Build 1st FJ40, '76 - SMOKEY - Puttin’ her Back Together

[Vae Victus]

I just finished mine after almost 7 years and flooded four feet deep and torn completely apart twice.
I can tell you that once you get it into paint and start putting it back together you really start to have fun.
Keep pecking away at it and sweat the details. Totally worth it in the end.

Yikes! Man that must have been devastating. It's better than a friend if mine who finished his and then passed away.... He truly didn't get another chance.

I don't know if I'd do another truck from the ground up again. Maybe after I retire I would.

 

[Vae Victus]

Yep, I was "working from home"...

That's great! Heck you could've done a big part of a rebuild in that time. I guess that'll have to wait until phase 2 of Covid.

 

[Rainman]

Scott's just trying to make me feel better about my '32 build. It's technically in year 12. Started with the Baby Hemi in March of '09. It'll be done in a month or two from now. Loooong time coming'.

 

[Vae Victus]

Scott's just trying to make me feel better about my '32 build. It's technically in year 12. Started with the Baby Hemi in March of '09. It'll be done in a month or two from now. Loooong time coming'.

And to think of all the s***e you’ve given me....

 

[Vae Victus]

I completed the left fender rebuild. Again. 3rd time. First two times I just couldn't get it flat and level. I was spot-filling in too many holes, warping it too much, and making the metal too thin by having to over work it to try and get it flat. But I learned a lot!

I saw a great technique by a guy on YouTube [runs off to look him up]...oh yeah, Fitzee. Look him up. You basically tack a panel over the hole you want to fill, about 15% larger than the hole, and then cut the panel out a bit at a time using a very thin cutoff wheel at a 45° angle to allow the panel to fit into place with almost no gap. It's almost TIG-weldable at that point. It works soooo much better than the old way of cutting out a template, fitting it in place for an hour, clamping it in with a whole bunch of butt-weld clamps and then welding a 1/16 to 3/32" gap.

I also attached the blinker mount that I had to make from scratch since I lost the original. It was crap full of rust anyway.

 

[Vae Victus]

Final product. I quit fussing over the little tiny divots and called it “done”. A little filler-type paint and it looks really good for pre-paint.

 

[Vae Victus]

Now I am committed to the next phase. And that phase is engine reassembly. I have not been working on this because I am completely intimidated by this. I need a good guide and someone walking me through the steps.

I know I can do it I just know there are a lot of details that I haven’t done it so I’ve been hesitant to begin. I don’t think there are as many steps as I think there are in one part of my brain.

So, what’s the best guide, and where do I begin? This is current situation.

 

[djcfj40]

When I did mine ,I got all the metal work done and epoxy primed everything. Then used sprayable filler and block sanded until all the fingerprints on my hands were gone. The sprayable filler is awesome. No shrinkage and made the finished product so much straighter and nicer

 

[djcfj40]

Shifting gears onto engine reassembly.
I think you could get a dozen different answers when it comes to order of assembly. I made a list of everything that needed doing and then broke it down into systems. Fuel system ,electrical, cooling ....
if your valve lash adjustment is completed and your distributor is installed in the correct phasing, I’d finalize the valve cover , put a couple of squirts of oil in the cylinders and install spark plugs. At least get them sealed up,then pick a system. When you reach a stumbling block,write it down and move onto something else until you can solve whatever the stumbler was.
Just my .02
Lists are your friend..lol

 

[Vae Victus]

Shifting gears onto engine reassembly.
I think you could get a dozen different answers when it comes to order of assembly. I made a list of everything that needed doing and then broke it down into systems. Fuel system ,electrical, cooling ....
if your valve lash adjustment is completed and your distributor is installed in the correct phasing, I’d finalize the valve cover , put a couple of squirts of oil in the cylinders and install spark plugs. At least get them sealed up,then pick a system. When you reach a stumbling block,write it down and move onto something else until you can solve whatever the stumbler was.
Just my .02
Lists are your friend..lol

Thanks @djcfj40 - I'll do that.

 

[Vae Victus]

As suggested, after asking in a separate thread, I created the list for this point forward.
Here is what I have.

So I guess I should propose my own answer, and thus attack in this order:

1. Harmonic nut torque to 116-145ft-lbs
2. Valve lash
3. Spark Plugs after dropping a bit of lube in the cylinders.
4. Seat distributor
5. Manually rotate the engine a couple rotations to distribute the lube
6. Replace the leaky freeze plugs noted when I flushed the block
7. Bolts for the valve cover
8. Water system
   1. replace the rubber water pump seal that is already cracking.
   2. Put on warerbhoses and clamps
   3. Radiator will wait until a bit later after belts are installed(?)
9. Belts
10. Vintage A/C
    1. fit it up before body goes to paint
11. Modify alternator bracket as needed (larger alternator being used)
12. Fuel lines
13. Carb
14. Master and clutch cylinders
15. Brake booster (after paint)
16. Brake lines (some after paint)
17. Fluids
    1. Oil & filter
    2. Transmission
    3. Transfer cases
    4. Coolant
18. Rig an engine starter test system
    1. Temp battery
    2. Temp wiring
    3. Temp fuel
19. Wiring pre body
20. Put body back on post paint
21. Wiring post body
22. Gauges rebuilt and replaced
23. Fuel tank and lines
24. Seats and belts
25. All weatherstripping seals around doors, including windows, top
26. Window reinstallation
27. Door and door glass assembly
28. Steering wheel refurbish
29. Power assist steering (the electric assist unit, not the full hydraulic type)
30. Heating lines inside cabin
31. Pedal bucket
32. Headlights
33. Hood
34. Doors
35. Top
36. Exhaust system

 

[Vae Victus]

Possibly the most expensive item per ounce ever purchased for my rebuild. But is is well made!

Thanks @Racer65

EDIT: And had to send it back. I didn't read - this is for older models. Sigh. It was a really nice piece too.

 

[Vae Victus]

Marvel mystery oils added to valves via oral syringe thru spark holes.

Finished adjusting the cold valve-lash last night. Note distribution position and timing mark

Ordered spark plugs.

Painted the TDC mark and the “dot” so I could find them easier.

Working on a tool to tighten the crank nut.

Trying to find the valve cover gasket.

 

[Rainman]

Trying to find the valve cover gasket.

It's in there on the shelf in that box... Under the other box.

 

[Vae Victus]

How to tighten the FJ40 crankshaft nut:

Thought I was smart using a 2x4. Turns out I’m not. You have to go against the grain.

So used a 2x8. Did the trick lickity split.
Measurements in the photo below for anyone needing this in the future.

• 2.5” hole saw
• 46mm socket
• 4” bolts. My holes in the pulley were tapped out to 9mmx1.25 so I used 3/8x16.
• Use washers!
• Center to center on the bolts was 86.21mm

Tightened the crank nut to 130-ish foot lbs.

 

[Rainman]

Way to go Scott! It only took you several days to get that one nut tightened... Wait. That's about right for the "forever project".

You all know I'm just poking at him. We are buddies, or at least we were...

 

[Vae Victus]

... hey AND painted....

 

[middlecalf]

“Find some solid metal to go from” - Fitzee

I wonder if he even uses welding glasses?

 

[Vae Victus]

Quick update: dropped in the spark plugs after gapping. 15 36 24. Too young, too old, just right.

Found several more 6mm bolts sheared off in the top that was in storage. Ordering a Time-Sert kit instead of Helicoil, as I read that the smaller Helicoils don't hold as well as the Time-Sert, but DANG they love their tools over there ($75 for a 6mm kit vs $13 for a Helicoil, or $26 if you are splurging).

Also worked to fit up the panel tire carrier. Ran into issues. See post from today in this old thread I started in 2013. Ha, little did I know.

And FINALLY - I discovered that you can resize the photos after uploading them now, and that you can drag and drop the photos in. Man, I've been doing it the hard way for the past while, not realizing that with the website upgrade, you could do that easier. So, I've been sizing down all those huge photos I've been posting in old posts. Sorry about that!

 

[Vae Victus]

Progress on the list, shown below:

1. DONE Harmonic nut torque to 116-145ft-lbs
2. DONE Valve lash
3. DONE Spark Plugs after dropping a bit of lube in the cylinders.
4. Seat distributor
5. DONE Manually rotate the engine a couple rotations to distribute the lube
6. Replace the leaky freeze plugs noted when I flushed the block
7. Bolts for the valve cover
8. Water system
   1. CHECKED - IT'S OK FOR NOW: replace the rubber water pump seal that is already cracking.
   2. Put on water hoses and clamps
   3. Radiator will wait until a bit later after belts are installed(?)
9. Belts
10. Vintage A/C
    1. fit it up before body goes to paint
11. Modify alternator bracket as needed (larger alternator being used)
12. Fuel lines
13. Carb
14. Master and clutch cylinders
15. Brake booster (after paint)
16. Brake lines (some after paint)
17. Fluids
    1. Oil & filter
    2. Transmission
    3. Transfer cases
    4. Coolant
18. Rig an engine starter test system
    1. Temp battery
    2. Temp wiring
    3. Temp fuel
19. Wiring pre body
20. Put body back on post paint
21. Wiring post body
22. Gauges rebuilt and replaced
23. Fuel tank and lines
24. Seats and belts
25. All weatherstripping seals around doors, including windows, top
26. Window reinstallation
27. Door and door glass assembly
28. Steering wheel refurbish
29. Power assist steering (the electric assist unit, not the full hydraulic type)
30. Heating lines inside cabin
31. Pedal bucket
32. Headlights
33. Hood
34. Doors
35. Top
36. Exhaust system