2006 Lexus LX470 ABS brake failure @140000k miles.

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Kamran Khan

Kamran Khan

10 Year
Joined
Jul 21, 2014
Threads
70
Messages
564
Location
Under my cruiser
Website
www.youtube.com
This morning I started the car and the ABS, VSC TRAC, VSC OFF, AND Brake lights all came on. I don't even use this car that much. Yesterday I took the car to a tire shop to mount studded tire, after tire swap I drove it for about 10 to 20 miles. I parked it last night and this morning all the warning lights appeared. I am getting C1223, C1251, C1252, C1256. Any suggestions on what should I look into? Don't really like replacing parts without proper diagnosis.
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Welcome to the club.
e9999

Thread 'Poll on total brake failure in 100 series'

There is some discussion going on of total and sudden braking failure in 100 series models, with reports of no -or essentially no- braking left at all a very short time (of the order of seconds/minutes) after dashboard warnings. That is scary stuff. It is, however, also difficult to find out how prevalent a problem that is based on just anecdotal evidence. So let's find out a bit more and see if we can get a better feel for how common a problem this really is. I'll just put out a few options in a quick poll here. Yes, yes, this is not scientific etc etc. But it may either help put...
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Many 100s get to 300K before the brake booster poops out, but some don't. I suspect you will be cracking open your wallet fairly far and buying a new OEM booster assembly. Many have found that replacing individual components (motor, accumulator, etc.) just leads to another issue 6 months later.
 
I will take my chances, specially after tariff imposition, I am not going to spend top dollar on the entire assembly. A month ago, I bought couple of parts from partsouq, total price for the parts was 130, FedEx charge 60 for delivery, and after delivery FedEx sent me another invoice of 63 dollars. After reaching out to Fedex to find out if it was a legit or scam invoice, they verified that its a legit invoice and told me that its the tariff fee.
 
There's no such thing as a coincidence. The shop must have done something in their tire swapping work. Unfortunately, it's on you to find what they ****ed up and prove it. I would say that chances are - it's some bull**** wiring thing or sensor thing that they messed up, as opposed to the unlikely coincidence that such a low mileage car's brake booster just happened to wear out the day after it was in a shop.. So considering that, a fix might not be that expensive after all. Have you looked underneath and under the hood to see if anything looks off?
 
Bet you live somewhere where its cold. Its your seals in your pump that are bad because they shrink when theyre cold and theyre also 25 years old now. Sure you can replace the dc motor in it, but youre going to have to pay for a new mc sometime or later.
 
At the moment I am trying to remove the assembly. It's hard to reach the nuts and bolts from the inside the cabin because there is a rubber sleeve that goes over the steering shaft. It has some weird clamps that I don't know how to remove. After I removal the assembly out, I will decide what to do next. 😢
 
Replace the entire master cylinder assembly.

Timmy the Toolman has an in depth YouTube tutorial.
 
I didn’t remove that. I only removed the black ABS controller box and then was able to get all four nuts with ¼” drive sockets, extensions and universal joint. It’s tight but I have big hands and was able to make it work.
 
TahoeZ said:
I didn’t remove that. I only removed the black ABS controller box and then was able to get all four nuts with ¼” drive sockets, extensions and universal joint. It’s tight but I have big hands and was able to make it work.
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Did it exactly what you told me and I successful in removing those 4 12mm nuts. Now I have to remove the brake oil pipes in the front.
 
This thing is almost 30 lbs. I did not take out any brake oil before removal and not even a drop of brake oil spilled inside the engine bay. The trick is to just leave the cap tight on the brake oil reservoir.
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I tested the motor using car battery and it didn't turn. After that, I decided to open it and found out that brushes are completely worn out. I am 100% sure that motor can be saved, if find the right replacement brushes for it. Anyway, I ordered Mr chinese motor from Amazon for 54 bucks and hopefully it will solve my problem. I am also making a video of it and will post the whole process of installing new motor etc to YouTube. Now I need to find OEM brake fluid.
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Kamran Khan said:
I tested the motor using car battery and it didn't turn. After that, I decided to open it and found out that brushes are completely worn out. I am 100% sure that motor can be saved, if find the right replacement brushes for it. Anyway, I ordered Mr chinese motor from Amazon for 54 bucks and hopefully it will solve my problem. I am also making a video of it and will post the whole process of installing new motor etc to YouTube. Now I need to find OEM brake fluid. View attachment 4042010View attachment 4042011View attachment 4042012
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Friend ordered probably the same amazon part.
Worked fine. Only PITA part was all the midwest corrosion he had to deal with.
 
Successfully fixed the problem. Scored a low miles brake booster assembly locally for 100 bucks, I swapped the motor with the one that originally came in car, and everything is working. A word of advise don't use techstream for bleeding brakes. Unless you have two people helping, you risk running brake booster dry of brake fluid. You also need to bleed the brake lines right next to the brake booster near the firewall before bleeding each wheel individually.
 
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