HZJ60 Guy
Tank Buster
hdj105 said:
This guy is a DOG! Man, you get all the good stuff!
Go ahead, grovel in all that COOL stuff youve got!
PICTURES!
TB
1HZ ---> HJ60
- Thread starter VTCruiser
- Start date
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This guy is a DOG! Man, you get all the good stuff!
Go ahead, grovel in all that COOL stuff youve got!
PICTURES!
TB
- Thread starter
- #42
I made it!
I got into clemson monday night around 8:30 after a straight 13.5 hr drive down the east coast. I stopped twice to tinkle and get DIESEL (gotta break the habit of say "gas"
). I averaged about 70-75 mph on the interstate and got between the 20-23 mpg loaded down with all my crap. I was VERY pleased with the motor but I have some minor issues with the 190k mile truck it is in....
FIRST (long) DRIVE REPORT:
1) First of all there is a vibration over 55mph some where in the driveline (not felt in the steering wheel) during the "load transition" between acceleration and decelleration. If i am off the throttle it only hums a little (not too bad, but there) and when I am on the throttle heavy it only hums too. But when the throttle is depressed just a little it really vibrates badly (especially over 55mph). I think the first step is to replace the U-joints and then maybe the the driveshaft (rusty). thoughts?
2) Also, there is a spuratic clunking in the left front end when making tight turns at slow speeds. A lot of things are probably worn up there, but the truck tracks pretty straight on the highway no wonder or pulling, pretty tight steering, but the alignment appears to be off slightly. The wheel is turned maybe 5 degrees right while driving straight.
Thats all folks! ANy suggestions regarding these problems? The vibration is a big one, i can live with the clunking for a while. Considering i had about 2 weeks to get it driveable (had it inspected the day before leaving
) i can't be happier with it. Now all i need is a radio and A/C....damn it's hot down here.....
I got into clemson monday night around 8:30 after a straight 13.5 hr drive down the east coast. I stopped twice to tinkle and get DIESEL (gotta break the habit of say "gas"
). I averaged about 70-75 mph on the interstate and got between the 20-23 mpg loaded down with all my crap. I was VERY pleased with the motor but I have some minor issues with the 190k mile truck it is in....FIRST (long) DRIVE REPORT:
1) First of all there is a vibration over 55mph some where in the driveline (not felt in the steering wheel) during the "load transition" between acceleration and decelleration. If i am off the throttle it only hums a little (not too bad, but there) and when I am on the throttle heavy it only hums too. But when the throttle is depressed just a little it really vibrates badly (especially over 55mph). I think the first step is to replace the U-joints and then maybe the the driveshaft (rusty). thoughts?
2) Also, there is a spuratic clunking in the left front end when making tight turns at slow speeds. A lot of things are probably worn up there, but the truck tracks pretty straight on the highway no wonder or pulling, pretty tight steering, but the alignment appears to be off slightly. The wheel is turned maybe 5 degrees right while driving straight.
Thats all folks! ANy suggestions regarding these problems? The vibration is a big one, i can live with the clunking for a while. Considering i had about 2 weeks to get it driveable (had it inspected the day before leaving
) i can't be happier with it. Now all i need is a radio and A/C....damn it's hot down here.....
- Thread starter
- #43
Ok, now to fill in the blanks about the final stages of the swap….
COOLING: As mentioned previously (I think....) I had to cut and turn the lower rad port so it wouldn't get in the way of the fan, so I was able to save the 2H radiator. Next up was the shroud. I battled with the old one for a while trying to modify it (too much time, really) before deciding to make one from scratch. So I did and it came out damn well if i may say so
Other water lines and heater lines were easy enough, just comparing manuals and making sure things were going in the in and out the out. I got both front and rear heaters working and the motor keeps very cool on the road. A couple mountain passes got pretty warm but no where near over-heating.
VACUUM: This was very easy. It was just more comparing manuals and using common sense to make sure everything that needed vacuum got it. Everything in this area works the 4WD, the clutch and brake boosters, etc.
PEDALS: The throttle was covered below, and the brakes were never touched. The clutch created a whole new set of problems all of which were addressed. The slave and clutch lever was located on the opposite side of the bell housing on the 1HZ combo. I tracked down a 70 series slave which bolted right up, and use Napa brake line (about 4ft.) to connect it to the master. After some bleeding (of the hydraulics, that is) all pedals were functional.
WIRING: the alternator and starter were pretty easy. The starter cable was just extended to get to the opposite side (no push-button needed….yet
). The plugs were just swapped for the alternator (three wires to three wires), and it was plugged in, great charge. I also needed a new battery (one terminal was fawked on one of them). The glows were wired to a momentary toggle from a 24V source (right off the second battery). The switch is mounted on the dash on the left of the wheel where the rear defroster was. The cut-off solenoid was wired to a regular toggle, just to left of the glow switch on the dash, also from a 24V source. I had trouble finding the water temp gauge sensor, but I did find it (thanks greg!) and ended up screwing in the 2H sender and using the 2H plug. The oil pressure gauge was trickier. I couldn’t get either the 1HZ or the 2H senders to work, so got a mechanical gauge (napa) and routed it in to under the dash on the right of the steering wheel. The tac still doesn’t work, I didn’t have time to track it down. The reverse lights wasn’t bad either, the new plug mated right to the old harness down at the tranny. They worked for the inspection but died, there is probably a bad connection somewhere. That pretty much covers it I think…
DIDN’T GET TO: the A/C and radio. Just ran out of time. The a/c condenser is mounted and plugged but the compressor was left at home for now cuz the 2H unit wouldn’t just bolt up….So for now every passenger has their own 4-60 manual crank a/c….(4 windows @ 60mph…nevermind, haha). Also, the radio was never wired in because of the mess under the dash of the PO’s work. I got the new antenna installed but I may just take it to best buy and let them deal with it, I need speakers too….
Overall, not bad for so little time. I need to go through and redo/finish some things still, but she’s running and she’s legal, that’s what matters, right?
COOLING: As mentioned previously (I think....) I had to cut and turn the lower rad port so it wouldn't get in the way of the fan, so I was able to save the 2H radiator. Next up was the shroud. I battled with the old one for a while trying to modify it (too much time, really) before deciding to make one from scratch. So I did and it came out damn well if i may say so
Other water lines and heater lines were easy enough, just comparing manuals and making sure things were going in the in and out the out. I got both front and rear heaters working and the motor keeps very cool on the road. A couple mountain passes got pretty warm but no where near over-heating.VACUUM: This was very easy. It was just more comparing manuals and using common sense to make sure everything that needed vacuum got it. Everything in this area works the 4WD, the clutch and brake boosters, etc.
PEDALS: The throttle was covered below, and the brakes were never touched. The clutch created a whole new set of problems all of which were addressed. The slave and clutch lever was located on the opposite side of the bell housing on the 1HZ combo. I tracked down a 70 series slave which bolted right up, and use Napa brake line (about 4ft.) to connect it to the master. After some bleeding (of the hydraulics, that is) all pedals were functional.
WIRING: the alternator and starter were pretty easy. The starter cable was just extended to get to the opposite side (no push-button needed….yet
). The plugs were just swapped for the alternator (three wires to three wires), and it was plugged in, great charge. I also needed a new battery (one terminal was fawked on one of them). The glows were wired to a momentary toggle from a 24V source (right off the second battery). The switch is mounted on the dash on the left of the wheel where the rear defroster was. The cut-off solenoid was wired to a regular toggle, just to left of the glow switch on the dash, also from a 24V source. I had trouble finding the water temp gauge sensor, but I did find it (thanks greg!) and ended up screwing in the 2H sender and using the 2H plug. The oil pressure gauge was trickier. I couldn’t get either the 1HZ or the 2H senders to work, so got a mechanical gauge (napa) and routed it in to under the dash on the right of the steering wheel. The tac still doesn’t work, I didn’t have time to track it down. The reverse lights wasn’t bad either, the new plug mated right to the old harness down at the tranny. They worked for the inspection but died, there is probably a bad connection somewhere. That pretty much covers it I think…DIDN’T GET TO: the A/C and radio. Just ran out of time. The a/c condenser is mounted and plugged but the compressor was left at home for now cuz the 2H unit wouldn’t just bolt up….So for now every passenger has their own 4-60 manual crank a/c….(4 windows @ 60mph…nevermind, haha). Also, the radio was never wired in because of the mess under the dash of the PO’s work. I got the new antenna installed but I may just take it to best buy and let them deal with it, I need speakers too….
Overall, not bad for so little time. I need to go through and redo/finish some things still, but she’s running and she’s legal, that’s what matters, right?
- Thread starter
- #44
Oh, and...
1HZ's are AWESOME!
1HZ's are AWESOME!
- Thread starter
- #45
PS: Malphrus/JP - I give you a holler when I get my internet up (damn airimba...) stuck in labs for now, but we def gotta get together, whens the next upstate meet?
Sounds BADASS
for the amount of time you had seems like it worked great. pretty ballsy taking her out on a 13hr drive that soon after the swap. Cool that it all worked out if/when i get my $ in order i'll be asking you all sorts of ?'s
Nice job thanks for the update, also gald to hear you fuel milage is in the 20's
more motovation!
for the amount of time you had seems like it worked great. pretty ballsy taking her out on a 13hr drive that soon after the swap. Cool that it all worked out if/when i get my $ in order i'll be asking you all sorts of ?'s
Nice job thanks for the update, also gald to hear you fuel milage is in the 20's
more motovation!
HZJ60 Guy said:This guy is a DOG! Man, you get all the good stuff!
Go ahead, grovel in all that COOL stuff youve got!
PICTURES!
TB
OK, here's a few pics. Lets hope this all works!
1HD-FT engine after clean up and partial rebuild
Engine with H151F tranny and transfer case bolted up
Removing the 1HZ and R151F
Under hood view of HDJ105
The whole truck!
Greg.
beanz2 said:
Dave,
The gearboxes are the same length, but I suspect that the R151F in the HZJ105 has a different rear housing to make up for that.
Also, the R151F has a smaller output shaft than the H151F. That means the t/case also has to have the mating female splined gear to suit the particular gearbox. I'm sure that you could make either fit by replaceing just the one part, but as I had the matching t/case on hand, I just used that. Bolt pattern appeared to be the same on both.
I have pics of the rear of both gearboxes if that helps?
Greg.
tucker74
Moderator
Damn Greg - that's one sweet ride you've put together there...much envied here in the states (can't get the 105 or the 1HD-FT). Now for the question everyone else is thinking - what did you do w/ the 1HZ and R151F? I've got an FZJ80 I'd love to convert
Tucker
Tucker
- Thread starter
- #50
thanks panama, good luck with your's. Save youself the headache and give yourself plenty of time.....
sweet ride greg. A 1HD-FT would have been sweet for my 60, but too much coin for one of those in the US...
sweet ride greg. A 1HD-FT would have been sweet for my 60, but too much coin for one of those in the US...
tucker74 said:Damn Greg - that's one sweet ride you've put together there...much envied here in the states (can't get the 105 or the 1HD-FT). Now for the question everyone else is thinking - what did you do w/ the 1HZ and R151F? I've got an FZJ80 I'd love to convert
Tucker
Thanks Tucker and VT. I realise the 1HD-FT's are both expensive and getting harder to get. When I was over for Cruise Moab 2002, we visited SOR and Marv had 2 x 1HD-T's and 1 x 1HD-FT - he wouldn't tell me the price. He also had a H151F 5 speed or 2 there as well.
The complete 1HZ, R151F and T/case are still sitting here in the workshop.
HZJ60 Guy
Tank Buster
Hey, what's up with that? The steering wheel is on the WRONG side of the truck!
Dang Australians.
Great job.
TB
Dang Australians.
Great job.
TB
VTCruiser said:
Gehn,
Good work. Some questions here. How did the throttle work out, I think I missed it. Did you use the 1HZ cable?
What was the problem with the 2H sender? Did it just not fit the 1HZ? Did the pressure gauge work before the swap?
About the A/C, was there a way of modifying the 2H lines to mate with the 1HZ compressor?
Dave
beanz2 said:
Although I fear I'm stealing Gehn's thread, here's the pics I have of the gearboxes.
Picture of the 1HZ and R151F gearbox after removal from truck.
Pic of rear of the R151F gearbox (HZJ105).
Pic of the rear of the H151F gearbox (HDJ100, FZJ105, etc)
I'm disappointed I never took side by side pics of the 2 trannys to show the difference in size. You can get an idea by comparing the previous pic of the H151F, but the H series box is substantially larger. For what it's worth, the R151F is used in the turbo diesel Prado or 90 series, and TD Hilux (mini truck) over here.
sup gehn
just saw you drivin round town. you were headin into the tigermart next to the pike house at about 10:10. i was goin to holler, but i was in my girlfriend's explorer, so there was no possibility for quick recognition, ha ha
lookin nice and awesome to see the beast on the road
malphrus
just saw you drivin round town. you were headin into the tigermart next to the pike house at about 10:10. i was goin to holler, but i was in my girlfriend's explorer, so there was no possibility for quick recognition, ha ha
lookin nice and awesome to see the beast on the road
malphrus
- Thread starter
- #58
beanz2 said:
Throttle: I used the 1HZ cable and just modified how it mounts to the firewall (see above pic). I made a triangular bracket to bring the cable back around to the left side of the motor.
Oil Pressure: I am not sure if teh oil pressure sender was working before or not. I couldn't getteh guage to function properly with either teh 1HZ of 2H sender (both fit). I opted to go with a mechanical guage for the sake of getting ti working for the drive south. There is a good chance you could get it going with a little more time investigating.
My 1HZ did not come with an A/C compressor. If it had, there probably would have been a way to hook it up to the 2H lines. The 2H compressor still may work, i just haven't had time to fuss with it enough.
- Thread starter
- #59
72cruiser said:
Oh sweet, shoulda flagged me down. Haven't seen the gray 40 around yet, but i've been looking for it. we all gotta get together sometime....
HZJ60 Guy said:Hey, what's up with that? The steering wheel is on the WRONG side of the truck!
Dang Australians.
TB
I think if you research that statement fully you will find the steering is on the RIGHT side of the truck, and you guys have everything arse about.....
btw,
whay are the bolts missing out of the heat shield in this pic hzj105
