1984 FJ60 - replacement battery terminals and wiring (1 Viewer)

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May 28, 2022
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Location
Toronto
Hi there - I'm looking to replace the battery terminals and wiring in my '84 FJ60. The terminals are corroded and the grounding wire on one of the batteries is very frayed.

I found replacement wires on SOR, but they're really expensive, and used. I'd rather just buy something aftermarket. I'm trying to figure out what gauge of wire I need.


It's basically parts 40, 41, 43 on this diagram.

If anyone can help I would really appreciate it! I noticed an issue when I was having some trouble with the cruiser starting inconsistently - seemed to be electrical as sometimes the electrical system simply wouldn't fire. I ended up determining it was more likely the starter ignition switch, which I replaced with a replica of the OEM part from SOR. That seemed to address the issue, but I still want to replace the battery terminals and wiring. My 60 has two batteries.

Cheers
 
Hi there - I'm looking to replace the battery terminals and wiring in my '84 FJ60. The terminals are corroded and the grounding wire on one of the batteries is very frayed.

I found replacement wires on SOR, but they're really expensive, and used. I'd rather just buy something aftermarket. I'm trying to figure out what gauge of wire I need.


It's basically parts 40, 41, 43 on this diagram.

If anyone can help I would really appreciate it! I noticed an issue when I was having some trouble with the cruiser starting inconsistently - seemed to be electrical as sometimes the electrical system simply wouldn't fire. I ended up determining it was more likely the starter ignition switch, which I replaced with a replica of the OEM part from SOR. That seemed to address the issue, but I still want to replace the battery terminals and wiring. My 60 has two batteries.

Cheers
Couple of Mud vendors have great battery cables replacements, do a quick search…. Easy find…
 
Couple of Mud vendors have great battery cables replacements, do a quick search…. Easy find…


I found these, but they're $130 a piece, plus shipping. I think I need 4. Do people think the cables are so special you can't just use generic cables/terminals? It's the difference between a ~$50 repair and $500+. Also I'm in Canada and cross-border shipping right now can be delayed and I was hoping to just pick something up in town.
 

I found these, but they're $130 a piece, plus shipping. I think I need 4. Do people think the cables are so special you can't just use generic cables/terminals? It's the difference between a ~$50 repair and $500+. Also I'm in Canada and cross-border shipping right now can be delayed and I was hoping to just pick something up in town.
Type this into the search bar, “

FJ60/FJ62 Heavy Duty Battery Cable Sets”,,,, best if you replace all associated battery cables as a set,,, you won’t regret it.​

 
@poubelle , first off, welcome to this crazy train :flipoff2: :flipoff2: from one canuck to another.
re: your wires n terminals. build your own. i've had good success buying battery cable by the foot n terminals as required. no, not from crappy tire. peavey mart is a little better. i feel the best source is your local heavy truck/equipment parts house. also, don't shy away from stepping up in gauge of wire.
where abouts in the big city are you?
 
@poubelle

If you go to Rockauto.com there's all kinds of cheap 4 ga replacement cable. They ship to Can no problem. However, with an almost 40 year old vehicle, might be time to upgrade to 0 ga. Matt's cables are hand-made with the proper marine grade terminals and lugs.

If you just want to replace what's on your truck, get the part #s from Rockauto and take them to your local equivalent of NAPA. You'll have to put a ring terminal on the Fusible link to connect to new terminal or cable.
 
Hi there - I'm looking to replace the battery terminals and wiring in my '84 FJ60. The terminals are corroded and the grounding wire on one of the batteries is very frayed.

I found replacement wires on SOR, but they're really expensive, and used. I'd rather just buy something aftermarket. I'm trying to figure out what gauge of wire I need.


It's basically parts 40, 41, 43 on this diagram.

If anyone can help I would really appreciate it! I noticed an issue when I was having some trouble with the cruiser starting inconsistently - seemed to be electrical as sometimes the electrical system simply wouldn't fire. I ended up determining it was more likely the starter ignition switch, which I replaced with a replica of the OEM part from SOR. That seemed to address the issue, but I still want to replace the battery terminals and wiring. My 60 has two batteries.

Cheers

@ToyotaMatt to the Teq courtesy phone
@poubelle

If you go to Rockauto.com there's all kinds of cheap 4 ga replacement cable. They ship to Can no problem. However, with an almost 40 year old vehicle, might be time to upgrade to 0 ga. Matt's cables are hand-made with the proper marine grade terminals and lugs.

If you just want to replace what's on your truck, get the part #s from Rockauto and take them to your local equivalent of NAPA. You'll have to put a ring terminal on the Fusible link to connect to new terminal or cable.
Type this into the search bar, “

FJ60/FJ62 Heavy Duty Battery Cable Sets”,,,, best if you replace all associated battery cables as a set,,, you won’t regret it.​


I found these, but they're $130 a piece, plus shipping. I think I need 4. Do people think the cables are so special you can't just use generic cables/terminals? It's the difference between a ~$50 repair and $500+. Also I'm in Canada and cross-border shipping right now can be delayed and I was hoping to just pick something up in town.



- you do NOT need 4 Battery Cables to be clear


- there only 2

- a positive and a negative


- there is a 2nd Ground of sorts called Cable Bond No. 1 , it is a short ground cable from you lower starter bolt to your frame rail , is this a battery cable ?

technically NO , but it needs to be in place and in good working order for proper high out put function of your 84 FJ60's Gear Reduction starter motor


- my cables are indeed " Special " in the respect i hand assemble each one using 100% Toyota Genuine Parts and 100% ANCHOR marine grade tinned find strand copper wire bumped up 1 Gauge or size spec. larger then the original ones you may have going bad on you now after 30+ years .......

- my cables all come with Toyota genuine parts serviceable terminals and oem rubber boots in the case of you B+ Positive cable

- all Needed oem mounting hardware also included

- ANCHOR Marine Brand Adhesive lined heat shrink tubing is applied to ALL terminal LUG ends

- if you want to address this battery cables topic 1 time and not have to deal with it again for the foreseeable future , then my Japan Spec. marine grade sealed cables
are a good choice to consider ........



- below are the 3 links to the cable Bond no. 1 starter ground strap cable and each main battery cable too

-
please feel to PM me if you have additional questions


kindly matt













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#1 issue I run into with Toyota electric is grounding. When I swap a truck part of the package are all new battery cables.

Grounds-Body next to battery, Frame, Engine block, Radiator, Block to fire wall
Dedicated ground back to battery for fuel pump
Dedicated ground Batt to Bus panel in Interior kick panel
Dedicated ground to Bussman Fuse Block

Do not skimp on wire gauge
 
Thank you everyone for the help! I really appreciate it.

I’ll get these replaced, but not sure it will fully solve my issue actually.

My fj60 is diesel. the previous owner told me i need to always cycle the glow plugs to get it to start, even when its hot. sometimes, the glow plugs wont cycle. i tried replacing the starter ignition switch bc it seemed like it wasnt firing an electrical signal. I think that was a good replacement, and its firing an electrical signal now, but they still won't turn on sometimes, even when its cold. i'm thinking of trying to replace the spark plugs relay.

also, theres a larger problem as to why it needs glow plugs to start while its hot... i was thinking maybe fuel pump is dirty and/or needs to be replaced.

I've put some thought into it, but i'm not a mechanic. the above could be totally wrong. All i can say is I need the glow plugs for it to start, and sometimes they wont turn on when i turn the key, whether the engine is hot or cold.

Any further help would be really appreciated.
 
@poubelle , first off, welcome to this crazy train :flipoff2: :flipoff2: from one canuck to another.
re: your wires n terminals. build your own. i've had good success buying battery cable by the foot n terminals as required. no, not from crappy tire. peavey mart is a little better. i feel the best source is your local heavy truck/equipment parts house. also, don't shy away from stepping up in gauge of wire.
where abouts in the big city are you?
Thanks bud! I'm downtown on the east side.
 
#1 issue I run into with Toyota electric is grounding. When I swap a truck part of the package are all new battery cables.

Grounds-Body next to battery, Frame, Engine block, Radiator, Block to fire wall
Dedicated ground back to battery for fuel pump
Dedicated ground Batt to Bus panel in Interior kick panel
Dedicated ground to Bussman Fuse Block

Do not skimp on wire gauge
There's a ground wire from battery to the interior fuse panel, or is that something you add, rather than grounding from fuse panel to bodywork? I've been considering a new 12VDC run from batt+ to fuse panel ... but the idea of a dedicated batt- run is intriguing. Every bit of original wire in all of our old trucks I'm sure is at least partially corroded if not in terrible shape.
 
I learned a lot wiring boats. First off, run the largest gauge primary wire that will make the bends required to install. Thinking is you are making a sacrifice to the corrosion gods. Second, you always run grounds in boats, I do the same on trucks.
 
Thank you everyone for the help! I really appreciate it.

I’ll get these replaced, but not sure it will fully solve my issue actually.

My fj60 is diesel. the previous owner told me i need to always cycle the glow plugs to get it to start, even when its hot. sometimes, the glow plugs wont cycle. i tried replacing the starter ignition switch bc it seemed like it wasnt firing an electrical signal. I think that was a good replacement, and its firing an electrical signal now, but they still won't turn on sometimes, even when its cold. i'm thinking of trying to replace the spark plugs relay.

also, theres a larger problem as to why it needs glow plugs to start while its hot... i was thinking maybe fuel pump is dirty and/or needs to be replaced.

I've put some thought into it, but i'm not a mechanic. the above could be totally wrong. All i can say is I need the glow plugs for it to start, and sometimes they wont turn on when i turn the key, whether the engine is hot or cold.

Any further help would be really appreciated.
Ok, you say you have an 84 FJ60 and that its a diesel, and has two batteries. If it is a 1984 Canadian truck, it‘s a BJ60 (F being the designator for gasoline engines, B or H (4 or 6 cylinders) for diesel), they were fitted with a 3B diesel engine, with a 5 speed manual transmission, and the superglow glow plug system. No spark plug relay…. not on a diesel!
Look at your VIN number, maybe post a picture of the engine, and we will know what you are talking about, and may be able to help.
 
Ok, you say you have an 84 FJ60 and that its a diesel, and has two batteries. If it is a 1984 Canadian truck, it‘s a BJ60 (F being the designator for gasoline engines, B or H (4 or 6 cylinders) for diesel), they were fitted with a 3B diesel engine, with a 5 speed manual transmission, and the superglow glow plug system. No spark plug relay…. not on a diesel!
Look at your VIN number, maybe post a picture of the engine, and we will know what you are talking about, and may be able to help.
Exactly right!! Sorry for using the wrong terms. 84 Canadian truck, manual 5 speed diesel. 4 cylinder. Will post pics shortly!
 
VIN:
vin.jpg



Engine bay (if need pictures from other angles, please let me know):
e1.jpg
e5.jpg


Passenger side battery, showing positive terminal I am pointing to literally broken and held together with bolt + washers:
e2.jpg


Driver side battery, showing frayed negative wire which I will show more clearly in next photo:
e3.jpg
 
Yes, those battery clamps only last about 2-3 decades…. I had similar terminal cracks and while keeping the original cables, replaced the ends with crimped eyes, the last time i installed batteries. Used top end North Star AGM “marine“ batteries, as they also had threaded posts for excellent connections, gave me room to reuse the original cables and there is now no need for a left and right hand battery. They’ve been awesome. It might work for you, it did for me.
You most probably have Superglow, it’s a fairly complicated system, but is very easy to master operationally. Hopefully it is intact and working, it sounds like it might be. Search this site and read, study, and inwardly digest everything, there is a lot of good info out there (I posted a fair bit years ago).

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