2008 LX570 Pre-Purchase Questions & Request for Help from a Newbie (1 Viewer)

Joined
Apr 17, 2020
Messages
13
Location
VT
Good day everyone, and hope you are doing well in these crazy times.

First off, sorry for the long post. I'm a long time lurker, first time poster, who has spent some time on this site a few times in the past 5 or so years doing research as I contemplated moving into a LC. Due to some really bad timing, I'm in the market for a car right now and am seriously considering finally getting a LC. I had been looking at 100 series trucks initially, but then came across this 2008 LX570 this is within my price range and seems solid. I've tried to do my research prior to posting, thanks for making such a thorough resource available to like-minded individuals.

I also want to describe my expected use cases. I live in northern Vermont. Winter is generally long (Nov-Mar), cold and full of snow (and salt). I expect to daily drive this car, ideally for 10+ years. I'll likely average under 10k miles a year, with a 15 mile daily commute and lots of trips to the mountain in the winter. In the summer/fall, I expect to make use of the off-roading capabilities largely on Vermont's extensive network of class 4 roads (something like a fire road - not passable in a regular car or car-like SUV), but don't expect to be doing crazy rock crawling or overlanding at this time. I've also got a good sized family (5 of us, plus the dog), so it will haul people too.

I'm hoping you kind folks can help sanity check this for me, as well as provide some commentary on the underside images as I realized I didn't really know if what I was seeing was bad or not.

Some details about the truck:
  • 1 owner, dealer maintained
  • 100% stock, seems like it was a mall crawler from Greenwich, CT (which is a very affluent area, if you are not familiar)
  • 119k miles
  • Service performed every 5k miles as expected
    • the only recommended item that I could not find a record of was an AHC fluid flush at 60k
      • How big a concern is this if I get it done as a part of the 120k?
    • both the radiator and water pump have been replaced in the past 30k miles
    • New OEM tires in the past 5k miles
    • Dealer installed new brake pads & rotors as well as valve cover gaskets as part of their reconditioning
  • It's clean and looks like it has been well cared for over the past 12 years, inside and out
  • It has also spent it's entire life in the northeast, and the underside reflects that fact
    • This is my biggest concern at this point, and I realize I have no idea if what I'm looking at is bad or not
      • Underside pics are at the bottom of this post
      • Hoping to get some feedback on these pictures - should I stay away, or does it look manageable?
  • It also is in need of the 120k mile service, which i've quoted at both a Toyota dealer and a reputable independent 4x4 shop as about $2k
    • Does that seem reasonable?
I'm trying to get the dealer to complete the 120k mile service and include it in the cost i've been quoted for the car, those negotiations are still ongoing.

My main questions to the the forum are:
  1. How big a concern is the fact that the AHC fluid is original?
  2. How big a concern/potential deal-breaker is the underside?
    1. Does my expectation to keep this thing in crappy NE winters for another decade influence this at all?
  3. Do y'all think this sounds reasonable for $20,500?
Thanks so much in advance for any feedback you can provide. I've found myself in a situation where I've largely convinced my wife that buying a 12 year old truck with 120k miles on it is not a totally stupid idea, and I am now trying to ensure I don't make myself look like a total idiot in the next year or so if I pull the trigger on this thing.

Again, thank you!

Darren
IMG_1537.jpg
IMG_1538.jpg
IMG_1539.jpg
IMG_1541.jpg
 

grinchy

SILVER Star
Joined
Feb 17, 2018
Messages
4,040
Location
Seattle, WA
Flushing the AHC fluid is not a big deal, an easy home project which costs about $150 in fluid and requires only a torx and a 12mm and a small open end wrench for bleeding. You're probably also soon due for new accumulators, which run about $800 in parts. It takes a couple hours, but is not complicated (side steps and then one bolt each on accumlator and some bleeding that is like brake bleeding but easier).

This forum is allergic to rust. However I have to say that looks manageable to me. Perhaps one of the NE residents could chime in? @CharlieS maybe?

Maybe you can budget in $1000 to have it remediated?
 

tincan45

Smooth brain Okie with a credit card.
SILVER Star
Joined
May 8, 2019
Messages
738
Location
Tulsa, OK
With that amount of rust I would be very cautious with AHC. Rust is NOT your friend. I have a hard time believing the AHC fluid hasn't been changed. It looks like the front pressure valve controller has been replaced (look too new), so AHC work has already been done.

Unless you are getting a "crazy" good deal or don't mind doing an AHC delete I would pass for another option.
 

grinchy

SILVER Star
Joined
Feb 17, 2018
Messages
4,040
Location
Seattle, WA
FWIW I was in the same decision between 100s and 200s and went with an older high mile 200. As time wears on I think this will be the right choice.

Prices were within a few $1000.

Primary driver was more airbags and the 5.7l
 
Joined
Apr 17, 2020
Messages
13
Location
VT
If I completed this purchase, I would fully expect to spend some money dealing with rust remediation.

The price was $20,500, is that "crazy" good?

As far as the AHC fluid, I'm basing my observation on the fact I could not find it called out in the maintenance history. It's possible the previous owner had it done somewhere else or the dealer didn't note it, but both seem less than likely given the extensive visits to the dealer. I had noticed the difference in those parts from one side to the other (what I'm assuming @tincan45 named as front pressure valve controllers) and had been curious about that.

The comments are appreciated.
 

CharlieS

GOLD Star
Joined
Feb 4, 2005
Messages
3,214
I dropped you a PM too.

I'm in VT too, so I'm dealing with rust myself (and have with every car I've ever owned). It adds hassle to everything.

That's a lot of rust, and that would scare me off - there are a lot of costly bits under any 200, and AHC is a big ticket item - rust makes everything a nightmare.

Mechanically I'm sure it'd be great for another couple of hundred thousand miles, but the rust... I'd plan on big ticket spending if you ever have to deal with the suspension.

The price sounds fair to me, as long as you can live with the rust.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Mar 23, 2020
Messages
43
Location
Charleston, SC
For a $20K+ purchase- that sure looks like a lot of rust.
I’d keep looking.
Try and find a truck out of FL or TX and avoid the salt.
Kings Chariot out of Jacksonville have some great LX and LCs- they’d be a good benchmark for pricing.
 

tincan45

Smooth brain Okie with a credit card.
SILVER Star
Joined
May 8, 2019
Messages
738
Location
Tulsa, OK
I think there are cleaner options if you are willing to shop other markets. Personally, I'd much rather pay 23K for a clean Southern car than 20K for a 10+ year old northern car.

Just my $.02
 
Joined
Mar 23, 2020
Messages
43
Location
Charleston, SC
I just bought a 2016 LC and I’m going to be selling my 03 LC soon. It’s super clean. Stock except for chunky tires, upgraded Alpine speakers and new factory sub) and newly installed LED headlights.
178K miles. I’ve done 22K miles in 7 years after buying it from the original owner (a guy who owned a chain of tire and brake shops in Seattle- a LC enthusiast too).
Spent 15 years in the PacNW before I moved to Charleston 18 months ago.
It will be a whole lot less than $20K too......
if you’d like to check it out- send me a PM
 
Joined
May 18, 2017
Messages
1,231
Location
Vernon, BC
I would also pass on that particular vehicle. That amount of rust is probably reasonable for the age, mileage & location, but if you plan to keep the LX long-term, that rust will be a constant pain.

I also did some rust remediation work somewhat recently; just to give you an idea of what might be involved: Builds - eatSleepWoof's '14 LX. Start at that post and scroll down.
 

Sandroad

SILVER Star
Joined
Jan 31, 2009
Messages
3,297
Location
Michigan
I'm very rust tolerant, but this one is probably a no if you're planning on a 10 year, 100K mile ownership. You'd be starting with a lot of rust. In the second photo, near the top of the image, something is rusting through (exhaust component?) and will need replacement. These rusty trucks really bug me because with a caring owner it's possible to forestall much of that and it's such a shame to have that happen to otherwise great vehicles. You may be able to save this one, but it would be a lot of extra work/money/time and that doesn't fit with what you've told your wife!
 

bloc

SILVER Star
Joined
Sep 19, 2008
Messages
6,438
Location
Central Texas
I think there are cleaner options if you are willing to shop other markets. Personally, I'd much rather pay 23K for a clean Southern car than 20K for a 10+ year old northern car.
As much as I personally wouldn’t want to see a clean southern 200 sent to the land of dissolving cars, I can’t stress what tincan said enough. If you plan to keep this thing for a while it will be well worth your time and money to find one that is a clean slate in terms of rust. One like in the pictures is already WAY behind the curve, and will present problems any time you have to loosen chassis bolts for suspension, exhaust, drivetrain, rear brake, or other work. Even if you clean it up, you just won’t be able to address the cancer that has worked its way into all those fasteners and nooks & crannies. I’m not saying the frame is compromised.. just that you are saving a little money now only to have headaches later.
Either way, good luck. You are on the right path.. an LX (or LC, either 200) is IMO one of the best vehicles ever built.
 
Joined
Apr 26, 2019
Messages
184
Location
Acadia
Up in the N.E. as well. If it's below 35 and cloudy they salt the earth.

I picked up a 2009 LC with 140k on it for about the same price. One owner and same area. The owner lived in Pound Ridge NY which is a stones throw from Greenwich. Insane overkill maintenance. The dealers paperwork was stuffed into the manual. It had 70% less rust than the pictures posted. Mainly on some bolt heads, KDSS, and general light surface stuff with the exception of the transmission guard that was completely rotted and the tow hitch area was in bad shape. Drop the factory guards and I bet you will see more rust/rot.

If your getting an older platform vehicle and want to keep it for a 10+ years expect to drop 2-3k replacing worn parts and fixing minor issues and maintenance. It might be under 1K but be ready for the higher side JIC. The LC platform is not cheap to maintain. Can someone remind me again how much oil for an oil change? More than a gallon?

My 2 pennies are stay away. Be patient. You'll find one.

If you can take a pencil and flake off chunks of metal and rust you have a problem.
 
Joined
Feb 27, 2018
Messages
926
Location
Alaska
I’m in Alaska. I agree that is a lot of rust, if you want to keep it for a long time. On another note how has salt not been banned in NE? We banned it in Alaska over 10 years ago. All the liberal tree huggers want to save the environment just not enough to deal with ice....
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Top Bottom