1998 rear differential lock

[Green2000LX]

I’m getting the blinking indicator. I hear a relay in the engine bay I can’t hear a motor engaging. I believe the lockers were never used in this lc. Ive put the TC in low with cdl indicator lit, I can’t get the rear indicator to stay solid the abs light is solid when the dial is set to lock.

My questions are should I go exercise it to see if I can get it working? Any dos and don’t a for freeing it up?
I’d really rather not break something trying to get it working.
Or pull it out and disassemble and clean it/replace.
I’m more leaning towards pulling it out and cleaning it for peace of mind.

I’m curious how it works in normal circumstances, I feel like it should engage/ disengage fairly smoothly with perhaps some binding preventing proper function.
I just tried S turns on a small gravel lot and nothing.

 

[Dirt J]

I'd try tapping on the locker actuator with a hammer (lightly) to see if it will free up, when someone presses the button to engage.

 

[Super77]

It's normal for the rear locker to require a little forward motion to fully engage. Mine typically locks in after about 100-200 feet. Try it on a level surface, straight ahead. Ideally not on pavement if you plan on making any turns. And yes, the hammer tap as @Dirt J suggests can sometimes unstick it.

 

[excessive]

youre probably going to have to take the rear locker motor apart and clean / re-grease inside of it. there are tuturials on YT

 

[Green2000LX]

youre probably going to have to take the rear locker motor apart and clean / re-grease inside of it. there are tuturials on YT

That’s what I’m thinking. If the grease is hardened I’m gonna do more damage trying to force it to work/ burn out the motor?

 

[Green2000LX]

I tried tapping with a rubber mallet. No sound when dial turned while under the truck. What wires do i check for voltage? I believe there’s 5? And 2 for the sensor?

 

[Dirt J]

Check this out.

 

[Green2000LX]

Check this out.

Thank you!

 

[Green2000LX]

This is tempting for the price. I prefer oem.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2274221285...pid=5337589904&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1
Anyone have experience with these?

 

[porschenut]

I bought one of these, from this seller on AliExpress, and it's been working great for a year now. My OEM actuator was a complete corroded mess to the point that I didn't even want to try cleaning up what I found inside it. I figured this Chinese actuator was worth a gamble and it has paid off.

At best, and for the price, I was hoping it'd be a remanufactured unit but its body is an all new aftermarket casting. It also seemed to be sealed up fairly well.

For Lexus LX470 Toyota Land Cruiser 98-03 OEM Differential Lock Actuator 41450-60070 4145060070

 

[Green2000LX]

I bought one of these, from this seller on AliExpress, and it's been working great for a year now. My OEM actuator was a complete corroded mess to the point that I didn't even want to try cleaning up what I found inside it. I figured this Chinese actuator was worth a gamble and it has paid off.

At best, and for the price, I was hoping it'd be a remanufactured unit but its body is an all new aftermarket casting. It also seemed to be sealed up fairly well.

For Lexus LX470 Toyota Land Cruiser 98-03 OEM Differential Lock Actuator 41450-60070 4145060070

Nice! I just read a thread you had commented on about your experience and I wanted to ask you how it came out for you.
Is your blinking light gone?
I ordered a cleaning reseal kit from land tanks I’m hoping that it can be cleaned but I’m afraid of opening up a can of worms since it’s almost a 30yo motor! For a MN truck it doesn’t look that bad

 

[Green2000LX]

I had an idea. Would pulling the actuator from the rear differential with wiring harness connected then exercising the locker be a good idea?
I have a feeling that it might help free it up not having anything for it to have to move.

I ordered a new actuator in case mine is beyond saving with the @landtank kit.

 

[frinesi2]

FYI - for anyone who does wind up replacing the actuator assembly, an 80-series actuator is usually cheaper than a 100-series actuator. You just have to change over the connector and adjust the actuating rod by a tooth or two to line the threads up up with the bolt hole in the fork on the differential.
There are some fiddly bits inside the housing, so ... be careful and keep track of how it comes apart.

 

[Green2000LX]

I tried ordering the aftermarket ones and got a message claiming that they got a bad batch and can’t sent it, so I’m going to get an oem one on hand in case the one on my 98 is beyond repair.

I’m hoping that it can be saved and the oem can be sent back!

 

[porschenut]

Nice! I just read a thread you had commented on about your experience and I wanted to ask you how it came out for you.
Is your blinking light gone?

I had to replace the actuator first and the rear locker ECU second (it all worked the year before). Everything, including the light, has been working normally after replacing both. After the locker failed and I found the inside of the actuator to be a complete mess, I reinstalled the mess to continue driving while I hunted for a replacement actuator. In the meantime, the ECU must've somehow failed and I didn't notice of course. I was pretty confused after bench testing the Chinese actuator before installing it, and the locker still didn't work. While a replacement ECU was challenging to source, the ECU was super easy to re&re.

 

[Green2000LX]

I had to replace the actuator first and the rear locker ECU second (it all worked the year before). Everything, including the light, has been working normally after replacing both. After the locker failed and I found the inside of the actuator to be a complete mess, I reinstalled the mess to continue driving while I hunted for a replacement actuator. In the meantime, the ECU must've somehow failed and I didn't notice of course. I was pretty confused after bench testing the Chinese actuator before installing it, and the locker still didn't work. While a replacement ECU was challenging to source, the ECU was super easy to re&re.

That’s awesome! Thanks for the info, I’m hoping my actuator is needing a good cleaning. I really need to test to see if it’s getting voltage! I have a Milwaukee tic tester that can detect 12v (not the most reliable) without unplugging connections!

I still haven’t tried lifting the vehicle to mesh the gears, if it’s gummed up it probably needs a good cleaning to avoid burning up the motor?