2003 LX470 Rehabilitation

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E

EastWaCruiser

Joined
Jun 12, 2021
Threads
4
Messages
40
Location
Washington State
I recently came upon a 2003 LX470 with exactly 200,000 miles on it posted for $6500. I went and picked it up, despite some obvious issues, with the intention to turn it into a daily driver. Some of the issues are:
Interior:
  • Climate/nav digitizer screen rarely works
  • Mark Levinson amp seems to be on its way out
  • Front seats are thrashed
  • Sunroof has been leaking for an indeterminate amount of time
  • Sunroof does not work, at all.
  • Headliner has obviously been damp for a long time above front passenger
  • Carpet also seems to have been damp for a long time
  • ???
Engine/mechanical
  • Timing belt needs to be done
  • Valve covers need replacing
  • AHC needs a tune up
  • ???
I picked this LX up from the Seattle area, and got the impression that the owners were not Landcruiser savvy, but enjoyed having a nice family SUV. There is a consistent service history, but they obviously used it hard and without second thought. But for the price, and considering the amount of work I am capable of doing on my own, I felt that it was a good buy.

My plan is to use this thread as a sort of journal to keep track of my work and maybe contribute to the knowledge base of 100 series maintenance. I've had a bad habit of using facebook groups for all my tech discussion, and look forward to having a page dedicated to this "build".
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On the drive home I noticed it was pulling a little to the left. Les Schwab was able to get me onto the alignment rack the same day, and found the front passenger wheel bearing to be incredibly loose. I took it home and found that the preload and lock nuts had come loose - seemingly due to the lock washer being too worn out. I inspected and repacked the bearings, brought it back, and found that the current alignment numbers are within spec.
Sometimes I like to document my work. For some reason it keeps me motivated and accountable.

 
I also found that it had an oily burning smell while driving. There seems to be a couple slow oil leaks, although never enough to leave a puddle. The most obvious was the valve covers - so I went ahead and replaced those with the felpro kit the other day. I found that most of my valve cover bolts were practically hand tight. I also found my #5 (or #3 I cant remember) spark plug to be very loose, and the associated ignition coil tube/body has a crack in it.
I plan on replacing the plugs and that coil pack, but for now I just tightened down the spark plug. While it wasn't noticeably misfiring or running rough before, I am convinced that it feels smoother and more powerful after torquing down the plug.
I wonder if this is indirectly connected to my p0420/p0430 codes? possibly r/t a rich condition d/t unburnt fuel. Something to consider maybe.

 
There are FAR higher quality how-to videos on youtube. but my ADHD can't stand watching someone sit in front of their landcruiser going on and on about toyota maintenance philosophy before actually getting to the point. So I suppose that could be my target audience.
 
excessive said:
Nice truck, looks like and clean rust wise. i would realy recommend using only OEM parts for your repairs, if you do you can easily get another 100 or 200k miles from her !
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I agree. I tend to go OEM unless it’s an easily serviceable part, which I guess in my mind is the case with valve cover gaskets. If it goes another few years that’s OK with me. My daily driver is an 80 series that I’ve coaxed along to almost 300,000 miles, I think largely due to consistent OEM maintenance.
 
The AISIN timing belt kit is in the mail, but in the meantime, I’m doing some more immediately gratifying work. This is the coil pack I found that has a crack in the body. It works well enough that I don’t really want to spend the $95 for a brand new one, fortunately the large wrecking yard near me has seemingly endless amount of them for cheapppp.
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And here’s the “new” ones off a low Mile 4runner
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More simple Work. My rearview mirror was kind of loose and floppy, so I took it apart to see how it worked. It looks like there is the base that sticks to the windshield, and then a little metal tab that sits in the base, that the mirror itself threads into.
The tab has a little bit of a bend to it, so I went ahead and flattened it out a little bit with a pair of pliers. My thinking was that the receiving threads would be more recessed into the mount, so that it would pull the mirror into the mount more firmly. Seems to have worked, my mirror doesn’t wiggle anymore.
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So looks like you've a nice find with 200K 03LX, and a good basic understanding wrenching.

I find the rear view mirrors, wiggle on most every replacement windshield. The number one reason: Installer don't have JIS screw drivers. They can't get those two very small screws sung enough and often damage the head with standard phillips-screw driver.

Word of caution. With a JIS phillips screw driver. They grab so well. It's easy to over tighten. Which can crack this thin after market windshields.

This is the very best set I've every had and they JIS.
Vessel ebay (1).webp

Vessel ebay (2).webp

Impact driver.
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Be very careful, where you use that forged brass hammer. For the wheel hub flange cone washers. A brass dowel is best.
The forged brass hammer, will damage steal.

One place they do damage. Is if used to pound rotor off front wheel hub.
I use plastic dead blow hammer on rotor tone ring, these days. Cheap and works very well and last for years and years. $12 from HF
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I don't even use these plastic head hammer, any longer. Since, when I run into a very stuck on rotor. That inner bolt, plastic formed around. Will damage tone ring.
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Rotor frt R&R 2.webp



BTW: The FSM shows the best way to remove cone washers, is with brass dowel.
Here's a hub flange that was glued on. Worst one I've ever had to remove


After that one that took so much effort. I changed up to air hammer, with brass tip. Works very well. I love it!
 
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2001LC said:
So looks like you've a nice find with 200K 03LX, and a good basic understanding wrenching.

I find the rear view mirrors, wiggle on most every replacement windshield. The number one reason: Installer don't have JIS screw drivers. They can't get those two very small screws sung enough and often damage the head with standard phillips-screw driver.

Word of caution. With a JIS phillips screw driver. They grab so well. It's easy to over tighten. Which can crack this thin after market windshields.

This is the very best set I've every had and they JIS.View attachment 4079758
View attachment 4079760
Impact driver.
View attachment 4079761
Be very careful, where you use that forged brass hammer. For the wheel hub flange cone washers. A brass dowel is best.
The forged brass hammer, will damage steal.

One place they do damage. Is if used to pound rotor off front wheel hub.
I use plastic dead blow hammer on rotor tone ring, these days. Cheap and works very well and last for years and years. $12 from HF
View attachment 4079764
I don't even use these plastic head hammer, any longer. Since, when I run into a very stuck on rotor. That inner bolt, plastic formed around. Will damage tone ring.View attachment 4079765
View attachment 4079763


BTW: The FSM shows the best way to remove cone washers, is with brass dowel.
Here's a hub flange that was glued on. Worst one I've ever had to remove


After that one that took so much effort. I changed up to air hammer, with brass tip. Works very well. I love it!
Click to expand...

Thank you! I consider myself a strong shade-tree mechanic. I did a full engine rebuild on my daily and swapped a 1uz into a 4runner but I also tend to do things like smack the hell out of a wheel hub with the wrong type of hammer until it works or something breaks. A Very polarizing resume…. I have needed to invest in a good pair of JIS drivers for ages now - I’ll look into that set. I also need to get a factory service manual.
 
EastWaCruiser said:
Thank you! I consider myself a strong shade-tree mechanic. I did a full engine rebuild on my daily and swapped a 1uz into a 4runner but I also tend to do things like smack the hell out of a wheel hub with the wrong type of hammer until it works or something breaks. A Very polarizing resume…. I have needed to invest in a good pair of JIS drivers for ages now - I’ll look into that set. I also need to get a factory service manual.
Click to expand...
Search here in mud. You'll find FSM pdf. you can down load!
For parts diagrams, use your VIN# at www.partsouq.com.
Note: Ordering auto parts from outside USA. You'll be billed; duty, tariff, fees bill. for 45% to 75% even 110% over cost of part and shipping.


Along with JIS. I find digital 1/4", 3/8" & 1/2" drive torque wrenches, are a very good investment.

You'll also want a fish scale, spec 9.5to15lb BWPL. Shoot for 12.5lb BreakWay PreLoad:
 
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Well done on the wheel bearing. I just did mine late last year, for the first time. Took embarrassingly longer than it should have, but I'm one of those DIY mechanics that has to research everything and clean or paint every reused part I touch :rolleyes:.

If you haven't yet, download the 100 FSM from the various places on 'Mud. You'll find that your experience on an 80 will serve you well, but there's plenty of 100-specific knowledge to be had. And stop using FB for tech! Here you'll find much more trustworthy info and collect your 'favorite' expert forum members. I use ChatGPT to crawl the relevant forums instead of the built-in search function. Works much better.
 
Starting the timing belt here in a few minutes. I would do it in my garage where it’s well lit and warm, but it’s currently occupied by my precious.
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And on either side of the Lexus or my other two money pits.
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I have a car addiction, but I at least managed to choose a partner who is unbothered by it.
 
Good on you for getting the antique plate for the Z. Tax loophole ;). Fun fact: you can legally buy a period WA license plate on eBay/CL/FBM and register it as your antique plate with no annual tab fees. Has to be from your car's model year. I had one on my 62 with a 1989 expiration tab.
 
Super77 said:
Good on you for getting the antique plate for the Z. Tax loophole ;). Fun fact: you can legally buy a period WA license plate on eBay/CL/FBM and register it as your antique plate with no annual tab fees. Has to be from your car's model year. I had one on my 62 with a 1989 expiration tab.
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That’s awesome, I didn’t know that
 
EastWaCruiser said:
Starting the timing belt here in a few minutes. I would do it in my garage where it’s well lit and warm, but it’s currently occupied by my precious.
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And on either side of the Lexus or my other two money pits.
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I have a car addiction, but I at least managed to choose a partner who is unbothered by it.
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But nothing parked on the street? I'd say you definitely have room for a few more cars.
 
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