I went out to start my LX470 the other morning and it started no problems. About 30 secs later, no sputter no nothing just cut off. I went to restart it and it will crank but never start up. I checked all the fuses and replaced the battery and still nothing. Going to replace the fuel filter and check the fuel pump this weekend. Oh and also I tried two different OBD code readers and both said error link so I am not getting communication with the truck I checked the CIG fuse and it was good. I am on here asking if there is someone else that may have an idea of what is going on. I checked the older forums but none of them really matched what mine was doing. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Angie
2001 LX just died
- Thread starter akk2angel
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lookup the melted EFI relay / fusebox issue, it could be the problem
- Thread starter
- #4
Timing belt is brand new.
Try spraying starter fluid to intake as small puffs and crank to eliminate any fuel related issue.
Does it sound the same when cranking... Brand new timing belt but depends on the installation may be not perfect.
Does it sound the same when cranking... Brand new timing belt but depends on the installation may be not perfect.
This is a clue. Check routing of cam position wire. Possibly damaged from misrouting.
Is red blinking security light near radio going OFF when key is in ignition?
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- #8
It is still blinking when I put the key in. Why would it stop reading? I am using the same key...
That suggests your immobilizer is not working. It thinks you are a thief and will prevent vehicle from cranking. Likely the common burned EFI fuse port.
You may need the solution to this issue provided by @medtro in this thread....
I got the famous crank but not start immobilizer problem. I replaced the 20A EFI fuse with a 30A fuse and it started right away. However, it was a temporary fix. I had the same problem again 4 days later. This is what I did to get the engine started. It has been working with no problem for close to 4 weeks now, I thought I would share this with the group.
Fuse terminals: A, B
EFI relay terminals: C, D, E, F
With the EFI fuse in place and relay removed, I ran a wire from the battery positive terminal to terminal F, engine started with no problem. This tells me problem...
Fuse terminals: A, B
EFI relay terminals: C, D, E, F
With the EFI fuse in place and relay removed, I ran a wire from the battery positive terminal to terminal F, engine started with no problem. This tells me problem...
- Thread starter
- #10
I checked that fuse and it is normal. The inside of the port looks brand new. I even replaced the fuse and nothing changed. I have a locksmith coming out to reprogram my key and see if that worksThat suggests your immobilizer is not working. It thinks you are a thief and will prevent vehicle from cranking. Likely the common burned EFI fuse port.
You may need the solution to this issue provided by @medtro in this thread....
I got the famous crank but not start immobilizer problem. I replaced the 20A EFI fuse with a 30A fuse and it started right away. However, it was a temporary fix. I had the same problem again 4 days later. This is what I did to get the engine started. It has been working with no problem for close to 4 weeks now, I thought I would share this with the group.
Fuse terminals: A, B
EFI relay terminals: C, D, E, F
With the EFI fuse in place and relay removed, I ran a wire from the battery positive terminal to terminal F, engine started with no problem. This tells me problem...
@BullElk has given you the most likely problem and solution. Read the post he attached “immobilizer fix”. That will most likely get you going. I doubt the locksmith will be able to help. But if he does, please let ilia know.
Now I’m very curious.
Now I’m very curious.
You may have not read the information correctly. I didn't suggest calling Locksmith.
If your security light flashes during cranking, please try instructions in post #51. This is not a valid test if your security light does not flash during cranking.
That suggests your immobilizer is not working. It thinks you are a thief and will prevent vehicle from cranking. Likely the common burned EFI fuse port.
You may need the solution to this issue provided by @medtro in this thread....
I got the famous crank but not start immobilizer problem. I replaced the 20A EFI fuse with a 30A fuse and it started right away. However, it was a temporary fix. I had the same problem again 4 days later. This is what I did to get the engine started. It has been working with no problem for close to 4 weeks now, I thought I would share this with the group.
Fuse terminals: A, B
EFI relay terminals: C, D, E, F
With the EFI fuse in place and relay removed, I ran a wire from the battery positive terminal to terminal F, engine started with no problem. This tells me problem...
Sorry, the best thread is this one.....
EFI Relay Bypass Kit (Immobilizer Fix) for UZJ100/LX470
- Thread starter
- #14
I never insinuated that you told me to contact a locksmith. I appreciate all the help and I already contacted you regarding the bypass. Im sure that is going to be the solution. Thanks
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Chech the fuse on the drivers kickpanel fuse box
- Thread starter
- #18
I did not because the post was not super clear on how to set up the wire. I bought the bypasskit because if its a known issue then why not have it even though it may not be the problem. SO I had a locksmith comeout because I had canceled him before and because the OBD2 is not communicating he was not able to try to reprogram the existing key. Before I start tearing down my glove box to get to the ECU does anyone else have any ideas? I have checked all of the fuses and they are all good. I hooked up the bypass kit as per the instructions and still nothing. I tried to see if the OBD would communicate with the bypass kit on and still an error link. The reason why I was thinking it was the key fob was because about 4 months ago I got the Yota MD titanium housing for my fob and switched it out. I had cranked it and driven it with that new fob so I thought maybe that was the problem. But like I said before the locksmith was unable to connect through the port so he was no use. I replaced the fuel filter, got a new battery and still nothing has changed. The red light still blinks with the key in the ignition.
Thank you for the reply. I did check both fuse boxes and they are all good
If the red light is still blinking the vehicle isn't registering the transponder in the key fob. So I don't think it'll start. No how to get around that.....I thought the relay bypass would fix that. Guess not. I'm stumped (although that's not that uncommon for me)
Interesting. Did you inspect the EFI fuse slot for signs of burning or melting?... other than checking for blown fuse. Did you totally bypass the EFI fuse and go to the battery imstead?