1FZ-FE oil pump idler gear bearing/bushing

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

NLXTACY said:
I wouldn't call them "home made". They are made in machine shop. I have one sitting comfortably in my $15k engine rebuild and modification. It can be trusted and up til this point have never heard of a failure. You can get them here:

1FZ-FE Oil Pump Bushing. | Toyota 80 Series Land Cruiser and Overland Gear.
Click to expand...


By 'home made' i just meant not OEM. Really wondered if the different material had any affect on the life of the bearing. Just ordered today, fingers crossed.
 
Hello guys,
Can any one tell me if the bushing in discussion can be the reason why I have a high oil presume in my 97 lx450? Can some one post some pictures of where is the bushing located and how to take it out?
Thanks
 
crazybirddog said:
Thanks. I found some dimensions, but it said they were for a used bearing. Also, it concerns me that it has two oiling grooves. These dimensions are from a post by Photoman.

“Oil pump bushing – 1.211 long
1.301-1.3025 O.S.
1.1795- 1.182 I.S.
.056-.064 wall thickness

Bushing oil hole .310-.321 diameter YX
.497 outside of bushing to outside diameter of hole (not hole center)
.392 outside of bushing to outside of hole from other end

bushing oil pump hole in block 1.287 diameter”


If anyone can help me out I would greatly appreciate it. I don’t mind purchasing a bearing if someone has one already fabricated.
Click to expand...
Hello there,
did you ring the bushing if so can you share where?
Thanks
 
landtank said:
These are the bushing s that I have made up. Still made out of naval brass and has all the oil grooves present in the stock bushing . I'm not aware of a single issue with the exception of a customer not cleaning the shaft of the gear before assembling .

That shaft can accumulate some transfer which will interfear with the bushing .I take some 800 grit emery with alcohol and remove any transfer. Also when installing the gear prep the bearing with oil and use a rotating motion as you insert it . That will reduce the chance of the shaft sticking from miss alignment. The tolerances are quite close
Click to expand...
 
Hello there,
I'm having some problems with high oil pressure that can be use by y this bushing. I need some guidance on how to replace mine in my 97 lx450. Any help will be appreciate.
thanks
Ariel
 
NLXTACY said:
It's behind the timing cover plate to the upper right of the crank.
Click to expand...
Thank you for letting know. Do I need to touch the timing belt at all? Do you have any idea on how to dignost the bushing in order to know if that is the real problem with the high oil pressure?
I appreciate
Regards
Ariel
 
crazybirddog said:
Thanks. I found some dimensions, but it said they were for a used bearing. Also, it concerns me that it has two oiling grooves. These dimensions are from a post by Photoman.

“Oil pump bushing – 1.211 long
1.301-1.3025 O.S.
1.1795- 1.182 I.S.
.056-.064 wall thickness

Bushing oil hole .310-.321 diameter YX
.497 outside of bushing to outside diameter of hole (not hole center)
.392 outside of bushing to outside of hole from other end

bushing oil pump hole in block 1.287 diameter”


If anyone can help me out I would greatly appreciate it. I don’t mind purchasing a bearing if someone has one already fabricated.
Click to expand...
I just got an oil pump bushing from yota1 performance and my question is when I press it in, does the hole on the bushing face down towards the oil pan, or face up towards the head?
 
Newbie2the80s said:
I just got an oil pump bushing from yota1 performance and my question is when I press it in, does the hole on the bushing face down towards the oil pan, or face up towards the head?
Click to expand...
It needs to go where the hole is in the block. If it doesn't, then the Bushing will be starved for oil - that would be...
A "problem":flush:
 
Last edited:
manofthewoods said:
It needs to go where the hole is in the block. If it doesn't, then the Bushing will be starved for oil - that would be...
A "problem":flush:
Click to expand...
The bottom hole or top hole?

20210918_163515.webp


20210918_163525.webp


20210918_163553.webp
 
manofthewoods said:
It needs to go where the hole is in the block. If it doesn't, then the Bushing will be starved for oil - that would be...
A "problem":flush:
Click to expand...
well... you're 4 days too late for me to tell you. I've put that part of my engine together. I decided not to remove mine, I didn't realize the iron block has two holes. so, I don't remember which hole is the correct one. As far as I knew there was only one hole.

Logic says that they drilled through the bottom past the hole up towards an oil gallery above. Meaning the lower hole is not "in use" but the upper one provides the necessary lubrication. But, that's only my theory. I wouldn't bet on it! :meh:

lotta help I'am, huh?
 
Ya t
manofthewoods said:
well... you're 4 days too late for me to tell you. I've put that part of my engine together. I decided not to remove mine, I didn't realize the iron block has two holes. so, I don't remember which hole is the correct one. As far as I knew there was only one hole.

Logic says that they drilled through the bottom past the hole up towards an oil gallery above. Meaning the lower hole is not "in use" but the upper one provides the necessary lubrication. But, that's only my theory. I wouldn't bet on it! :meh:

lotta help I'am, huh?
Click to expand...
Ya the pictures I have of disassembly still have the sprocket on so I'm now at a stalemate:(
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom