1986 4Runner OM617 Swapped Diesel (1 Viewer)

Will Van

GOLD Star
Joined
Aug 18, 2017
Messages
1,983
Location
Austin, TX
I had been searching a long time for a good donor truck for an OM617 Mercedes turbo diesel swap. I had mostly been looking at pre-1995 Pickups with the gear-driven RF1A transfer case.

While cruising Facebook Marketplace I stumbled on a semi-local 1986 Toyota 4Runner that had already been swapped with a 1985 OM617. It was in decent shape, and the price was killer. This morning I drove to San Antonio and bought it.

The first order of business is to baseline the truck and fix a few issues. It needs a new battery, some wiring, and a horn. The steering wheel is also clocked 30° off center. It has a small oil leak at the back of the motor.

And I want to upgrade from the old 4x4Labs adapter to the Doomsday setup with heavyweight flywheel. I’ll install the R151F and dual case at the same time.

I’ll start shaking it down and fixing the most urgent issues.

Let me know what you guys think!
8-B7-AF7-ED-E8-DC-4180-8-B9-B-E3354766-D487.jpg

93718-D5-E-12-CE-422-C-88-B8-FDB4-E7-A6163-F.jpg


343-C9-C65-FD02-4-BE7-9-AB1-5096-F0047-D5-E.jpg


10-EA35-B0-9-CD6-469-F-9-A02-DBDD06-FEB99-F.jpg


C9-CE1176-9-B27-4583-859-D-9-A0-E0-CCB047-E.jpg
 
Last edited:
Joined
Aug 22, 2015
Messages
1,576
Location
Ohio
Nice score - especially with the diesel in already. No vacuum on the IP at all? How does the motor shut down?

I have a 1985 300SD and I'm considering the oil filter housing relocation kit just because of the location considering how often I change the oil.

Since you mentioned the start of your quest for a first gen I've been looking. Prices of first gens are absolutely out of control up here.
 

Will Van

GOLD Star
Joined
Aug 18, 2017
Messages
1,983
Location
Austin, TX
Nice score - especially with the diesel in already. No vacuum on the IP at all? How does the motor shut down?

I have a 1985 300SD and I'm considering the oil filter housing relocation kit just because of the location considering how often I change the oil.

Since you mentioned the start of your quest for a first gen I've been looking. Prices of first gens are absolutely out of control up here.

Thanks so much! I paid $4,800 for the truck. I figured, I couldn't even find a regular 1st gen 4Runner for that price. Let alone a diesel-swapped 4Runner. Granted, it needs some work. But that's the fun part for me anyway.

I think the PO deleted vacuum to the ALDA unit. But the motor still shuts down via vacuum. It has a vacuum solenoid mounted near the brake booster. And it uses a Ford starter relay for manual glow plugs. TBH, I haven't inspected the wiring or vacuum routing under the hood too much yet. I imagine there are several things I will overhaul once I get into it. But for now, all I know is that it works. :rofl:

I agree, prices for all classic Toyota 4x4s are rising. I am hoping I can find a clean solid-axle '84 or '85 4Runner with a blown motor. I've seen a couple of them going for $1,500 to $3,000. I can continue to make modifications to my '86, and then swap over all of my goodies to the solid axle truck.
 
Last edited:

Will Van

GOLD Star
Joined
Aug 18, 2017
Messages
1,983
Location
Austin, TX
@Prairie Swamp - Here are photos of the vacuum shutoff and Ford glow-plug solenoid.

Ford glow plug solenoid
4-DF0304-A-7-F36-4-E0-F-84-E4-93-DF831-F4861.jpg


IP vacuum shutoff "mounted" on the brake master cylinder hardline. It is nice that it has a manual plunger override.
47-C809-C4-F806-46-A6-94-E9-CF50-B3-C282-FD.jpg


The routing to the back of the injection pump. Alternatively, you could run it to the ALDA port (capped in this photo), but I'm glad PO did not, because I'm going to delete ALDA. I will probably delete the plastic transmission switchover valve (yellow switch behind ALDA) at the same time since it's segregated from the vacuum system anyway.
2507-D439-56-FF-46-CB-8-A76-BE5-DEDD17-E9-F.jpg


And the routing from the vacuum pump on the front of the motor.
7-FB8-E086-55-A1-4-EDF-8-D8-A-D3-C6-B2-BA62-CC.jpg


I believe PO ran the vacuum line to the port labeled "Shutdown Vacuum Pod" in this photo.
Shut-Down-Vacuum-Pod.jpg
 
Last edited:
Joined
Aug 22, 2015
Messages
1,576
Location
Ohio
Thanks for the pics! Looks like a pretty clean install all things considered. The Ford starter solenoid works but the engineer in me wants the glow plug system to function factory like (the colder it is the longer it glows, plus glow while cranking.) A glow plug relay ($) came with my spare motor so I'll likely utilize it when I get around to a swap.

Dreaming here but I'd like to use my car as a test bed for power upgrades looking forward to a swap into my FJ62. With a turbo and pump upgrade guys are building enough power to bend rods. But stock torque and power would be fine for a 4Runner I would think.

Nice project!
 

Will Van

GOLD Star
Joined
Aug 18, 2017
Messages
1,983
Location
Austin, TX
Thanks for the pics! Looks like a pretty clean install all things considered. The Ford starter solenoid works but the engineer in me wants the glow plug system to function factory like (the colder it is the longer it glows, plus glow while cranking.) A glow plug relay ($) came with my spare motor so I'll likely utilize it when I get around to a swap.

Dreaming here but I'd like to use my car as a test bed for power upgrades looking forward to a swap into my FJ62. With a turbo and pump upgrade guys are building enough power to bend rods. But stock torque and power would be fine for a 4Runner I would think.

Nice project!

I actually like the manual glow plug system. It acts as an additional security feature. And I never have a problem with cold temps in Texas.

I agree...I may be using the '86 as a test bed for a solid axle truck. I really want an '84 or '85 Pickup/4Runner. I can dial most things in on the '86 until I find a better 84/85, then swap everything over.

Supposedly the '86 rear axle is more desireable because it is wider. And a lot of people do an IFS hub-swap onto the front of a solid axle truck (to match the rear), so they can run IFS wheels. Same thing with steering - people prefer the '86 crossover to the '84/'85 push/pull. Basically, I could take the best parts off both trucks, and build the truck the way I want.

For the OM617, it is my understanding that with an intercooler, upgraded pump, and upgraded turbo, 200 rwhp and 300 rwtq is realistic and reliable.
 
Last edited:

Will Van

GOLD Star
Joined
Aug 18, 2017
Messages
1,983
Location
Austin, TX
It didn't take me long to start wrenching on the 4Runner. I cleaned up the wiring for the rear taillights. There were not one, but TWO, aftermarket trailer light wiring harnesses spliced into the rear lights. It was a huge mess, and I'm glad it's gone. I still need to figure out the reverse lights though.
E2-E64927-D613-4-A99-9-A6-B-7-B5692-DFAD5-E.jpg

7626-A10-B-38-F0-4958-AE7-C-B872-B9-FE6-E2-D.jpg

A0-A57-A43-22-E5-4-FA9-BBA2-5-F0-D83-DB1-BCE.jpg


The battery wiring under the hood also needed work. The PO reused the old battery, but relocated it to the driver's side. This meant that the positive battery post was dangerously close to the fender. I swapped to the larger group 24 battery, and pickup up the "R" version with the positive post to the inside of the truck. I also took the time to install some military terminals. I still need to pick up the proper cable lug crimping tool and fabricate a battery tie-down, but this is way better than before.
1-B67-ADD8-4-EB2-4-F58-BC58-8-B2516-CAD31-A.jpg



Finally, the best mod is the ALDA delete. The ALDA is an emissions-control device found on the OM617s. It uses boost reference to limit the amount of fuel provided by the IP until the turbo starts making boost. The problem is that the engine is completely neutered below boost. It is difficult/dangerous to drive, because there is no torque off idle. My ALDA was already isolated by the previous owner, so all I had to do was remove the ALDA and install the Doomsday delete cap. I went ahead and removed the vacuum switching valve (yellow plastic component) from the IP at the same time, because it's for the Mercedes automatic trans, and obviously we're not using that any more.

Before
2507-D439-56-FF-46-CB-8-A76-BE5-DEDD17-E9-F.jpg


After
EB29-C85-E-A1-BE-484-C-9-A35-F65-CD0-E1-FF60.jpg


The truck is now a dream to drive. Way easier to accelerate and merge into traffic. And I'm not constantly downshifting to keep the engine in boost with every slight incline. It should be your first mod for any OM617 swap.

Also, don't worry @SMG, my next mission is to remove the 4Runner top, pack up your fuel tank, and go for a drive (with a brief stop at FedEx)!
 

Will Van

GOLD Star
Joined
Aug 18, 2017
Messages
1,983
Location
Austin, TX
More wiring mess. After taking the top off and driving the truck all day Saturday, I realized that the alternator wasn’t charging the battery.
7-D3-E663-F-6619-4232-A1-AE-F629-AC6981-E5.jpg


Every time I would go to start the truck, it would turn over a little slower than before. I inspected the wiring once I got home and realized the alternator charge-wire to the battery, and the ground, were severely undersized. Gauge 12/10 for both. I should have double-checked with a VOM, but I knew the wiring needed to be replaced, so I just started ripping it out.

Ground gauge 12
26-CFA537-ED31-42-AF-86-FE-26827608353-D.jpg


Charge wire goes from gauge 10 to gauge 12
84-CD1-B79-B04-F-4500-9-EB2-1-D6394041637.jpg


17412389-6-BA5-4-B4-A-A6-E1-AFB7789-C2379.jpg


I’m just waiting on a proper cable lug crimper, and then I’ll run new wiring with 4 AWG welding wire. It’s not perfect, but it will be way better than before. Afterwards, I can hook everything back up and test with VOM to see if the alternator is toast.
 
Joined
Oct 30, 2005
Messages
504
Location
Oregon
Thanks for posting about the ALDA delete. I’ve been waffling on whether to remove mine as I hate messing with a good running rig, but your brief description of the improvement has inspired me, thanks.
 
Joined
Aug 22, 2015
Messages
1,576
Location
Ohio
Another good thing to do is to connect a boost gage to see what you're actually making. Chances are the waste gate spring is weak after 35 to 40 years. Adjustment depends on the turbo model.
 

Will Van

GOLD Star
Joined
Aug 18, 2017
Messages
1,983
Location
Austin, TX
Thanks for posting about the ALDA delete. I’ve been waffling on whether to remove mine as I hate messing with a good running rig, but your brief description of the improvement has inspired me, thanks.

Happy to help. Mine was a dog below boost. I don’t know if the PO adjusted the pump, but it’s way better now.

Another good thing to do is to connect a boost gauge to see what you're actually making. Chances are the waste gate spring is weak after 35 to 40 years. Adjustment depends on the turbo model.

Yessir. I’d like to do boost pressure, EGT, water temp, oil pressure, and oil temp gauges. And it would be awesome to upgrade to a Holset turbo and 7.5mm pump.

But I’ve got tons of maintenance to do. Wiring, oil leaks, and suspension all need my time/money/attention first.
 

Will Van

GOLD Star
Joined
Aug 18, 2017
Messages
1,983
Location
Austin, TX
My Doomsday heavy flywheel came in! This thing is a monster. I think the package weighed 41lbs! It should use an R150F bellhousing and beefy 3.4 liter 5VZ-E 10” clutch assembly. It will be great for low RPM rock crawling and should make the truck smoother to drive.

E9-A04-C6-A-0652-4-B90-AB78-3-DF8-F9-DFB569.jpg


I’m also seriously considering buying this 4Runner and swapping everything over. The OM617 is badass. But the 4Runner the PO swapped it into is really rough. Nothing works and it needs tons of TLC. It might be more economical to start with a cleaner truck. Houston truck has a 3.0 liter with a bad valve at a minimum, so perfect candidate for engine swap.


For Sale - Houston: 1988 Toyota 4Runner SR5 (Not Mine)

1988-4-Runner.jpg
 
Last edited:

Will Van

GOLD Star
Joined
Aug 18, 2017
Messages
1,983
Location
Austin, TX
Well, I was going to replace the CVs today, but after pulling the wheels, I realized the truck needs a significant amount of brake and suspension work.

I don’t think the pads are fully contacting the rotors. And I think the rotors are done.
E63-E95-FC-EF09-496-F-89-C9-62-DBD7763067.jpg

B47-B6-C50-CD99-4-D2-A-A54-B-F1-B4660-AEB23.jpg

64-C1-A209-3-FCD-41-B7-A37-B-AC9177-A73-DA1.jpg


CV on Driver’s Side. I forgot to take a pic of the Passenger’s Side, but it was similar.
64254-C9-B-5177-4-DFA-831-D-57-C472-A8-EE53.jpg


Anybody think the shock bushing is worn out?
E7-DC15-FE-580-F-4-D97-8-DD0-3-F2970-C04-A40.jpg


The truck has 1” ball-joint spacers too.
BE5-D3-E1-B-A4-F3-4-A19-A9-C0-955-BB950-AD9-D.jpg


And I pulled the wheel spacers off. I didn’t see any reason to keep them. Plenty of clearance to the caliper and tie rod.
0-D3-CBE85-C70-B-4-B9-F-86-A2-462-A7556-E12-A.jpg


I already knew the rear suspension needed to be replaced. I may go ahead and bite the bullet and get a full OME suspension kit and new bushings.

I’m also contemplating doing a later model V6 rotor/caliper upgrade, as well as the oversized master cylinder, dual-diaphragm booster, and proportioning valve.

Plus new tires and an alignment.
 
Joined
Oct 30, 2005
Messages
504
Location
Oregon
Sounds like you are getting sucked into vortex of replacing a lot of parts, you might have been better off upgrading to the the red truck.

iI went ahead and installed the Doomsday ALDA delete on mine, and the results were exactly as you said. It really drives better around town, can’t wait to take it on the highway.

thanks again and good luck on yours
 

Will Van

GOLD Star
Joined
Aug 18, 2017
Messages
1,983
Location
Austin, TX
Sounds like you are getting sucked into vortex of replacing a lot of parts, you might have been better off upgrading to the the red truck.

iI went ahead and installed the Doomsday ALDA delete on mine, and the results were exactly as you said. It really drives better around town, can’t wait to take it on the highway.

thanks again and good luck on yours

You're right - I'm fully in the vortex: CVs, rear suspension, front brakes, front shocks, battery, ALDA delete, rear tailgate latch, wiring, tires, etc. At this point, I'm just trying to replace parts that would easily transfer over if I find another clean donor 1st gen. I still have my eye on the red one. Now I'm looking at turbos and injection pumps!

I'm glad you were pleased with the ALDA delete.
 

Will Van

GOLD Star
Joined
Aug 18, 2017
Messages
1,983
Location
Austin, TX
Installed new CVs, front Bilstein 4600 shocks, front brakes, and deleted the rear Zuk mod helper coil springs. And swapped to 2.5” rear OME leafs. Plus an alignment. It probably needs new tires. It pulls a little to the right.

87-F81-C01-D057-4580-BB5-B-B0-F7353-D29-BF.jpg


2-BBD9-C02-508-B-423-C-8-F9-F-752-FDB01-FFBF.jpg


F242-AC86-96-A6-4732-A021-EFBE732-DAC2-C.jpg



023-D1-CAB-C29-B-4-CE5-A6-B8-E94-A99-F53212.jpg
 

Will Van

GOLD Star
Joined
Aug 18, 2017
Messages
1,983
Location
Austin, TX
Where’s the E-locker pics?

I am working on it. I want to build a full spare axle with e-locker, disc brakes, full float, and drive flanges. Then swap the whole axle assembly at once.
 
Last edited:

Users who are viewing this thread

Top Bottom