The slee headlight harness was a huge improvement on my 91. The lights were brighter with the same bulbs and they stopped dimming when rolling windows down, running the turn signals or everytime the sub hit.

 

[leonard_nemoy]

Is there any reason why I can’t solder those 4 12g leads into a single 8 gauge wire with a single ring terminal and attach that to the positive stud on the battery?

I am certainly no electrical engineer but I really think you would be fine to join those 4 wires into one ring terminal.

Honestly you should just give Slee a call and ask them your two questions. They are great with customer service.

Calling @sleeoffroad.....

 

[HardyDanger]

Meanwhile. Got the $50 / 1hr cargo net installed.

top is tensioned by screwing in the c channel to the grab bar mounts. Had to burn in a hole in the webbing. Bottom still needs a little adjustment extra carabiner across the middle, but will at least keep larger items at bay.

I use the chain for kids booster anchors

I might use the c channel for some kind of loft too. (Later).

 

[leonard_nemoy]

I like it, where did you get the webbing?

 

[HardyDanger]

I like it, where did you get the webbing?

Cool. Net Link is up in post #1. Everything else is from home dopey, key was the 5/16”. X 1/2” spacers.

 

[HardyDanger]

FWIW: slee got back to me re post #44:
1) yes, wiring all positive leads together on one ring is legit. I sourced a copper mechanical ring terminal (with a set screw) then soldered all wires to the lug too. Done. So the harness will stay in place. Also installed a new 9012s and 9011s. (the lows last about 18months on average. I got a good deal on the highs, so figured put in the new ones, hold the old ones for spares.)

2) regarding the connector. they would have sent me a new one gratis, but I've elected bypass it altogether.

All good!