1998 LX470 Front AHC Strut / Shock Failure Replacement (1 Viewer)

Joined
Oct 25, 2015
Messages
9
Location
Victoria, BC
I have 1998 LX470 with about 300K KMs (186K miles) and a right front AHC Strut / Shock Failure. It's still drivable but loosing fluid daily. I kinda would like keep the AHC stock but is this unwise? Before the leak zero issues and great ride. I'm not sure when the fluid was changed last; likely a 5 plus years. Other than Lexus / Toyota where is a good source for new struts / shocks? What is the procedure for replacement and change fluid?

Thanks so much in advance,

Richard
Victoria, BC, Canada

IMG_1041.jpg


IMG_1042.jpg


IMG_1043.jpg


IMG_1044.jpg


IMG_1045.jpg
 

suprarx7nut

The YotaMD Guy
Supporting Vendor
Joined
Sep 28, 2010
Messages
3,855
Location
Colorado
Are you sure it's the shock (hydraulic ram) that's bad (that's very rare) or is it just the o-ring seal at the top (that's somewhat common)?

Keep AHC.
 
Joined
Oct 25, 2015
Messages
9
Location
Victoria, BC
Are you sure it's the shock (hydraulic ram) that's bad (that's very rare) or is it just the o-ring seal at the top (that's somewhat common)?

Keep AHC.

Hey thanks. No I'm not sure about the o-ring. I just know its not the hose and assume the shock. How do I check the o-ring? Where is it? Thanks so much.
 
Joined
Jun 19, 2013
Messages
2,377
Location
Mobile, AL
The "shocks" may seep a bit due to pressure but if you are seeing a drop of fluid in the reservoir and lots of moisture hitting the ground under the shock, the shock needs replacing. I have had to replace one shock in my many years of LX ownership. The toyota OEM shock cost me about $140 plus labor. It was a much better decision to replace the shock and continue to enjoy the AHC than waste the AHC and spend lots more cash replacing with LC suspension.
 
Joined
Oct 25, 2015
Messages
9
Location
Victoria, BC
The "shocks" may seep a bit due to pressure but if you are seeing a drop of fluid in the reservoir and lots of moisture hitting the ground under the shock, the shock needs replacing. I have had to replace one shock in my many years of LX ownership. The toyota OEM shock cost me about $140 plus labor. It was a much better decision to replace the shock and continue to enjoy the AHC than waste the the AHC and spend lots more cash replacing with LC suspension.

There's lots of fluid on the ground and the fluid reservoir is down 3-4 ticks on the side graduations
 
Joined
Jun 19, 2013
Messages
2,377
Location
Mobile, AL
Might need to get on the hook looking for a shock. But if you ask Toyota guys, make sure they know it is an AHC "shock". They may send you a traditional shock used on non AHC LCs instead. Don't ask me how I know because now you know.
 
Joined
Oct 25, 2015
Messages
9
Location
Victoria, BC
No, but that looks like a failed cushion I think.

See this thread. Lots of good info and commentary on the general topic. Leak near top of Front Driver AHC Shock

You may be right and it may only be the o-ring. Can I trouble you to confirm what the procedure is for opening the system at the point where the hydrolic line interfaces the top of the shock?

1. Jack up the front quarter?
2. Do what to take the pressure off?
3. Remove hydro hose from top of shock and replace O-ring?
4. Bleed? How?
5. Etc.?

Thank a bunch!
 

suprarx7nut

The YotaMD Guy
Supporting Vendor
Joined
Sep 28, 2010
Messages
3,855
Location
Colorado
You may be right and it may only be the o-ring. Can I trouble you to confirm what the procedure is for opening the system at the point where the hydrolic line interfaces the top of the shock?

1. Jack up the front quarter?
2. Do what to take the pressure off?
3. Remove hydro hose from top of shock and replace O-ring?
4. Bleed? How?
5. Etc.?

Thank a bunch!
Haven't done it myself, but I can snap a couple shots of the manual if they give a good explanation. I've got hard copies.
 
Joined
Sep 1, 2018
Messages
258
Location
Florida
Jack up that side.
Relieve pressure at the module attached to frame rail near that shock - its got a bleeder on it. Open it and leave it open until there's no pressure left. It'll make a mess if you don't use a hose and cup to direct the fluid spray.
Unbolt hydraulic hose, loosen the sides equally a few turns at a time.
Pop hose off. If you didn't bleed it super good, you'll make a mess now.
Very carefully remove old split ring and oring. Be careful not to scratch up the oring seating surface while digging it out.
Getting the new oring and split ring in is a pain.
Reinstallation is the reverse of removal.

Then follow the refill and bleed described in THE AHC maintenance thread.

I did this twice before I realized it was my shock leaking and not the oring. Given how yours looks, I would think it's the shock body that's been narrowed by years of use, especially considering the number of miles you have. Mine was leaking at 135k.

New shock, no more leak.
 

suprarx7nut

The YotaMD Guy
Supporting Vendor
Joined
Sep 28, 2010
Messages
3,855
Location
Colorado
I think @krispykritter has you covered, but here's the manual for an 06LX. If you're taking that area apart for a new shock, I'd get a new cushion set. I can't tell which parts have rubber, but I'd assume any rubber part there is worn out.

1594436537822.png

1594436579074.png

1594436602387.png
 
Joined
Jan 31, 2018
Messages
423
Location
DFW
I'd be interested to see your shock 'post' below the top threads where your cushion is definitely disintegrated.

I had a cushion totally give out like that and it rubbed a hole in that silver post where the hydraulic fluid flows. Based on the location of the flow it kind of looks like it could be that, e.g. lower than the top bolt where the o-rings are. If that's the case then definitely new shock, cushions and o-ring. I can help get you all the part numbers and best prices. First you need to get that shock off to determine if that's the leak point. Has to come off anyway for the cushions.

Otherwise there can be a leak from the o-ring (possible) or a seep lower down on the shock due to excess pressure on the system when torsion bars need tightening (not likely from what I can see - seems to be the wrong leak location).

If I had to guess, possibly new shock, new o-ring (replace always), new cushions (clearly worn), possibly tighten torsion bars for good measure and I think you'll be good. It has to come off either way so start there and let us know if you need help. Feel free to PM me for part numbers or any questions. Good luck.
4851069126.jpg
 
Joined
Sep 1, 2018
Messages
258
Location
Florida
For my own info, does anyone have the part numbers for the washers? I was able to clean up and reuse my old ones but I had to use a grinder to get the old shock out and those washers were both badly corroded and ended up with some minor grinder rash. I'd rather just buy new ones when I get to the passenger side.
 
Joined
Sep 1, 2018
Messages
258
Location
Florida
BTW this is what your shock shaft might look like. Mine is a little shorter than oem thanks to 'removal-by-grinder':

 
Joined
Sep 1, 2018
Messages
258
Location
Florida
Did you ever find a decently priced AHC replacement shock? I can't seem to find one for less than $220 a piece:rolleyes:

McGeorge Toyota sells them for about 200$ each plus shipping, so total of 220$ sounds right. I wasn't able to find it cheaper.

Let me just say I finally got around to replacing the passenger side shock and I'm glad I can probably wait another 15 years to replace them again. It took me almost three hours to get it out, using a grinder and being careful not to destroy the washers. Horrendous job.
 
Joined
Oct 15, 2020
Messages
6
Location
Norfolk, VA
Thanks for following up. Ya they can be a real chore to get out. Local LC specialist only wants 170 in labor for rears. Thats all I needed to hear and I get to supply the parts.
 
Joined
Sep 1, 2018
Messages
258
Location
Florida
Thanks for following up. Ya they can be a real chore to get out. Local LC specialist only wants 170 in labor for rears. Thats all I needed to hear and I get to supply the parts.

God yes go with that! I don't have an LC specialist and wouldn't even know how to find a decent mechanic these days if I tried. My rears probably need replacing as well, but they're not leaking for now. I'm just gonna ignore the torn up bushing as long as I can.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Top Bottom