2002 LX broken diff....we think

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Joined
Aug 21, 2003
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Location
Tijeras, NM
Hey fellas,

I have a question on behalf of a buddy who busted something in the front diff housing. This was a classic case of too much front wheel spin, they came down and grabbed traction. The rest is history.

Unfortunately, he is leaving it up to his mechanic to fix it. Let's not discuss the mechanic (merits, pros/cons or capability, etc) issue here.

Here are two questions for the masses:
1) if it's the R&P that's broken, what are his vendor options? I know that for my 80, I have a handful of vendors to purchase R&P from.

2) if it's the actual diff/carrier, then what are his options here? It seems to me that he ought to replace it with something stronger but what would that be? Would it be ARB or some other diff from a later model LX/LC series?

Anyway, my frustration with my buddy is that I wish he'd do a little more legwork :D He is still in the old LR mentaility - something breaks, then drop it off.

In case this happens again, what can be done to limp home? Removing the front axles don't seem to be as easy as the solid axles but I don't know anything about these rides.

Thanks for any suggestions.

Ali
 
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An ARB is the diff choice. It'll not cost that much more than a OEM diff. It's much stronger.

As for limp home? You know me? Don't know. :D
 
Yup, if it's the carrier, go with ARB whether he hooks up the locker or not.

If it's the R&P and he wants to stay with his current gearing, then go with OEM. Heck, do they even make aftermarket gears in the 4.3? If he's looking to change gears then there seems to be as many opinions on brands as there are options.
 
Yup, if it's the carrier, go with ARB whether he hooks up the locker or not.

If it's the R&P and he wants to stay with his current gearing, then go with OEM. Heck, do they even make aftermarket gears in the 4.3? If he's looking to change gears then there seems to be as many opinions on brands as there are options.

Isn't the front R&P 8" on the 100? How does it compare to the 80 front 8" R&P in specs? I'm thinking one can get aftermarket R&P's for the front. For the rear, you're stuck w/ OEM unless you do that 80 series carrier grafting thing.
 
Isn't the front R&P 8" on the 100? How does it compare to the 80 front 8" R&P in specs? I'm thinking one can get aftermarket R&P's for the front. For the rear, you're stuck w/ OEM unless you do that 80 series carrier grafting thing.

100's take the same 4.88 front 80-series gear.
 
Thanks for the inputs. HOw about the "limp home mode" question? Can you pull the axles out or perhaps simply remove the outer flange and stuff rags? This way, you can pull the front DS and simply drive home in RWD?
 
Thanks for the inputs. HOw about the "limp home mode" question? Can you pull the axles out or perhaps simply remove the outer flange and stuff rags? This way, you can pull the front DS and simply drive home in RWD?

On our trip to Pyeatt Draw (the trail's eaten two 100's so far....I'll be going with Off Road Mag in November...pray for me! :D ) a '99 exploded his front end.

They removed his front drive shaft, then the hub thingamajigs that had tapered washers that mated to the outside splines of the CV joints. This way only the wheels turned. The CV's and diff parts don't move. Here's a bad pic from the trip repair:
90016008-M.jpg

90016058-M.jpg
 
That's precisely what I was asking about; removing the drive flange I'm happy to hear that the design is similar to my 80 and a field bypass is doable.

If I was present at the same outing as my buddy, then that's the route I would've explored.

Thanks.
 
That's precisely what I was asking about; removing the drive flange I'm happy to hear that the design is similar to my 80 and a field bypass is doable.

If I was present at the same outing as my buddy, then that's the route I would've explored.

Thanks.


Shotts is correct...however you will need to lock the CDL to get power to the rear wheels.

Also I just happen to own a 4.30 OEM R&P set...PM me if you want to discuss it.
 
Thanks, I sent you a PM.

Curious, that 4.30 is a good compromise ratio for the 80s with 33"s. I don't suppose the rear of the 100 is compatible with my 80!

If so, I may just pick it up for the wife's 80.

Ali
 
Thanks, I sent you a PM.

Curious, that 4.30 is a good compromise ratio for the 80s with 33"s. I don't suppose the rear of the 100 is compatible with my 80!

If so, I may just pick it up for the wife's 80.

Ali


Well you'd have to talk to someone more educated about all this than me...you will need to use the 80-series carrier because of the 30-spline axles on the 80 vs 32 spline axles on the 100 (for starters).
 
OK, fine - I'll admit it. I'm Ali's buddy that had the diff broken over the weekend at the pipeline :(

I was just thinking though: since the truck is equipped with TRAC, should it not have prevented the very thing that happened? Once the front wheel was off the ground and spinning wildly, the traction control should have applied braking to that wheel. Apparently that didn't happen.

The truck is at a local mechanic's shop. He found a used diff, and installing it now. Stay tuned for progress updates!

Boris
2002 Lexus LX470
285 75 16 Revos
Slee Sliders
 
Welcome to a great forum, "buddy"!!! :flipoff2:
 
OK, fine - I'll admit it. I'm Ali's buddy that had the diff broken over the weekend at the pipeline :(

I was just thinking though: since the truck is equipped with TRAC, should it not have prevented the very thing that happened? Once the front wheel was off the ground and spinning wildly, the traction control should have applied braking to that wheel. Apparently that didn't happen.

The truck is at a local mechanic's shop. He found a used diff, and installing it now. Stay tuned for progress updates!

Boris
2002 Lexus LX470
285 75 16 Revos
Slee Sliders

Not so....TRAC is a dual stage system.

If LIGHT on the gas the truck will crawl and the power is switched around quickly. You'll not break anything if you're EZ on the gas.

If NOT LIGHT on the gas the vehicle will let you do the work. This helps in sand and mud. If TRAC kicked in here like in does in many vehicles you'd slow to a stuck stop. Your 100 will let you go full throttle and spinning if you desire. If you lose traction even at full throttle TRAC will not operate. This is good alowing the driver to have control.

There is a learning curve for TRAC. It took me about 1.5 years to become an expert at it. Here's an early blunder of mine. If was too hot on the gas and when traction was lost things kept spinning and I embarassed myself. I stopped, went very light on the gas and LET TRAC crawl the truck.

http://www.expeditionswest.com/adventures/2003/FR42_2003/fr42_climb2.wmv
 
Ali-This was the exact scenario with Jay's(Snook) 100 earlier this summer. A bit of wheel spin/traction/diff explosion. Go back and read the Deer Valley trip report for details.

http://www.tlcwagons.org/Norcal Wagons/Trip Blog/54941302-F99F-4BEC-9A86-C5EEA69FE21D.html

Our field fix was as described by Shotts. We pulled the drive plates, the front driveshaft, and drove it out.

Boris-I assume you know the ARB is the fix of choice for this well known problem of the 100 series. I hope you got a good deal on the used 100 diff, but what year was the donor?
 
Excellent read, thanks Drew.

Boris,
Do you have a CDL switch on the dashboard? I have to plead ignorant on these rigs! If Boris doesn't have this switch, is it the same install as in the 80s?

Interesting to note is that Boris has '02 LX which I *assumed* to have the stronger diff. Is this not so?

To Boris's defense, he is used to the traction control in the RR which works in light to moderate go peddle application. In the newer LR Disco-II vehicles, I've seen the TC control function quite well as long as the driver is NOT modulating the go pedal. It's a four channel system and you can clearly see the traction conrol working on all four wheels.

Ali
 
Carnage pictures

Got the truck back from the shop yesterday. The mechanic replaced the entire carrier with another one from a 20K mile Lexus. It was cheaper than taking out the gears and setting them up. Lesson learned - thank you guys. Next time, crawl up slowly and don't spin the wheels.

Boris
2006 Pipeline offroading - broken differential gears.webp
2006 Pipeline offroading - broken differential gears (1).webp
 
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