not to brag or anything...
but, I WAS RIGHT (OK, I had a 50/50 chance
)chicks dig me. (guess the movie)
1FZ-FE oil pump idler gear bearing/bushing
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but, I WAS RIGHT (OK, I had a 50/50 chance
)chicks dig me. (guess the movie)
Stripes?not to brag or anything...
but, I WAS RIGHT (OK, I had a 50/50 chance
chicks dig me. (guess the movie)
What kind of rings and bearings are you using? I bought Hastings and not sure after comparing them to the OG's today.
not sure if you're asking me. but...
372k miles. cylinders measured to the top of spec. Machinist surprisingly recommended to hone and not bore. So, I bought new OEM pistons, rings, Mains and rod bearings. currently I'm worried about exhaust valve lash. Machinist said you'll probably be fine with the intakes - and, he was right. But he wasn't too sure about exhaust. turns out only 2 were OK. I've ordered new ones from the local Stealership 'cause I wanted them quicker ($$$ ouch!). What I'm worried about is 1 was too tight to get any measurement (i.e., there isn't any gap, and is likely a little pressure), so ordering for that one is dicey. To make it worse, the thinnest one may not be thin enough. I'll know in a few days, if I can't get in spec. I don't know what I'll do
Have fun.
Ok. Wait wait what is exhaust valve lash?not sure if you're asking me. but...
372k miles. cylinders measured to the top of spec. Machinist surprisingly recommended to hone and not bore. So, I bought new OEM pistons, rings, Mains and rod bearings. currently I'm worried about exhaust valve lash. Machinist said you'll probably be fine with the intakes - and, he was right. But he wasn't too sure about exhaust. turns out only 2 were OK. I've ordered new ones from the local Stealership 'cause I wanted them quicker ($$$ ouch!). What I'm worried about is 1 was too tight to get any measurement (i.e., there isn't any gap, and is likely a little pressure), so ordering for that one is dicey. To make it worse, the thinnest one may not be thin enough. I'll know in a few days, if I can't get in spec. I don't know what I'll do
Have fun.
Couldn't you just put new springs and just reshim the buckets?not sure if you're asking me. but...
372k miles. cylinders measured to the top of spec. Machinist surprisingly recommended to hone and not bore. So, I bought new OEM pistons, rings, Mains and rod bearings. currently I'm worried about exhaust valve lash. Machinist said you'll probably be fine with the intakes - and, he was right. But he wasn't too sure about exhaust. turns out only 2 were OK. I've ordered new ones from the local Stealership 'cause I wanted them quicker ($$$ ouch!). What I'm worried about is 1 was too tight to get any measurement (i.e., there isn't any gap, and is likely a little pressure), so ordering for that one is dicey. To make it worse, the thinnest one may not be thin enough. I'll know in a few days, if I can't get in spec. I don't know what I'll do
Have fun.
It's the gap every valve needs when it is closed. It's measured between each valve top and it's corresponding camshaft lobe at it's most "relaxed" position. My "problem" valve is so off that if I left it alone, that cylinder would run low on compression AND that valve would be toasted in no time flat. Which kinda defeats the reason I'm doing my build.
Another way to think of the principle is: each valve must close completely. The gap (aka lash) ensures closure under conditions found during running such as high RPMS, normal high heat, etc.
On a 1fz-fe intake and exhaust valve lash are NOT the same. But, they must be checked/adjusted (reset) following any work done on the head.
Learn the workings of the 4 stroke engine grasshopper; for it is vital for your project's success.
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Couldn't you or the machinist put new valves in?It's the gap every valve needs when it is closed. It's measured between each valve top and it's corresponding camshaft lobe at it's most "relaxed" position. My "problem" valve is so off that if I left it alone, that cylinder would run low on compression AND that valve would be toasted in no time flat. Which kinda defeats the reason I'm doing my build.
Another way to think of the principle is: each valve must close completely. The gap (aka lash) ensures closure under conditions found during running such as high RPMS, normal high heat, etc.
On a 1fz-fe intake and exhaust valve lash are NOT the same. But, they must be checked/adjusted (reset) following any work done on the head.
Learn the workings of the 4 stroke engine grasshopper; for it is vital for your project's success.
new valves or old/reconditioned valves, doesn't matter. the lash MUST be correct. There are many dimensions at play, such as: valve length, how deep is the valve seated, the slight differences in the camshaft, etc. Mind you we're talking thousands of an inch, but, those thousands of an inch in the valve train are make, or break.
just tellin' ya like it is.Ottram has a video you can, and, should hunt down. And, of course, the FSM has the procedure and specifications.
Camshafts and valves. Precision stuff that needs to be done right.
See i figured the machinist will have all that taken care of and just give the head back and say go bolt it on. He's got the whole top end to give the correct specs with the shims. New seals. The Ottram video he's checking each cam lobe and shim measurements but doesn't say anything about valves and springs. Now I see why this kind of job can't be in a rush unless you've done it plenty of times.new valves or old/reconditioned valves, doesn't matter. the lash MUST be correct. There are many dimensions at play, such as: valve length, how deep is the valve seated, the slight differences in the camshaft, etc. Mind you we're talking thousands of an inch, but, those thousands of an inch in the valve train are make, or break.
Ottram has a video you can, and, should hunt down. And, of course, the FSM has the procedure and specifications.
Camshafts and valves. Precision stuff that needs to be done right.