1FZ-FE Wiring (1 Viewer)

[parkamatt]

I have an 80 series with the 1FZ-FE engine with 320,000kms, and having just completed a full engine rebuild, I have discovered that the wiring and connectors have deteriorated significantly, with some falling apart trying to reinstall.
I am just looking at what my best option is to fix this, do I source a new loom (if so where can I get one) or do I re-wire in new connectors.
If I am to rewire, is there a full loom I can get with an aftermarket ECU, as turbo is on the cards for the near future.

 

[landtoy80]

Cant help you with wiring much. I have spliced harness and replaced ends on O2 sensor wires. Was not a hard job to put ends on. Wiring repair has held up 220,000 mi.
The O2 wire has a shielding on it. You would need to replace any shielding if you cut into it.

Nice headlights.

 

[slow95z]

yeah no kidding, i bet those high beams shine so bright you could walk across the beams.

 

[parkamatt]

Its an early 95 model, so no O2 sensors, but yeah other connectors will be simple to replace. I'm just worried that the deterioration of the connectors suggests the wiring is poor as well. I have already had to replace earth cables, replace the dizzy connector and make up new connectors for the Knock sensors.

The high beams sure beat the stock ones they replaced, although the LED on my phone would have had better light output than the stockies!

 

[parkamatt]

Cant help you with wiring much. I have spliced harness and replaced ends on O2 sensor wires. Was not a hard job to put ends on. Wiring repair has held up 220,000 mi.
The O2 wire has a shielding on it. You would need to replace any shielding if you cut into it.

Nice headlights.

Where did you get the connectors? Toyota? or are they just a standard type of connector?

 

[landtoy80]

Toyota dealer. You need to find a dealer that knows parts. I happen to find a guy locally in Denver,CO at a dealership that knew about the connector ends. Many dealers cant find them in the book or computer.

 

[parkamatt]

Toyota dealer. You need to find a dealer that knows parts. I happen to find a guy locally in Denver,CO at a dealership that knew about the connector ends. Many dealers cant find them in the book or computer.

Alright, thanks, I'll check with the dealer. I've had issues with them not being able to find things before (piston rings, head bolts) so may have to try a different dealer.

 

[landtoy80]

The parts guy even showed me how to take apart the connector to repair it even though I have done it before.

I have bought just the plastic ends and reused the connector. I also bought just the wires with that were about 6" or so long with the waterproof gasket on them. Both just snap together. Its a little bit of a trick with a couple small pricks to get the connector apart but once you have done it a couple times it goes fast.

Replaced one of the big plug connector for the computer on a Camry with lots of wires.

Be careful with the ones with lots of wires in them. Take real good notes as its easy to screw it up and put the wrong wire in the wrong port.
Do one side of the connector at a time so if you mess up, its just opposite of the other end.

 

[Tugarin]

OFF TOPIC, how these LED high beams do perform?

 

[parkamatt]

OFF TOPIC, how these LED high beams do perform?

Light output is crazy. about the same as the lightbar. They handle the water really well, I've got mud and water in the Low Beams quite a few times and the High Beams are perfectly dry.

 

[landtoy80]

One problem with non heated LED's, they don't melt off snow and ice. I see they sell heated ones now but are pricey.
All the new semi tractor trailers come with LED tail lights. A little snow on a dark night, you will never see the trailer till you are on his ICC bar.
I hate them for that reason.

 

[Seth_O]

Hunt around online as well. I found replacement connectors for my injectors (the harness side) at an injector rebuild place. They were substantially less expensive than buying from the dealer, and after 20+ yrs and countless heat cycles they sure beat the brittle & broken ones they replaced.

 

[parkamatt]

One problem with non heated LED's, they don't melt off snow and ice. I see they sell heated ones now but are pricey.
All the new semi tractor trailers come with LED tail lights. A little snow on a dark night, you will never see the trailer till you are on his ICC bar.
I hate them for that reason.

ha yeah, I dont really have that problem in Australia. Looking at a top of 40degrees tomorrow (105 ish Fahrenheit??).

 

[parkamatt]

Hunt around online as well. I found replacement connectors for my injectors (the harness side) at an injector rebuild place. They were substantially less expensive than buying from the dealer, and after 20+ yrs and countless heat cycles they sure beat the brittle & broken ones they replaced.

Yeah, I will definitely take a look around. I have quite a few connectors to get so if I can save a few $$ that'd be good!

 

[landtoy80]

I have one fuel injector that I broke the connector lock on. I just used a zip tie to hold it in. Been holding for a over a year.
Figured that the wires might be too brittle to repair and I dont have the wire repair kit from Toyota.
Camry has a plug connector that I just filled the side of the connector with RV sealant, keep the RV sealant off the pin connectors. Its still running after a couple years.

Seen, many years ago that Toyota made a kit to fix injector wires. Have no idea what Toyota it was for or where I saw it.

 

[Seth_O]

I used to have a '69 FJ40. On that I used whatever I could find to keep it on the road, duct tape and bailing wire all the way. With my '80 I am more prone to fixing stuff 'correctly' but I still look to keep costs low. I might ohm out the wires, but its unlikely they have gone bad. The wire doesn't take a ton of damage from heat cycles, but the plastic gets really brittle. I would just replace the connectors vs trying to source a new harness. Used is unlikely to be enough better than what you have to warrant the work, imho.

One of the things I love about my 80 is that all the connectors are rebuildable

 

[landtoy80]

My 80 has aged enough that I am at the "whatever it takes" faze of its life. I will give it some OEM treats now and them but its steady diet of Polyken/Nashua tape and aircraft safety wire for this old 80.

 

[Tugarin]

Wiring is not that expensive part of repair, I do all my wiring myself and do preventative maintenance. Also I do not allow somebody to dig in wiring, That what kills it.

The 80s are aging and require more care, but one good overhaul and it's good to go for another 200-300 KKms. Wiring is very very simple all goes by analog system. Nothing digitized and if you have little skills and tools simple to fix it.

In case of TS I would strip the original wiring get some tools and get it fixed, the connectors can be replaced, pins male females can be re-attached. It is always good when you have new seals on connectors.

As I do my wiring myself I can wash my engine with pressure wash with no issues. And I do it every time when I wash my truck

 

[parkamatt]

Wiring is not that expensive part of repair, I do all my wiring myself and do preventative maintenance. Also I do not allow somebody to dig in wiring, That what kills it.

The 80s are aging and require more care, but one good overhaul and it's good to go for another 200-300 KKms. Wiring is very very simple all goes by analog system. Nothing digitized and if you have little skills and tools simple to fix it.

In case of TS I would strip the original wiring get some tools and get it fixed, the connectors can be replaced, pins male females can be re-attached. It is always good when you have new seals on connectors.

As I do my wiring myself I can wash my engine with pressure wash with no issues. And I do it every time when I wash my truck

Yeah I have no issues with doing the wiring. I have just rebuilt the engine, put new alternator, battery, leads, coil, ect. so all that stuff is good now for a long time. I'm leaning toward full rewiring with new connectors. Previous owners have spliced and tapped in everywhere, as you said, thats what kills it. I am always hesitant to pressure wash the engine bay due to the condition of wiring, so may be worth going all out and not having to worry.

 

[Tugarin]

I have eliminated all tapped points. Took from fuse box ACC, illumination, reverse, parking and brake signal wires and then led them to separate relay/junction box. Junction box is also relay powered to ACC. Any time I need power, I connect there, and fused main taken directly from battery.

So everything including audio, compressor, lights (including stock) are powered from that JB.

It eliminates most headache with wiring, as soon as the stock wiring stays intact, it simply do not cause any problem.