Thanks for reminding me I ordered this part from IMPEX as I completely forgot about it. The order was suspended for like 5 days until I could get around to logging in and seeing what happened. Order placed Jan 19th, ETA is Feb 20th.
2000LC Replacement Charcoal Canister Options in 2025?
- Thread starter BamaHoo
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Thanks for reminding me I ordered this part from IMPEX as I completely forgot about it. The order was suspended for like 5 days until I could get around to logging in and seeing what happened. Order placed Jan 19th, ETA is Feb 20th.
Regarding adhesive tape to affix the vent air box to the side of the evaporator canister…
I would use 3M branded VHB 2 sided tape. 1/2” or 3/4” width is plenty wide. Very good stuff provides fully weatherproof bonding.
VHB stands for Very High Bond. If you get the surfaces good and clean, this stuff does not fail.
Clean parts contact points well with isopropyl alcohol and wipe dry. Use several strips of tape at the points of contact. Once you have the tape applied and the parts correctly oriented to each other, gently press them together. If the interface is good, apply pressure to hold them together for 30 seconds to 1 minute. Then allow parts to sit undisturbed for at least one hour. During this time, the adhesive bond will continue to get stronger.
Warmer weather is better for tape application and bonding. Undisturbed rest is the key to a very high bond when using this type of tape.
Just my suggestion for a one and done installation.
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Glad I could help! And good to know how long it'll take, fortunately this would be preventative maintenance for my truck and not an emergency repair.
Will definitely do this when I get the part, thanks for the detailed instructions!
I just weighed my OEM charcoal cannister, 77740-60390
previous info from IH8mud: new cannister 4 lbs 9 1/4 oz or 73 oz
my cannister: 5 lbs or 80 oz
So I am about 7 oz heavier than new. Not that big of a deal?
I am still chasing better mileage in ethanol stocked Kalifornia. Getting 10 mpg city, 15-16 highway.
previous info from IH8mud: new cannister 4 lbs 9 1/4 oz or 73 oz
my cannister: 5 lbs or 80 oz
So I am about 7 oz heavier than new. Not that big of a deal?
I am still chasing better mileage in ethanol stocked Kalifornia. Getting 10 mpg city, 15-16 highway.
Bad news y'all, the vacuum switching valve is out of production, IMPEX couldn't fulfill that part. Checked in the US too and it's also gone, not available. The Dorman version at Autozone is just over $70, with their in-house Duralast at $55.
This one is showing a possible delay of over a month. I'll still go ahead and order the canister, hopefully I can source the valve from a junkyard or something.
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I would not purchase anything from AutoZone, unless you’ve fallen in love with it. Dorman branded products are typically on the half scale of quality, and on the 133% scale of price. In my experience.
@TXCO had said that the OEM improved orientation switching valve came with his new charcoal canister. See post number 30 and 31.
If the OEM vacuum switching valve (with the more favorable port configuration) is unavailable, or extremely costly, I would reuse the original OEM item if possible. Clean and degrease it well with diluted dawn dishwashing soap and spray out the valve mechanism with MAF cleaner.
DO NOT USE BRAKE CLEANER… then reuse the original vacuum switching valve. Unless the original valve has mechanical damage, it is very likely that it will continue to function very well.
Just my thoughts about the quality of cheaply made aftermarket parts vs OEM reliability and function, considering the economy of the situation.
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I missed this part, thank you!
My mistake then, I thought that the valve was specific to the canister, and sold as a separate part. This eases my mind, and yeah if for whatever reason the canister doesn't come with the valve then I'll reuse the valve currently installed in the truck. Thank you!
To give an update on that IMPEX part, it said it was supposed to be delivered on Feb 20th and says "Processing". Have no idea what's going on. It's been "Processing" for weeks. Not sure if I ever want to order from IMPEX ever again.
You can send them a message and ask what is going on.
When logged in on the IMPEX Japan website, go to the message form in your personal account page on the website. They are open Monday through Saturday. Send them a message.
I have found they are very prompt to respond. Not always giving a favorable reply, but they respond quickly…
I'm in the same boat. My understanding from them was that they ordered the part and they're waiting for it to be delivered to their warehouse on March 20th.
Now they are saying "Mid-April or later" from the info they received from the supplier. While searching around online, I saw a web site called Amayama where it was listed for cheap and it gives the same estimate, also from Japan.
I'm not in any rush, and I'm hesitant to spend 2x-3x from a dealership. So I guess we wait.
I'm not in any rush, and I'm hesitant to spend 2x-3x from a dealership. So I guess we wait.
As of April 27th, Impex has the Camry/ES300 Charcoal Canister in stock for me. Haven't requested to have it shipped yet since I'm waiting on some other parts from them. Golden Week ends today in Japan so they'll probably get back to working on stuff tomorrow.
Mine finally arrived last week. Will be diving into it within the next few weeks.
Mine is supposed to be arriving today; the delay for me was that I added some other OEM stuff to the order (yay for mudlaps). Hopefully I can tackle this repair in the next couple of weeks; besides the canister I'm also going to replace my fuel filter and apply some aluminum heat shielding to the underside around the exhaust area closest to the gas tank. There was a post on another thread where someone did that to stop the heat from boiling the fuel in the tank; can't hurt to throw as many solutions as possible to the problem.
I did not dive into this. Super lazy. Maybe I will wait for @ChroniclerCruiser to go first!
@choyota got me motivated lol. I finally got around to doing the swap, and honestly it was probably one of the easiest repairs/mods I've done to this truck so far.
Repair is super straightforward. The hardest part was removing the old Charcoal Canister from the truck; there's a metal tab that's between the metal slides and the plastic of the charcoal canister. Using a flathead screwdriver, push the tab towards the metal (away from the canister) and the canister will slide out of its harness.
Once the canister is out, there's a couple of preparatory steps. First we'll have to remove the air filter that's attached to the side of the LC Canister. The filter is slotted and taped to the side of the canister, I used a thin knife to cut away the tape as much as possible before being able to slide the filter upwards and off of the canister. I also used Isopropyl alcohol to clean the exterior of the filter.
Next, I followed @TXCO instructions and used VHB double sided tape to attach the filter to the new 1997 ES300/Camry Charcoal canister. I made sure to put it with the 90` fitting facing upwards, matching it with how it's positioned on the OEM canister, at about 6 cm measured from the bottom of the canister. The VHB tape I used was 3M brand. Left it curing for about 6~ish hours, instructions say 1 hour minimum.
Next was repositioning some of the hoses, removing the bracket on the front of the 1997 ES300/Camry Charcoal Canister and transferring the LC Vapor Pressure Sensor so that everything would fit under the hood. Left is how the ES/Camry CC was originally, right is how I routed the hoses:
Repair is super straightforward. The hardest part was removing the old Charcoal Canister from the truck; there's a metal tab that's between the metal slides and the plastic of the charcoal canister. Using a flathead screwdriver, push the tab towards the metal (away from the canister) and the canister will slide out of its harness.
Once the canister is out, there's a couple of preparatory steps. First we'll have to remove the air filter that's attached to the side of the LC Canister. The filter is slotted and taped to the side of the canister, I used a thin knife to cut away the tape as much as possible before being able to slide the filter upwards and off of the canister. I also used Isopropyl alcohol to clean the exterior of the filter.
Next, I followed @TXCO instructions and used VHB double sided tape to attach the filter to the new 1997 ES300/Camry Charcoal canister. I made sure to put it with the 90` fitting facing upwards, matching it with how it's positioned on the OEM canister, at about 6 cm measured from the bottom of the canister. The VHB tape I used was 3M brand. Left it curing for about 6~ish hours, instructions say 1 hour minimum.
Next was repositioning some of the hoses, removing the bracket on the front of the 1997 ES300/Camry Charcoal Canister and transferring the LC Vapor Pressure Sensor so that everything would fit under the hood. Left is how the ES/Camry CC was originally, right is how I routed the hoses:
One thing to note is that I did end up trimming the hose that leads to the LC filter so that it was cut to length. Don't throw it away, it'll come handy in the next step.
With everything connected, I installed the canister into the truck. Nothing special here, just make sure to purchase beforehand the Universal Molded Rubber Line Hose that's listed earlier in the thread.
In order to better reach the fittings that are now at a 90` offset thanks to the new canister, I used the new hose on the thicker fitting, and the spare hose that was trimmed in the previous step. I also swung by O'reilly's and got some new hose clamps for peace of mind.
Another thing that I did for peace of mind was repurposing the bracket that was removed from the ES/Camry Charcoal Canister. I decided to drill a hole so that I could thread in the same bolt that the charcoal canister uses to attach to the body of the LC. To the bracket, I zip-tied the connectors so that they wouldn't be flip-flopping around while driving.
Here's a better angle of those zip ties:
I drove about 15 miles today with an italian tune-up or two thrown in there. No engine codes, no smell of gas. The real test for me will be on the next long-distance road trip. I still need to apply the heat shielding to the exhaust, but I'm hoping that this will offset a lot of the boiling fuel issues in the meantime.
Quick thanks to @TXCO and @Unrulykid for doing the heavy lifting with the part numbers needed, the investigation into the wiring diagrams, and pretty much setting up the groundwork for this replacement. You guys rock!
With everything connected, I installed the canister into the truck. Nothing special here, just make sure to purchase beforehand the Universal Molded Rubber Line Hose that's listed earlier in the thread.
In order to better reach the fittings that are now at a 90` offset thanks to the new canister, I used the new hose on the thicker fitting, and the spare hose that was trimmed in the previous step. I also swung by O'reilly's and got some new hose clamps for peace of mind.
Another thing that I did for peace of mind was repurposing the bracket that was removed from the ES/Camry Charcoal Canister. I decided to drill a hole so that I could thread in the same bolt that the charcoal canister uses to attach to the body of the LC. To the bracket, I zip-tied the connectors so that they wouldn't be flip-flopping around while driving.
Here's a better angle of those zip ties:
I drove about 15 miles today with an italian tune-up or two thrown in there. No engine codes, no smell of gas. The real test for me will be on the next long-distance road trip. I still need to apply the heat shielding to the exhaust, but I'm hoping that this will offset a lot of the boiling fuel issues in the meantime.
Quick thanks to @TXCO and @Unrulykid for doing the heavy lifting with the part numbers needed, the investigation into the wiring diagrams, and pretty much setting up the groundwork for this replacement. You guys rock!
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SWEET! Thanks for this! Now to duplicate these steps for my setup!