- Location
- United States
*****SOLD*******
I’m running low on time and energy to keep going on this project. It still needs work as described below, but it’s a running, driving vehicle with the major mechanical stuff finished.
Price: $ 7000
Rundown below:
Body is in very good condition except for drivers fender, which will need to be replaced. The damage is isolated to the fender, door is fine.
Truck has about 284k showing on the odometer; <1000 after swap.
5.3l iron block (circa 2001) was rebuilt 3-4 years ago for a project that never got off the ground. It’s been bagged in a shop since. Installed in LC and has about 800 miles on everything.
Motor mounts use F-body bushings so easy to replace if need be.
4l60E was professionally built for this truck by reputable local shop (about $2000).
The engine wring works of course, but it could be cleaned up with an aux fuse box for a few relays.
Battery moved to the back of vehicle (planned to put it in a custom drawer enclosure.) Lot’s of room under hood.
New cable cruise module under hood and the wires are rolled up under dash. Just needs the switch finished. I bought a stalk switch that can replace the stock stalk and look close to factory.
New radiator for 2001 Silverado. I chose the Chevy because 1) will be easy to find replacement if ever necessary, and 2) keeps all the coolant flow tubes for Vortec intact and working as intended.
Complete set of rebuilt injectors installed.
New starter, alternator, water pump, power steering pump.
New Sanden air compressor, new Denso condenser and accumulator. All idler/tension pulleys are new. It will need a hose made to connect compressor to evaporator and AC will be ready to go.
Sunroof opens closes and tilts.
Replaced 2 tie rod ends and have other two (good Japanese brand).
Windows all work, but slowly. Door locks work except for right-rear. Power seats don't work.
New exhaust system with new O2 sensors. No cats and rear 02s are deleted. Turbo muffler, which sounds good, but on do-over would go more factory. Has a little resonance at certain RPMs. Easy enough fix, if new owner prefers.
New NAPA premium power brake booster, master cylinder, rotors, calipers and pads. ABS and LSPV deleted. Wilwood proportioning valve for rear. Brakes are amazing.
Birf/bearing service. Replaced the bearings, races and seals (factory brands).
Transfer case was disassembled by local LC shop to check it out and put back together with clean bill of health.
Factory lockers are there but don’t work. I think the only problem is wiring. When I bought the truck it was non-driving, but I think the rear made sound when switched. Don’t think the front did. Switch and control box is there.
Front drive shaft is installed but clearance between shaft and transmission pan, is tight, as is norm on these. I feel ok driving around town with it, but would have a smaller tube version built for permanent.
Tires need replaced, but don’t want to do it since a new owner will have their own preferences.
Rust was very minimal. It had two spots that I repaired. One, on the passenger inside fender well under the windshield washer reservoir. Two, it had some rust where your left foot rests on driver side floor pan, also from windshield fluid leaking from the line running down the sill to the rear. Under carriage was in good shape with minimal surface rust. I cleaned and undercoated a lot, but still some work needed. There’s a little surface rust on frame from gas tank back, but still pretty clean. The back portion of undercarriage didn’t have the protective oil/grease coating of the front 2/3, so it will need a little more scrubbing. Again, not bad, but needs finished.
Interior needs work, depending on what your intended purpose is. I had a drivers cover sewed up with marine vinyl, but the color wasn’t a fantastic match. If you want to get close to factory, you’ll want to replace the carpet and get replacement leather. I have the 3rd row. Needs the steering wheel clamshell and the lower dash panel is cracked.
Using an Ultragauge for now. Plan was to use a Dakota Digital dash and one of their modules that comes off the OBII port. I wired two ports so one could power the gauges and the other for scan tool. Have a couple autometer gauges basically laying on the console (oil pressure and water temp) that would work well in a pillar pod.
Heavy duty power steering and transmission coolers.
New Supra fuel pump installed in tank. Corvette regulator, AN braided lines.
Pics at:
Landcruiser - Google Drive
Crappy video.
Crappy video 2_ Driving
Questions, let me know.
**************SOLD******************
I’m running low on time and energy to keep going on this project. It still needs work as described below, but it’s a running, driving vehicle with the major mechanical stuff finished.
Price: $ 7000
Rundown below:
Body is in very good condition except for drivers fender, which will need to be replaced. The damage is isolated to the fender, door is fine.
Truck has about 284k showing on the odometer; <1000 after swap.
5.3l iron block (circa 2001) was rebuilt 3-4 years ago for a project that never got off the ground. It’s been bagged in a shop since. Installed in LC and has about 800 miles on everything.
Motor mounts use F-body bushings so easy to replace if need be.
4l60E was professionally built for this truck by reputable local shop (about $2000).
The engine wring works of course, but it could be cleaned up with an aux fuse box for a few relays.
Battery moved to the back of vehicle (planned to put it in a custom drawer enclosure.) Lot’s of room under hood.
New cable cruise module under hood and the wires are rolled up under dash. Just needs the switch finished. I bought a stalk switch that can replace the stock stalk and look close to factory.
New radiator for 2001 Silverado. I chose the Chevy because 1) will be easy to find replacement if ever necessary, and 2) keeps all the coolant flow tubes for Vortec intact and working as intended.
Complete set of rebuilt injectors installed.
New starter, alternator, water pump, power steering pump.
New Sanden air compressor, new Denso condenser and accumulator. All idler/tension pulleys are new. It will need a hose made to connect compressor to evaporator and AC will be ready to go.
Sunroof opens closes and tilts.
Replaced 2 tie rod ends and have other two (good Japanese brand).
Windows all work, but slowly. Door locks work except for right-rear. Power seats don't work.
New exhaust system with new O2 sensors. No cats and rear 02s are deleted. Turbo muffler, which sounds good, but on do-over would go more factory. Has a little resonance at certain RPMs. Easy enough fix, if new owner prefers.
New NAPA premium power brake booster, master cylinder, rotors, calipers and pads. ABS and LSPV deleted. Wilwood proportioning valve for rear. Brakes are amazing.
Birf/bearing service. Replaced the bearings, races and seals (factory brands).
Transfer case was disassembled by local LC shop to check it out and put back together with clean bill of health.
Factory lockers are there but don’t work. I think the only problem is wiring. When I bought the truck it was non-driving, but I think the rear made sound when switched. Don’t think the front did. Switch and control box is there.
Front drive shaft is installed but clearance between shaft and transmission pan, is tight, as is norm on these. I feel ok driving around town with it, but would have a smaller tube version built for permanent.
Tires need replaced, but don’t want to do it since a new owner will have their own preferences.
Rust was very minimal. It had two spots that I repaired. One, on the passenger inside fender well under the windshield washer reservoir. Two, it had some rust where your left foot rests on driver side floor pan, also from windshield fluid leaking from the line running down the sill to the rear. Under carriage was in good shape with minimal surface rust. I cleaned and undercoated a lot, but still some work needed. There’s a little surface rust on frame from gas tank back, but still pretty clean. The back portion of undercarriage didn’t have the protective oil/grease coating of the front 2/3, so it will need a little more scrubbing. Again, not bad, but needs finished.
Interior needs work, depending on what your intended purpose is. I had a drivers cover sewed up with marine vinyl, but the color wasn’t a fantastic match. If you want to get close to factory, you’ll want to replace the carpet and get replacement leather. I have the 3rd row. Needs the steering wheel clamshell and the lower dash panel is cracked.
Using an Ultragauge for now. Plan was to use a Dakota Digital dash and one of their modules that comes off the OBII port. I wired two ports so one could power the gauges and the other for scan tool. Have a couple autometer gauges basically laying on the console (oil pressure and water temp) that would work well in a pillar pod.
Heavy duty power steering and transmission coolers.
New Supra fuel pump installed in tank. Corvette regulator, AN braided lines.
Pics at:
Landcruiser - Google Drive
Crappy video.
Crappy video 2_ Driving
Questions, let me know.
**************SOLD******************
Last edited:
