1993 FZJ80 startup problem (1 Viewer)

Joined
Jun 22, 2020
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26
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Florida
Thanks for the info. As far as I can tell there's no alarm system. I can't find anything in the manual that talks about one and I don't see an aftermarket install. I think I'll replace both battery cables and see if that works.
 

ppc

M Go Blue
Joined
Aug 18, 2003
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Nashville, TN
 
 
 
The alarm systems were port installed after arrival into the country therefore not documented in the owner's manual. Have you checked under the drivers seat as most alarm modules were installed in that location. There is also a glass breakage sensor/activation led located in one of the blanks on the dash to the left of the steering wheel in 93 models.
 
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Jun 22, 2020
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Florida
I did look under the seat, nothing there. Just went to look to the left of the steering wheel, all the blanks are still blanks. The only thing over there is the mirror control and dash dimmer. I have the original window sticker from new, nothing about any anti theft system. I know some things were installed on arrival but this one doesn't have keyless entry either.
 
Joined
Jul 19, 2006
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164
Location
Boulder, Co
 
 
Ok - here's a relatively simple diagnostic test. When this happens again, leave the key in the "run" or "on" position. Don't disconnect any cables anywhere, but clip a jumper wire onto the starter lug of the starter (this is the lug where the small diameter wire clips onto the starter. Not the big, heavy gauge wire.) If you turn the steering wheel all the way over, you can usually get enough room to wiggle in there and make that connection. Then, when you're ready, touch the other end of that wire to the positive terminal of the battery.

If it does not crank and start when you touch that wire to the starter, then it's very likely that the contacts inside the starter are probably old or worn, or it's a ground/positive battery cable. By doing this you've effectively bypassed the whole starter ignition switch - i.e. you've hotwired the starter.

But, if it does start, then the issue is in the ignition circuit.

The reason I suggest this is that you say the wires look fine so you've done the first good, solid bit of diagnosis. Best odds are to try another part of the system.
 
Joined
Jun 22, 2020
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Florida
That makes sense. I'll rig the jumper wire and put it in the truck and crawl under there so I know what I'm looking at when it happens again. Thanks.
 
Joined
Jun 22, 2020
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Florida
I just remembered something about the first time this happened. I thought it was a dead battery so I put a jumper box on it. It started but it took everything the box had and hot cables to do it. Let it run, shut it off and no start. I put a charger on it and the charger showed the battery wouldn't take a charge, so I think dead battery even though its new. My neighbor comes by, suggests taking the negative cable off and now the battery not only will take a charge but shows full charge and the battery tests 13 plus volts. Does that tell anybody anything ?
 
Joined
Dec 8, 2006
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New Jersey
 
 
I just remembered something about the first time this happened. I thought it was a dead battery so I put a jumper box on it. It started but it took everything the box had and hot cables to do it. Let it run, shut it off and no start. I put a charger on it and the charger showed the battery wouldn't take a charge, so I think dead battery even though its new. My neighbor comes by, suggests taking the negative cable off and now the battery not only will take a charge but shows full charge and the battery tests 13 plus volts. Does that tell anybody anything ?
Poor connection at battery terminals.
Internal failure in battery.

A fully charged automotive battery will read approx 12.7 VDC across the terminals. I'm assuming the 13+ reading was during charging.
The easiest and least invasive diagnostic is to simply replace the battery.

Again, simply looking at wires in order to discern connectivity is like looking at your refrigerator to measure temperature.
 
Joined
Jul 19, 2006
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Boulder, Co
 
 
That's a good clue. Given that it cranks strong, it starts to point away from weak battery or a battery that won't hold a charge.

I'd also venture that a bad ground cable or main positive cable running to the starter is less likely because if those are degraded, the typical symptom is a consistent weak crank, not an intermittent strong crank. But, if you still suspect those, you can also verify those with starter jumper cables run from the starter main (thick diameter wire) lug back to the positive battery post and same for grounding the body of the starter right to the negative battery post.
 
Joined
Jun 22, 2020
Messages
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Location
Florida
That's a good clue. Given that it cranks strong, it starts to point away from weak battery or a battery that won't hold a charge.

I'd also venture that a bad ground cable or main positive cable running to the starter is less likely because if those are degraded, the typical symptom is a consistent weak crank, not an intermittent strong crank. But, if you still suspect those, you can also verify those with starter jumper cables run from the starter main (thick diameter wire) lug back to the positive battery post and same for grounding the body of the starter right to the negative battery post.
That's a good clue. Given that it cranks strong, it starts to point away from weak battery or a battery that won't hold a charge.

I'd also venture that a bad ground cable or main positive cable running to the starter is less likely because if those are degraded, the typical symptom is a consistent weak crank, not an intermittent strong crank. But, if you still suspect those, you can also verify those with starter jumper cables run from the starter main (thick diameter wire) lug back to the positive battery post and same for grounding the body of the starter right to the negative battery post.
I’m in Indiana to watch some sprint cars this weekend so will let you know next week what I’m trying. Thanks
 
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Jun 22, 2020
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Florida
I'm finally getting back to looking at this problem. The good news is after 3 weeks sitting in the garage it started right up, so the problem still hasn't reoccurred . Early in this thread somebody mentioned looking at the fusible links, and I thought I did. I didn't. When I started in to getting ready to replace the battery cables I found the real fusible links and they look really rough. So I've ordered 2 fusible links and a new junction box and will replace those. It looks pretty straight forward. Any tricks to replacing those that will bite me ?
 
Joined
Nov 9, 2012
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Olathe, KS, USA
 
I'm finally getting back to looking at this problem. The good news is after 3 weeks sitting in the garage it started right up, so the problem still hasn't reoccurred . Early in this thread somebody mentioned looking at the fusible links, and I thought I did. I didn't. When I started in to getting ready to replace the battery cables I found the real fusible links and they look really rough. So I've ordered 2 fusible links and a new junction box and will replace those. It looks pretty straight forward. Any tricks to replacing those that will bite me ?
Should be really easy. Just try not to tweak your other wires when undoing the screws or plugs.
 
Joined
Jun 11, 2018
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Colorado
It cranks strong and starts right up.
What do your dash lights do when in no-crank status? Do they all dim or go off, regardless of key position?
If so, then do this...
Wire brush with some sort of cleaner the battery terminals and cable connectors. Get them shiny brass (pos) or silver (neg) again. Take them apart if possible (my pos connector can disassemble somewhat. The neg was the single-piece squishy lead-type)
Tighten back down.
Issue should never reappear unless the neg cable connector loosens for some reason.
I had this issue and the same exact fix - remove/replace the neg cable and issue is gone for a bit.
Dirty terminals was the culprit in my case.
 
Joined
May 3, 2016
Messages
990
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odessa, tx
Mine did this intermittently for a year or so. Until it left me stranded. I thought mine was the alarm. Most are under the seat but mine was up under the dash. After I ripped it out it still didn't start. To get home i ran a little jumper wire from the rear heater fuse to the efi fuse because it had no power with the key in run(may have been ecu fusewhichever one is above the rear heater fuse). Long story short, i needed a fusible link. Definitely replace the fusible links and keep an extra set in your truck. But its still possible you have an alarm under the dash.
 
Joined
Jun 22, 2020
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Florida
I keep looking for anti theft or alarm but haven't found anything. Where under the dash and what does it look like?
 
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odessa, tx

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Joined
Jun 22, 2020
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Florida
Thanks, I'll take a look. That's definitely not a factory item I'd say. I guess the dealers could have stuck them anywhere.
 

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