2” Lift Kit Recommendations?

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Aug 9, 2026
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91 FJ80. I’m sure this has been beaten to death, but most discussions I see is for 4”-6” lifts and 37”+ tire setups. I have 33”x10.50s and would keep this setup or 35x10.50 if I ever pursue a regear and all that. My factory suspension setup is very old and beaten up.

I plan on a rear swingout bumper at some point. Half normal driving and half offroading with family and camping weight. I’m in the SE so not much rock crawling moreso trail riding with a couple mountains trips/trails a year.

Been eyeing the Iron Man Stage 2 and 3 with medium weight springs. Not sure on nitro gas or foam cell if it’s worth the price. Looking for confirmation on iron man as a setup, stage 2 or 3, and nitro gas vs foam cell. Thank you all

IMG_9420.webp
 
Comfort for city driving is a concern which is what I am seeing negative feedback. When I’m offroad I air down to around 15-20psi and I’m sure any new suspension setup will be an improvement.

Also in the front is a iron man bumper and 12k lb winch
 
I have no personal experience with Ironman but after talking with several people for my use case, which is very similar to yours, I went with the Dobinson. The price point between the two are similar so that wasn't a major factor. I also waited till they had a sale (many of the companies do sales a few times a year and the next one probably won't be until Black Friday).

It will all come down to personal preference, it just so happened that a couple people in my area had switched to the Dobinson. One went from OME and the other from Ironman both due to wanting a larger lift. Both prefer the Dobinson over what they had before.

I got the stock height but after talking with @crikeymike, I determined that I would gain approx 1.5" to 1.75" after break-in/settling. I run 286/75/16 but have put 315s on the truck and they will clear even before the Dobinsons.

Good luck in whatever route you chose.
 
I'm pasting below my response to another similar suspension thread. I think the parts list below makes for a nice lift kit, a couple of the parts are weld-on but bolt-on options can be found if you don't have access to someone with welding tools and skills. Dobinsons springs get great reviews, you can sub other brands of shocks based on your personal preference and budget.

If I were putting together my own suspension kit for wheeling on 35's primarily from the Dobinsons catalog it would look something like this:

Front Springs: Dobinsons C97-146VT – 2.5″ Lift with 200LBS Constant Load, Dual Rate Long Travel
Front Shocks (budget option): Dobinsons GS45-912 - 4" Long Travel Twin Tube Shocks (670/390)
Front Shocks (premium option): Dobinsons MRA45-A912 - 4" Long Travel 3-Way Adjustable Monotube Shocks w/resi (667/401)
Front Bump Stop Extensions: Dobinsons 80 Series Front Bump Stop Extensions Kit (1.0-2.0 in) 1990-1997
Front Brake Line Extension: Toyota PNs 90947-A2016 and 96940-34605
Front Caster Correction: Eimkeith 80 Series Landcruiser Radius Arm Mounts (RAM)
Front Sway bar Disconnects: LCP Sway Bar Disconnects or remove front sway bar entirely.

Rear Springs: Dobinsons C97-147VT – 2.5″ lift with 440lbs constant load (lifts more with less weight), (variable dual rate long travel)
Rear Shocks (budget option): Dobinsons GS59-687 - 4" Long Travel Twin Tube Shocks (680/407)
Rear Shocks (premium option): Dobinsons MRA59-A687 - 4" Long Travel 3-Way Adjustable Monotube Shocks w/resi (674/420)
Rear Bump Stop Extensions: Dobinsons 80 Series Rear Bump Stop Extensions Kit (1.0-2.0 in) 1990-1997
Rear Brake Line Extension: Toyota PN 96940-34705
Rear Panhard Correction Bracket: Eimkeith 80 Series Landcruiser Panhard Correction Kit (PCK)
Keep factory rear sway bar to balance the flex / drive more flex into the front radius arms.

I'd run stock rubber bushings everywhere and stock length arms everywhere. You can reinforce your rear lower arms for bend-resistance or purchase upgraded lower arms that take the stock bushings depending on your personal preference.
 
91 FJ80. I’m sure this has been beaten to death, but most discussions I see is for 4”-6” lifts and 37”+ tire setups. I have 33”x10.50s and would keep this setup or 35x10.50 if I ever pursue a regear and all that. My factory suspension setup is very old and beaten up.

I plan on a rear swingout bumper at some point. Half normal driving and half offroading with family and camping weight. I’m in the SE so not much rock crawling moreso trail riding with a couple mountains trips/trails a year.

Been eyeing the Iron Man Stage 2 and 3 with medium weight springs. Not sure on nitro gas or foam cell if it’s worth the price. Looking for confirmation on iron man as a setup, stage 2 or 3, and nitro gas vs foam cell. Thank you all

View attachment 4206523
IronMan rides harsh compared to dobinson. My rig came with IronMan and replaced it with 1.75" dobinson that net me 2.25" unloaded w/315s on stock wheels.
 
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I'm pasting below my response to another similar suspension thread. I think the parts list below makes for a nice lift kit, a couple of the parts are weld-on but bolt-on options can be found if you don't have access to someone with welding tools and skills. Dobinsons springs get great reviews, you can sub other brands of shocks based on your personal preference and budget.

If I were putting together my own suspension kit for wheeling on 35's primarily from the Dobinsons catalog it would look something like this:

Front Springs: Dobinsons C97-146VT – 2.5″ Lift with 200LBS Constant Load, Dual Rate Long Travel
Front Shocks (budget option): Dobinsons GS45-912 - 4" Long Travel Twin Tube Shocks (670/390)
Front Shocks (premium option): Dobinsons MRA45-A912 - 4" Long Travel 3-Way Adjustable Monotube Shocks w/resi (667/401)
Front Bump Stop Extensions: Dobinsons 80 Series Front Bump Stop Extensions Kit (1.0-2.0 in) 1990-1997
Front Brake Line Extension: Toyota PNs 90947-A2016 and 96940-34605
Front Caster Correction: Eimkeith 80 Series Landcruiser Radius Arm Mounts (RAM)
Front Sway bar Disconnects: LCP Sway Bar Disconnects or remove front sway bar entirely.

Rear Springs: Dobinsons C97-147VT – 2.5″ lift with 440lbs constant load (lifts more with less weight), (variable dual rate long travel)
Rear Shocks (budget option): Dobinsons GS59-687 - 4" Long Travel Twin Tube Shocks (680/407)
Rear Shocks (premium option): Dobinsons MRA59-A687 - 4" Long Travel 3-Way Adjustable Monotube Shocks w/resi (674/420)
Rear Bump Stop Extensions: Dobinsons 80 Series Rear Bump Stop Extensions Kit (1.0-2.0 in) 1990-1997
Rear Brake Line Extension: Toyota PN 96940-34705
Rear Panhard Correction Bracket: Eimkeith 80 Series Landcruiser Panhard Correction Kit (PCK)
Keep factory rear sway bar to balance the flex / drive more flex into the front radius arms.

I'd run stock rubber bushings everywhere and stock length arms everywhere. You can reinforce your rear lower arms for bend-resistance or purchase upgraded lower arms that take the stock bushings depending on your personal preference.
Excellent writeup. Thank you very much.

So you wouldn’t replace any trailing arms, panhard bar, etc just replace the bushings? There is no worry about damaging any stock parts with heavy off-roading and not needing to upgrade?

And unless I missed it do you recommend any specific steering stabilizer?
 
Excellent writeup. Thank you very much.

So you wouldn’t replace any trailing arms, panhard bar, etc just replace the bushings? There is no worry about damaging any stock parts with heavy off-roading and not needing to upgrade?

And unless I missed it do you recommend any specific steering stabilizer?
Replace the bushings as-needed, no need to replace them if they're not worn out.

Any steering stabilizer will do. Rear lower control arms will eventually get bent if you drag them over rocks, but they'll hold up to mild off-roading without issue.

I also forgot to include front swaybar link extensions which are required if you keep the front swaybar installed.
 
Personal preference. Buy what you can afford.
The allure of iron man was getting all new everything for the price of coils and shocks from another company

Dobinsons appears to be roughly the same price if I only get coils and springs and stabilizer and replace bushings in existing arms

But I don’t think it matters much for a 2” lift as far as upgrading arms
 
I'm pasting below my response to another similar suspension thread. I think the parts list below makes for a nice lift kit, a couple of the parts are weld-on but bolt-on options can be found if you don't have access to someone with welding tools and skills. Dobinsons springs get great reviews, you can sub other brands of shocks based on your personal preference and budget.

If I were putting together my own suspension kit for wheeling on 35's primarily from the Dobinsons catalog it would look something like this:

Front Springs: Dobinsons C97-146VT – 2.5″ Lift with 200LBS Constant Load, Dual Rate Long Travel
Front Shocks (budget option): Dobinsons GS45-912 - 4" Long Travel Twin Tube Shocks (670/390)
Front Shocks (premium option): Dobinsons MRA45-A912 - 4" Long Travel 3-Way Adjustable Monotube Shocks w/resi (667/401)
Front Bump Stop Extensions: Dobinsons 80 Series Front Bump Stop Extensions Kit (1.0-2.0 in) 1990-1997
Front Brake Line Extension: Toyota PNs 90947-A2016 and 96940-34605
Front Caster Correction: Eimkeith 80 Series Landcruiser Radius Arm Mounts (RAM)
Front Sway bar Disconnects: LCP Sway Bar Disconnects or remove front sway bar entirely.

Rear Springs: Dobinsons C97-147VT – 2.5″ lift with 440lbs constant load (lifts more with less weight), (variable dual rate long travel)
Rear Shocks (budget option): Dobinsons GS59-687 - 4" Long Travel Twin Tube Shocks (680/407)
Rear Shocks (premium option): Dobinsons MRA59-A687 - 4" Long Travel 3-Way Adjustable Monotube Shocks w/resi (674/420)
Rear Bump Stop Extensions: Dobinsons 80 Series Rear Bump Stop Extensions Kit (1.0-2.0 in) 1990-1997
Rear Brake Line Extension: Toyota PN 96940-34705
Rear Panhard Correction Bracket: Eimkeith 80 Series Landcruiser Panhard Correction Kit (PCK)
Keep factory rear sway bar to balance the flex / drive more flex into the front radius arms.

I'd run stock rubber bushings everywhere and stock length arms everywhere. You can reinforce your rear lower arms for bend-resistance or purchase upgraded lower arms that take the stock bushings depending on your personal preference.
If I wanted to stick with 33s would this be an acceptable setup? Roughly $1700 vs $2800 for your budget setup. This is after I add bushings, dampener, and sway bar drops

 
Search for the dobinsons 222/223 thread, very useful info there. That's what I went with, but at stock-ish weight you will not get the advertised 1.75" lift, it's more like 2-3". My experience has been great. Super comfortable with the 3 way adjustable shocks.
 
If I wanted to stick with 33s would this be an acceptable setup? Roughly $1700 vs $2800 for your budget setup. This is after I add bushings, dampener, and sway bar drops

The setup I spec'd out uses the longer free length springs and long travel shocks, which necessitates extended brake lines. The springs are variable dual rate (meaning they get stiffer as they compress more) to try and preserve suspension flex and ride quality especially in a lighter-weight build.

The typical ~2" kits use stiffer stock-length springs and stock length shocks. You'll get increased ride height, improved load carrying capacity, and reduced "usable" suspension travel compared to the stock suspension because of the stiffer springs. The basic kits should work, but it's easy to accidently order the wrong springs and end up with way too much lift. I recommend calling the company you're planning to order from and do your best to provide accurate weights for added accessories front and rear so you don't end up with the wrong springs.

I haven't priced out all the different options, and my personal truck is on stock-height Old Man Emu suspension and 265 75 R16 tires and I love the way it drives. Sorry for calling you into an expensive setup!
 
The setup I spec'd out uses the longer free length springs and long travel shocks, which necessitates extended brake lines. The springs are variable dual rate (meaning they get stiffer as they compress more) to try and preserve suspension flex and ride quality especially in a lighter-weight build.

The typical ~2" kits use stiffer stock-length springs and stock length shocks. You'll get increased ride height, improved load carrying capacity, and reduced "usable" suspension travel compared to the stock suspension because of the stiffer springs. The basic kits should work, but it's easy to accidently order the wrong springs and end up with way too much lift. I recommend calling the company you're planning to order from and do your best to provide accurate weights for added accessories front and rear so you don't end up with the wrong springs.

I haven't priced out all the different options, and my personal truck is on stock-height Old Man Emu suspension and 265 75 R16 tires and I love the way it drives. Sorry for calling you into an expensive setup!
No dude I appreciate the advice very much so. You single handily convinced me into dobinsons. It’s just that the $1800 tag is easier to swallow than $3k. I was budgeting for $2k for the lift as I still need a swing out bumper as all haha
 
I did find
Search for the dobinsons 222/223 thread, very useful info there. That's what I went with, but at stock-ish weight you will not get the advertised 1.75" lift, it's more like 2-3". My experience has been great. Super comfortable with the 3 way adjustable shocks.
using that resource page I found the exit off-road page that sells dobinsons and explains exactly what you need for different setups. Thank you for the recommendation
 
You may want to err on the "too soft" side on the springs and buy some "trim packers" (what the aussies call them, or "coil spring spacers" here in the US) to increase ride height a little without stepping up to a too-stiff lift spring. You can get trim packers up to 30mm (1 3/16") from the major suspension manufacturers and if you want to go larger than that you can find them from less reputable sellers on ebay. Stock-height replacement springs from Dobinsons may yield ~1" plus a trim packer gets you to 2" with a spring that's only slightly stiffer than stock. Or you can get some ebay 50mm (2") spacers and run your stock springs for the softest / flexiest ride.
 
I wanted to stay relatively stock, but improve ride quality and help with shock fade on long washboard roads. I went with Dobinson's progressive rate "stock height" springs and their IMS shocks and could not be more pleased. I yielded about 1"-1.5" over stock once the springs settled and the ride has been awesome, especially when loaded with gear. I don't have bumpers and other armor, totally stock.
 
I did 3" icon progressive springs that were used, and lower than 3", a set of bilstein 5100's, dobinsons sway bar drop kit, eimkeith panhard correction bar, slee brake lines and a set of 285/75-16 Falken RT's on stock wheels. I'm very happy.

It rides perfectly and wheels even better.

 
With 2" lift, no need to correct your casters nor any adjustments to rears. No need to buy adjustable panhard or adjustable rear lower/upper arms.
Spend your $ on extended steel braided brake lines, replace those 30yr old worn-out bushings and due preventive maintenance

Then go out and enjoy it !!
 
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