1990 LJ73 Diesel (1 Viewer)

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I am thinking about buying a Land cruiser import and was wondering about diesel engine 4 cylinder and u
 
Unless you are dead set on that LJ73, I would opt for the HZJ73 instead. Just my two cents. Parts support would be so much easier for the 1HZ from what I understand.
 
Unless you are dead set on that LJ73, I would opt for the HZJ73 instead. Just my two cents. Parts support would be so much easier for the 1HZ from what I understand.

2LTE/2LT-II was made until early 2000's, so there are a lot of them around. From my experience it's dead easy finding parts for the motor. The rest of the truck shares most of it's parts with other landcruisers or 4runners and is also easy to find parts for. The world is your oyster these days when it comes to finding JDM cruiser parts.... The motors that are getting a bit harder to find parts for now are basically the pre-1990 motors.

But yeah, buy a normally aspirated indirect injection (IDI) diesel, or a turbo direct injection (DI) diesel and you'll have a more reliable OEM motor. Toyota's turbo IDI motors are prone to cylinder head overheating (a function of adding a turbo to an IDI motor); especially because they are small displacement, so are always working hard. Adding an aftermarket turbo to the IDI motors can also cause head problems if you push them hard.
 
This is an import, obviously but I love the two door look, and the top comes off as well. It's only going to be a driver, pretty low stress on the engine. I've never had a diesel before, and it's hard to believe there is a bad Toyota engine. The 1990 is a more affordable than the earlier models, and these don't come up often.
 
I would only buy one if it was cheap and I had the ability to put a better diesel in it if the original suffered a catastrophic failure. Its one of the more uncommon members of the 7* series but parts are interchangeable with other models.

The top is not really designed to be taken off for the weekend. It has about 60 nuts and bolts and you need some chopped down doors, otherwise the rear doors will be at the same height as the front door.
IMO, the top is best left on if you want the interior to be kept nice. With the big rear side windows fully open, it can get a real airy feeling in there.

Do you know the exact engine designation? I think there is 4 varieties of the 2L engine if you count the non turbo version.
 
I would only buy one if it was cheap and I had the ability to put a better diesel in it if the original suffered a catastrophic failure. Its one of the more uncommon members of the 7* series but parts are interchangeable with other models.

The top is not really designed to be taken off for the weekend. It has about 60 nuts and bolts and you need some chopped down doors, otherwise the rear doors will be at the same height as the front door.
IMO, the top is best left on if you want the interior to be kept nice. With the big rear side windows fully open, it can get a real airy feeling in there.

Do you know the exact engine designation? I think there is 4 varieties of the 2L engine if you count the non turbo version.
No, he just says it's a turbo diesel....
 
It'll be 2LTE or 2LT-II depending on where it came from (Japan or Europe).
 
I would only buy one if it was cheap and I had the ability to put a better diesel in it if the original suffered a catastrophic failure. Its one of the more uncommon members of the 7* series but parts are interchangeable with other models.

The top is not really designed to be taken off for the weekend. It has about 60 nuts and bolts and you need some chopped down doors, otherwise the rear doors will be at the same height as the front door.
IMO, the top is best left on if you want the interior to be kept nice. With the big rear side windows fully open, it can get a real airy feeling in there.

Do you know the exact engine designation? I think there is 4 varieties of the 2L engine if you count the non turbo version.
60 nuts? Wow. The dealer said it would be easy after a couple of times!!
 
60 nuts? Wow. The dealer said it would be easy after a couple of times!!
It's closer to 20 bolts but you basically have to remove all the rear interior panel and pocket inserts to get to half of them. Plus from what I've been told if it's been on for a good while it's not likely to reseal when put back on. I've been meaning to take mine off and replace the windshield seal
 
It's closer to 20 bolts but you basically have to remove all the rear interior panel and pocket inserts to get to half of them. Plus from what I've been told if it's been on for a good while it's not likely to reseal when put back on. I've been meaning to take mine off and replace the windshield seal

Hello,

Keep in mind that old seals become hard and brittle, and will not seal properly when reassembled. You may have to replace them once you get the FRP top back on.

Four seals, including the one on top of the windshield.






Juan
 
It's closer to 20 bolts but you basically have to remove all the rear interior panel and pocket inserts to get to half of them. Plus from what I've been told if it's been on for a good while it's not likely to reseal when put back on. I've been meaning to take mine off and replace the windshield seal
Good to know, thx
 
The 73/74 come with removable hard top and factory soft top. The 70 is also a available with a factory soft top.

I have been looking for awhile now but I think all 73/74 factory soft tops are gassers. I could be wrong though but I have yet to see a FST 73/74 with diesel that came that way from the factory.

There is not even a katashiki code for a 73/74 FST with diesel anywhere that I can find so if any do pop up, they are probably converted from gasser.

Of course, the other option is to just install the OEM soft top on an existing factory diesel powered MWB 73/74 but that is not cheap at all ( to do properly ).
 
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If someone can make a soft top bow set and repro top I am sure they would sell. I would take one
 

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