1993 HZJ77 - Brake parts?

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Joined
May 8, 2024
Threads
6
Messages
13
Location
Rocky River, OH
Hi,
I purchased a 93' HZJ77 about 2 years ago. And on my last oil change the mechanic told me that the front brake pads, rotors, and wheel bearings need to be redone.

The parts he said I needed to order were:

Brake Pad Set
2 Rotors
wheel bearing 2 inner + 2 outer for the 2 sets

Looking for guidance on part numbers and where to order from?

Thank you in advance for any help you can provide : )
IMG_0855.webp
 
Partsouq.com is a good place to get part numbers:


There are vendors listed in the 70 series forum, your local Toyota dealer or Partsouq.com

Even EBay has 70 series parts.
 
Hi
Apparently your mechanic would first need a workshop manual to understand what this job involves.
Basically you are looking at a full knuckle job.
You would also need the oil seals for the axle and for the knuckles (covering the bearings).
Also several paper gaskets are needed. Also you should get a new lock washer (starts washer or whatever this thing is called).

This is a typical 'While you are in there' situation.
I suggest to prepare for replacing the steering knuckle bearings and the axle shaft bearing / bronze bushing, too. You should also consider replacing the wheel studs. Also a closer look at the steering rod ends is adviced. And you should also do the oil seal / felt on the chrome ball.

You can find the parts diagrams and part numbers at partsouq.com or amayama.com (enter you VIN to get the right model). The diagrams there also help understand how the entire knuckle actually comes together.
You don't necessarily need to buy the stuff there. There are competent dealers here in ih8mud that can make sure you got everything you need state side.

Here is a video that helps understand what you are looking at..:


Good Luck Ralf
 
Well, OK, admittedly you can stop at the spindle and just do the brake disc, bearings (with oilseal, flange / freewheel hub paper gasket, locking washer), probably studs, but it really is a 'While I'm in there' thing.. Your decision..
Cheers Ralf
 
Cruiser Outfitters likely has a kit for your model with everything you’ll need for a knuckle rebuild. That said, it’s possible your wheel bearings just need an adjustment.
 
Agree with @Felde, it really is a 'while you're in there' type of job, which will require more parts than your mechanic stated. It's straightforward but messy, so like @Guyute mentioned make sure you have lots of paper towels on hand and then add a few more if you decide to tackle it.

In addition to Partsouq, Amayama has very competitive pricing, usually the lowest in my experience. Megazip and Yoshi Parts are a couple other vendors. Cruiser Outfitters/Cruiser Teq will also have what you need.
 
Based on my experience, I would start with CruiserOutfitters. Give them a call and they can guide you through what parts will be required. Many of these items are available through them or your local Toyota dealership. I typically use the overseas vendors as my last resort, not because they aren’t capable and reliable, but because the pricing fluctuations with tariffs can be significant. In summary, all are good options but I found starting “local” is a bit more direct and one can talk to someone if you need additional guidance since this is your first go around with this job.

Good luck and hope this helps.

Cheers, James
 
No problem, we'll have it all!

Brake Pad Set
2 Rotors
wheel bearing 2 inner + 2 outer for the 2 sets

Easy! We can help with 100% of that @ Cruiser Outfitters and ship it today!

Pads: (order 1 set)
OEM: Front Brake Pads - Fits 1990+ 7x Series & 1989-1995 Truck/4Runner (BR60030F) - https://cruiserteq.com/front-brake-pads-fits-1990-7x-series-1989-1995-truck-4runner-br60030f/
or
AISIN: Front Brake Pads - Fits 1990+ 7x Series & 1989-1995 Truck/4Runner (ADVICS) - https://cruiserteq.com/front-brake-pads-fits-1990-7x-series-1989-1995-truck-4runner-advics/

Rotors:
2 x Brake Rotor - Fits 8/1980 - 1/1990 4x/6x/ & 11/1984 - 7/1999 7x Series (BRR60100) - https://cruiserteq.com/brake-rotor-fits-8-1980-1-1990-4x-6x-11-1984-7-1999-7x-series-brr60100/

Wheel Bearings:
2 x Front Wheel Bearing Kit - Fits 1990-1997 7X & 80/81 Series & LX450 - Koyo (FAWB9097K) - https://cruiserteq.com/front-wheel-bearing-kit-fits-1990-1997-7x-80-81-series-lx450-koyo-fawb9097k/

Assuming you have e-hubs, order these too:

2 x Outer Wheel Seal - OEM Toyota - Fits 7x w/E-Hubs (2 Required per Vehicle) (HG62003) - https://cruiserteq.com/outer-wheel-seal-oem-toyota-fits-7x-w-e-hubs-2-required-per-vehicle-hg62003/
2 x Electric Hub Face Gasket - OEM Toyota - Fits (2 Required per Axle) (HG60030) - https://cruiserteq.com/electric-hub-face-gasket-oem-toyota-fits-2-required-per-axle-hg60030/
2 x Rear Wheel Hub Gasket - Fits 8/1992 - 1/1998 Full-Float 8x Applications (RA60040) - https://cruiserteq.com/rear-wheel-hub-gasket-fits-8-1992-1-1998-full-float-8x-applications-ra60040/
 
Incredibly helpful! Thank you so much, I already placed my order! One more thing if you wouldn't mind -
One of the other replies mentioned this,
"Basically you are looking at a full knuckle job.
You would also need the oil seals for the axle and for the knuckles (covering the bearings).
Also several paper gaskets are needed. Also you should get a new lock washer (starts washer or whatever this thing is called).

This is a typical 'While you are in there' situation.
I suggest to prepare for replacing the steering knuckle bearings and the axle shaft bearing / bronze bushing, too. You should also consider replacing the wheel studs. Also a closer look at the steering rod ends is advised. And you should also do the oil seal / felt on the chrome ball."

After reading this, I wanted to ask if I plan to have my mechanic do all this while "he's in there", are these all the parts that I should order. Thank you again!
 
Last edited:
This is a typical 'While you are in there' situation.
I suggest to prepare for replacing the steering knuckle bearings and the axle shaft bearing / bronze bushing, too. You should also consider replacing the wheel studs. Also a closer look at the steering rod ends is adviced. And you should also do the oil seal / felt on the chrome ball."
This was originally my comment.
Those items (except wheel studs, those sit in the rotors flange) require removing the knuckles (What I called 'going 'beyond the spindle'). I'd only do that, if serious wear is suspected or obvious. If not, just fix the rotors and don't touch the knuckles.
Here is how to judge things:

Tierod ends can be inspected from outside.
- Check the rubber of the ball joints in the steering gear for cracks or holes. If the rubber is cracked, hard or torn, the joint needs to be replaced.
- With the wheels on the ground, move the steering and observe the ball joints in the steering gear for any play. No play: Nothing needs to be done. If there is play, options to fix it depend on where the play is: The links may be adjustable (it's the case if there is a cotterpin across the end). The ball joints on the knuckle steering arm can't be adjusted; if those have play, replacing those is adviced.
- Some joints are greasable. If you have those, greasing them should be part of your service routine.

The knuckle bearings sit top and bottom of the knuckle and allow it to pivot. Those may need adjustment or replacement if there is excessive play (or if you need to go into the knuckle anyways). Severe play in those bearings leads to squashy or steering and uneven tyre wear. Play and wear of those is hard to diagnose, though. You mainly do those bearings as preventive maintenance once you digg into the knuckles anyway for a full rebuild. ('While you are in there anyways').

If the oilseal in the axle is shot, diff oil makes it into the knuckle and eventually a messy mixture of grease and oil seeps out at the chrome ball felt seal.
A shot axle seal requires a full knuckle job to get fixed.
A healthy knuckle has a light coat of grease on the chrome ball, but no big oily mess there.
They shouldn't be bone dry either...
There should be Moly grease in the knuckle. There is a 1/2 inch square plug on the top of the knuckle to check / top up grease. Should be part of the service routine.
Chrome ball with grease on the bottom and dry further up indicates not enough grease in the knuckle.
You may post pics of the chromeballs here and we'll see.

The bronce bushing / needle bearing sits in the spindle and guides the drive shaft from the CV joint. It gets greased from the above mentioned grease in the knuckle.
If it's worn, there mostly will be vibrations in the front driveline at higher speeds, when 4x4 is engaged.

If the chrome balls look healthy/ no oily mess, and if there is no permanent servicing issue (lack of knuckle grease) suspected, and if the 4x4 in front works without vibrations, I wouldn't go beyond the spindle and do the rotors only.
(I hope you can trust your mechanic in his diagnose)

Good Luck Ralf
 
Incredibly helpful! Thank you so much, I already placed my order! One more thing if you wouldn't mind -
One of the other replies mentioned this,
"Basically you are looking at a full knuckle job.
You would also need the oil seals for the axle and for the knuckles (covering the bearings).
Also several paper gaskets are needed. Also you should get a new lock washer (starts washer or whatever this thing is called).

This is a typical 'While you are in there' situation.
I suggest to prepare for replacing the steering knuckle bearings and the axle shaft bearing / bronze bushing, too. You should also consider replacing the wheel studs. Also a closer look at the steering rod ends is advised. And you should also do the oil seal / felt on the chrome ball."

After reading this, I wanted to ask if I plan to have my mechanic do all this while "he's in there", are these all the parts that I should order. Thank you again!

For the all-in knuckle overhaul kit, order this (again assuming E-Hub)

If you’ve already ordered parts, you’ll have a few redundant seals and gaskets BUT those are good to have on hand for future bearing re-packs, brake jobs, etc.

If you want to replace spindle bushings:

Tie Rod Ends:
 
For the all-in knuckle overhaul kit, order this (again assuming E-Hub)

If you’ve already ordered parts, you’ll have a few redundant seals and gaskets BUT those are good to have on hand for future bearing re-packs, brake jobs, etc.

If you want to replace spindle bushings:

Tie Rod Ends:
Perfect, all parts ordered. Thank you again for all your help!!
 
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