Builds 1998 Hilux Ln167 Build and 5L rebuild (1 Viewer)

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So I have a 1998 double cab Hilux N60 with 5L N/A diesel. This orginally was going to be an immdiate sale due to unexpected changes between buying the truck and arriving in port. But since I sold my long term build, a Land Rover Defender 110, and that this hilux decided to start knocking, I'm going to build and sort this hilux out before eventually selling it.

Immediate to do:
- Rebuild 5L engine: Seems like possible BEB, but engine need to be opened up. I found some good rebuild kits out of Australia 🇦🇺 , and I found a good machine shop that will do the rebuild.
- Bedline be with color matched bedliner
- New Suspension
-ARB bumper
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- Sound deadening
-New rims, or refinish rims

Possible projects:
-A/c Install (use domestic truck's a/c unit and have a/c hop make lines for rhd .
-Turbo install

There are not many build threads 🧵 about these online, despite how common and popular these trucks are, it seems.

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Update.
Engine ready to pull, just waiting on 2 ton engine hoist to arrive. Then I’ll drop it off at a local shop and they will be able to tell me the damage and what size rebuild kit I will need. Then I’ll order all the parts from Australia.

Radiator support is rusted at bottom and right hand side has slight damage so I’m going to replace it. Found a new one from eBay is 80$ and has already arrived. I just need a spot weld cutter and hopefully it won’t be too difficult to remove.

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When I pulled the erg system it was full carbon. I’m working to see what blanking plates will work (3L?) or make my own.
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Little man, always interested in what I’m doing and he loves cruising in my trucks.
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@Mace @Rigger can one of you move this thread to the appropriate section. It somehow end in 4runners when it need to be in the pickup/hilux section
 
I wish the Hilux's in Spain were offered with the 5L, so I could get one in a LHD. The 2L and 2LT are underpowered and prone to overheating.
 
I wish the Hilux's in Spain were offered with the 5L, so I could get one in a LHD. The 2L and 2LT are underpowered and prone to overheating.
Some out the 2LT turbo on the 5L. If you could source one, I would think it would be too hard swap.
 
Pulled drip rails on roof. Seems like most of these doubles have them split so it seems like there are three pieces but in reality it’s only one piece.

They are simply taped down.

Going to clean the troughs and treat any rust I might find and put a bead of seam sealer down.

P/N LH 75552-35060
RH 75551-35060
I think they can come in green as well black
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Engine hoist finally arrived. Vevor makes good diesel heaters so their engine hoist should be good, right? 😂

Despite some paint already falling off and one piece smells like cheap Chinese cigarettes 🚬 the hoist is ready to go
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Got motor separated and out. Pretty straightforward pull. Two front facing bell housing bolts held me back at first.

Scratching my head on how to remove the injector pump without taking the whole front of the engine off.

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Finally got the engine pulled and stripped and dropped off at machine shop.


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While pulling the engine I went ahead and removed the radiator support to make things easier. The bottom of the support was fairly rusted on one side, so it was going to have to get removed eventually.

Harbor freight spot weld cutter made an easy job of it, once I realized how many spot welds there actually were.
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While waiting on parts. I decided to install new upper control arms, which involves removing the torsion bars as well.
Steps to removing after torsion bar and upper control arm an IFS Hilux / Toyota pickup goes as follows.

Find torsion adjuster clamp at the end pf
The torsion bar near the transfer case.
There is a 22mm nut up top and bolt head on bottom needs to be undone, located in yellow below.
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Next mark the torsion bar with grease pencil
Or paint maker on the anchor point and the bar so you know how to reinstall bar. There is “master” spline so this matters.

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Next undo the two 17mm nuts/bolts (circled in yellow) holding the torsion bar anchor to the upper control arm. Remove the locking castle nut holding the UCA to wheel assembly, then you can undo the three top bolts (circled in red) holding uca onto the frame.

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