1FZ Oil Leak

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Doug,
I ended up having the dealer use a new main pan as my insurance covered the whole thing ($2400!); the service writer said they couldn't warranty the work if they used the salvage yard pan.
 
Kief -- You can buy any O ring for your pump from the dealer. I copied the page from my service manual and bought the pieces (o rings) I wanted to replace. I will warn you though, when I went in I replaced what appeared needed replacement but after I replaced them then others went bad from what I assume is pressure from the new o rings. I went in a second time and rebuilt the whole damn thing. Lesson learned

IdahoDoug -- I spaced it last night when I posted the PDF document in post #18 above because I intended to post the picture of the parts in the bag showing the part numbers. The answer to your question is yes I have them in my hands and they are coorect for my 93.
 
Here are the pics I "should have" posted last night...
StraightPlug.webp
 
Thanks, Tony. I copied the numbers down from your post and ordered 3 of them this afternoon - one each for the twins plus one for my bro in law's 340k '93 as I'm sure it is/will be leaking. Came to $3.50 or so for all 3....

DougM
 
$3.50 for all three?!?!?! :eek:

I am getting raped here in Arizona, I apid $11 and some change for one plug and one gasket. :meh:
 
Tony,

To clarify, I ordered ONLY the O rings. I'm not a fancy guy like you......heh....

DougM
 
Me? Fancy? Just wanted to make sure I did not have to get in there twice. :meh:
 
Hey, got mine today and I'm kinda bummed to find they're not actually O rings, but simply a metal washer. Not even a crush type washer like the metal oil seals for the diffy and oil pan drain bolts. So, I'm kinda bummed that I could have simply pulled mine out, cleaned the surfaces and put it back in to accomplish the same thing as putting a new one in. Unless I get in there and somehow there's damage which I doubt. Have you switched yours and noted a leak fix??

DougM
 
Is it an aluminum washer? If so, it would deform a little when tightened. I think the transfer case drain and fill plugs and oil drain plug use that type of sealing washer.
 
Has anyone put theirs on yet? I went to remove mine and it is tight as hell! If it is that tight then what is the torque supposed to be? The stealership will not give me a torque spec, they just say make sure it is tight. I do not want to make it too tight then again I do not want to not get it tight enough? Am I worrying too much on something that should be simple?
 
Mine was on there darn tight, I doubt it was leaking but what the heck. I didn't have the right allen head socket so I welded up a bar with a 14MM bolt that had a nut welded on that- Sears is 1/2 hour away so it was a time saver for me. It is the bottom of the drip world so all the other leaks may make this one look like the culprit.
 
It looked to be a steel washer - not aluminum. So I left them at the dealership in frustration. I think it unlikely now that these things are leaking in the absence of a shrink-prone rubber O ring seal.

DougM
 
I have the parts but have yet to put them on. I was not going to drain the oil, just jack it up in the front. I may loose some oil but it should not be that bad.
 
Any word on this fix yet? Did the new washer and plug work?

I have the same leak now with a drop hanging from the hex plug. I just did the crank sensor seal and dizzy o-ring. The drip at the hex plug is new .. I didn't have it before I did the crank sensor seal and dizzy o-ring. I was assuming that I need to do the oil pump cover o-ring and the crank shaft seal. Looks like those that have done those seals STILL have the drip at the hex plug.
 
Is there also another bigger gasket that goes on by between the pan and pump area? I have major oil seepage in that whole area. Figure i'll replace all the gaskets and what not. What is all the hardware I need to get ?
 
I'll be doing the crank position sensor O ring fix Rick posted when the weather warms. Got the O rings on the bench. I was planning to do them (sensor, Hex plug, oil pump) in sequence from easiest to hardest to see if one fixes it. Hoping not to pull the oil pump.

DougM
 
so what's the result of replacing the hex bolt and washer? any luck?
 
I have heard rumors about what happens when you get married (again) but never thought it would come true.

I have been side tracked by this because I started to change this but order the gears and lockers first. I had them installed just before my honeymoon, had family fly in from all over that caused a weeks delay and now I am interviewing with Intel that is getting all my focus. I remember the days when I had absolutely nothing to do and plenty of time to do it.

I will keep you posted but I have never found out a torque spec for this bolt. I guess it does not matter but I seem to over tighten things (just a little bit more...). :meh:
 
I ended up doing the oil pump cover and front main after this ... that was my problem. No more drips at the hex plug. My guess would be that if doing all of the above doesn't stop that drip from hanging at the bottom of your plug, you need to do the timing chain cover. I just don't think that hex plug leaks IMHO.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom