Builds 1993 refreshed (now gone) and 1995 build up with new OEM engine (1 Viewer)

[SNLC]

Well, looks like I am ending up with another 80. Not going to say a lot right now, it’s pretty rough but that body wise is mostly in the back. It’s also factory sunroofless, so perfect for a pickup chop!

So an 80 pickup is back on the cards. It’s going to take forever and it needs A LOT of work, I will start a new build thread when the time comes. I am stoked though.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Put some cheesy OEM emblems on my Cruiser this morning.

Yes I know RHS of bumper is trashed, last wheeling trip carnage. Don’t care that much because I will be upgrading at some point.

First weekend since January that I have had a free bay in the shop on a weekend so taking advantage of that to get my sliders fitted and some other things too.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Got sidetracked working on fixing my diff locks. Then this happened.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Why not, it’s laying around.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Oh ya, I am out of the D-less club!

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Diff locks. So since I put the Cruiser on the road last September the CDL/ABS lights has never comes on in the cluster. My F/R diff locks don’t engage but the CDL does, just no indicators on the dash. Any ways, today I checked the 4wd ECU, as you can see it looks brand new. I also changed all five switches because they have been in my stash for awhile. I tested 4WD ECU and Trans ECU. No luck, looks like it may be in the wiring harness. I even went as far as to try other 4wd & trans ECUs with no change in the issue. My D light was out so I figured why not fix that and verify that the CDL light is good at the same time, which it is. I jumpered the CDL plug and got no dash indicators as well, bleh!

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Oh ya I also fixed the power feature today. It’s not been working since I put the Cruiser on the road too.

Turned out to be the switch just like I had thought.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

All diff locks fixed and working well.

Stoked! Turned out to be a busted wire near the CDL switch.

Cheers

 

[FMC80]

Nice!

 

[SNLC]

My Cruiser is back on the streets.

Routed my Scangauge wire through my dash while I had it apart. Still need to make a mount but at least for now I don’t have the wire just hanging out of the fuse panel.

Cheers

 

[jbee]

My Cruiser is back on the streets.

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Routed my Scangauge wire through my dash while I had it apart. Still need to make a mount but at least for now I don’t have the wire just hanging out of the fuse panel.

Cheers

Did you plug it into an empty fuse spot? Mine is in the cig outlet and wires everywhere.

 

[GOTLOCKED96]

Diff locks. So since I put the Cruiser on the road last September the CDL/ABS lights has never comes on in the cluster. My F/R diff locks don’t engage but the CDL does, just no indicators on the dash. Any ways, today I checked the 4wd ECU, as you can see it looks brand new. I also changed all five switches because they have been in my stash for awhile. I tested 4WD ECU and Trans ECU. No luck, looks like it may be in the wiring harness. I even went as far as to try other 4wd & trans ECUs with no change in the issue. My D light was out so I figured why not fix that and verify that the CDL light is good at the same time, which it is. I jumpered the CDL plug and got no dash indicators as well, bleh!
View attachment 2613522View attachment 2613523View attachment 2613524

Cheers

One switch on each axel housing, one on center diff lock. Where do the other two go?

 

[SNLC]

One switch on each axel housing, one on center diff lock. Where do the other two go?

Back of Tcase.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Did you plug it into an empty fuse spot? Mine is in the cig outlet and wires everywhere.

No the Scangauge is plugged into the OB2 port which I moved the port inside the dash.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Forgot to mention I got this in about a week ago.

Have not bought a Ballistic product in over ten years, this is a sweet chunk of metal though. No idea when I will get around to installing it.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Went wheeling yesterday.

Really need some sliders, I bagged on the MT and ordered some WKO instead. Really need a rear bumper, more lift and bigger rubber.

Rained hard here today, my windshield leaks. New OEM coming.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

So I get a lot of questions via email, pm or even in person about what it cost me to build the 1FZ in my Cruiser. I thought about starting a thread on this subject showing cost for an all new engine and some alternative cheaper routes. I decided I will just post the info here for anyone who wants it.

These are all new OEM parts from Toyota unless otherwise noted. I am pulling most of this off the top of my head so don’t assume these numbers are set in stone and also parts are going NLA fast.

-Short block: $3700
-bare head: $1800
-cams: $500 each so $1000
-head parts like valves and springs: $700
-full engine gasket kit: $250
-ARP head studs: $250
-machine shop work to head to tip valves vs all new shims: $300
-harmonic balancer: $300
-All sensors except the IAC and MAF: $1200 roughly
-all hoses with clamps: $350
-timing chain, guides, tensioner and gears: $200
-oil pump rotor set: $30
-oil cooler: $350
-fan clutch: $175
-dizzy cap, wires, rotor, plugs, igniter & coil: $450 roughly
-water pump: $75
-power steering pump: $450
-valve cover: $200
-Filters (fuel, oil, air): $115
-misc seals not in engine kit: $50
-heater valve & hoses/clamps: $115
-throttle cable: $50
-EGR and VSV valves: $320
-engine wiring harness: $525
-TRad radiator: $500
-A/C condenser: $150
-A/C compressor: $300
-Alternator: $300 (Mean Green, Remanned Denso is about $100 cheaper
-Starter: $200 (remanned Denso cost)
-idler pulleys: $100
-rebuilt injectors: $150
-misc items such as oil relief valves, belts, hardware like exhaust manifold studs& flywheel bolts: $200
-oil for break in and first oil change: $100+
-Y-pipe and forward cat: $1600
-Otramm SS cat back: $2,000
-P/S high/low pressure hoses: $200
-Trans cooler lines: $50
-Engine & trans mounts: $250
-A/C recharge: $100
-Toyota red coolant: $65
*TOTAL: over $19k

I also did the following at the same time,
-Rebuilt fuel tank (pump, pickup screen, sending unit and misc parts): $300-ish
-RedHead rebuilt steering box with 105 goodies: $1000

Well over $20k in parts and I know I am missing a few things that is an easy $200-500. It is no joke money wise if you want an all new 1FZ in your 80.

We have done a few for cheaper for customers, rebuilding the head for example vs all new and other areas we could shave cost. They are still well over $10k in parts and closer to $15k.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Had the Cruiser out over last weekend.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

The Carne Asada tacos were particularly good.

Over all a good test for the Cruiser. It’s 50 miles of hwy at 80mph then almost 100 miles through the desert on gravel roads at 50-60mph and then some snow wheeling at the end. A bit early in the season to do the intended trail and loop which drops into a big canyon, camping on the river with some fun wheeling and a good ford as well. Just to much snow right now, about a month early as it is down in the Nevada-Idaho border at about 7,000ft. We were the first ones in though this year and it’s always fun breaking trail in the spring snow conditions. We did drop into a smaller canyon while a bunch of jeepers stood around and said no way. Normally this section of the trail is driving down a creek in the bottom of the canyon but it was still frozen which made for some fun wheeling too. Once it was pushing 2ft deep it was game over for us but we did get close to either side of the big canyon. Opted for camping lower down on the river where most normal folks camp, had it all to ourselves though.

My engine rocks hard, loving every minute of driving it. Diff locks all good and in and out fast. Brakes are excellent on my Cruiser. Shocks are not bad but I do and can get them hot, the coils are fine just pretty low lift.

Other areas of the Cruiser need attention and I need-am going up in tire size soon.

Cheers