1hz steering pump failure nightmare

[crushers]

there is NO WAY IN HELL that you will break the bolt, the socket? maybe. bend the bar, maybe.
but remember, you are not "cranking over the engine" you are touching the starter.
make sure the fuel is shut off, wire disconnected to the pump,
click, click, click not crank crank crank ... get the idea. just kiss the key.

 

[pominoz87]

Sorry I meant break as in the bolt come loose amd that the crank would turn just enough for the valves to hit the pistons as the belt is off. Even in 5th and handbreak on there seems to be a lot of slack in the drivetrain, just want to make sure that the point where it seems to 'bite' is the drive train resistance not valve resistance!I will try the starter in the morning☺ thanks

 

[roscoFJ73]

Oh ,have you removed the timing belt for the cam etc?
If so ,then you will have a problem with pistons hitting valves.

The crank bolt should have been done 1st and is the last thing to go back on.

 

[pominoz87]

Yes, belt was taken off first after I aligned it all at bdc, following the manual although I realised pretty soon after it would be a lot less of a headache to take the bolt out first, I hope I haven't done any damage I only turned the crank a few degrees either way.

Anyway bolt is now off, I fabricated steel bracket sort of like the Toyota tool to hold the pulley still out of 1\4" flat stock worked perfect and olt came loose with a cheater pipe what a pain in the rear that was!

The gears are better than I thought but the idler gear and crank gear are chewed up a bit in areas. Crank actually seems the worst I've attached pics but was very dark when I was done so i ll take some more in the day. Lots of mess in the bottom of the timing cover of course..

Now in the manual it says these have to get replaced as a set, I've priced up the two gears which is pricey enough, do you think I can get a way with just idler and crank?any tips on replacing the gears? Im hoping not too touch the injection pump as that looks a bit of a pain. With the gears is it safe to mark up where they are at now in relation to each other for when I refit?

Once the gears are sorted I will drop the pan and clear out what I can and then do two oil changes unless there is a better way of flushing the system?

 

[roscoFJ73]

Anyway bolt is now off, I fabricated steel bracket sort of like the Toyota tool to hold the pulley still out of 1\4" flat stock worked perfect and olt came loose with a cheater pipe what a pain in the rear that was!

?

I did it the same way the 1st time when the engine was on the ground.I had to put 200lbs on the bar to move the bolt Good to see it come off.
You wont have done any harm to the pistons or valves

 

[pominoz87]

Just about ready to fit new gears, vacuum gear $130 from the stealer, they wanted $250 for the steering gear!!ended up buying used unit with gear on for $190. Crank gear $50 new, ider $50 used.

Do I need any special type of puller? I am pulling idler and crank gear and replacing front crank, cam and injection seal. Anything I'm missing? Thanks

 

[ticoman]

The mystery remains, what caused it in the first place.If you do not find the cause, is it likely to happen again? How did the bearings in the p. steering pump feel? the vacuum pump? anything any where?The same thing obviously happened to my engine. Has anyone else experienced this issue?

 

[pominoz87]

Pretty sure the steering pump failed has been leakin drops for a few weeks and kept topping up but hasn't been much' maybe the shaft has seized and locked up. It doesn't spin freely but I'm not sure if it should?

 

[pominoz87]

Gears changed all good, everything lined up and timed etc. Noticed a bit of slack in belt so went to torque tensioner bolt and p.o.s torque wrench didn't do it's job, lovely snapped bolt to deal with now FML! How would u guys go about it? Drill into and reverse out ?

 

[crushers]

yes ...

 

[ticoman]

Center punch first, then drill then easy out. normally they are not that tight and come out pretty easy.

 

[pominoz87]

Bolt popped out nicely with easy out, all back together now and seems to be running fine. I pulled the oil pan for good measure what a pain that was, getting the back end out was a nightmare ended up removing the bracket between it and the transmission and then the sway bar, should have done the BEBs but I really needed it back on the road to be honest.

Glad I did because the pan was full of metal shards and debris from the gears. Anyway, as you said the mystery remains because after pulling the pump apart I really can't see a lot wrong with it apart from the gear. The shaft turns relatively freely and can't see any obvious problems inside of it. It had been leaking for months before slightly but i cant see how that has caused this! Only thing I picked up on is perhaps the flow control little mesh filter at the top end seems a bit dirty?

So although I'm happy to have her back on the road in the back of my mind I really would like to know what the hell caused all my gears to get mashed lol. Thanks a lot for everyone's help - couldn't have done it with out the forum.

 

[Diesel73]

Update on an old post, I am in the process of a full nut bolt restoration on a 94 HZJ75. The engine was running fine before it was bare chassis. History on this is questionable but thinking it has roughly 380000klm. It apparently had an engine rebuild around 360000 but no receipts to back this up. I found the power steering pump gear failed but after removing timing case and investigating I think the vacuum pump gear has caused the failure. Hard facing has let go and started chewing mating gears. Also the idler shaft is worn. Oil pump gerotor gear is fine and main engine internals are fine. Just metal teeth in sump. So thinking it was a hard face issue on the vacuum pump. So all new gears and confidant to put on a dyno.