1984 FJ60 Questions Prior to Purchase

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Oct 5, 2011
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On a Rocky Mountain High
Good Day. I have done a lot of searching on 60s and found some great info here. I am looking at a 1984 FJ60 4 speed manual for $2,000 and want to get some direct input on the issues I've seen before laying out cash (no matter how little).

Motor runs nicely, tranny shifts smoothly and 4wd seems to work well. Odometer/speedometer stopped working at about 172k and the PO estimates it has about 200k on it. She says the radiator is new and head gasket replaced. Here are the known mechanical issues:

Clutch? whine: When the clutch is engaged there is a whining sound that accelerates faster than the motor is revving changes pitch with speed. There is a slight grinding sound when using engine braking. The noise stops all together when the clutch is pushed in.

Coolant Leak: It has a constant drip though the fluid was full when I looked at it. Hard to pinpoint the location as it drips down the drivers side of the crankshaft pulley and gets slung everywhere. The oil is clean and not milky and the vehicle did not overheat at all while I ran it (about 45 minutes parked and driving). Searching the forum indicates it may be a bad water pump or thermostat seal.

There is only 1 spot of rust though the clear coat is mostly gone. It's a $2k truck so not that big a deal. Frame is great, tires are new and the thing rides like a freaking dream. So much better than my 89 4Runner.

So what say you? Any input is appreciated. Also, here is a video of the engine running off a cold start.




Thanks!
 
Buy it before the owner changes her mind! Any cruiser that runs and drives for less than 3000 is worth buying in my opinion, the collectors are driving the values up like crazy and it sucks.

The clutch noise would lead me to believe there is something up with the clutch disc itself, probably the original clutch so it's not that big of a deal IMO.

Coolant leak is probably as you described, a bad gasket or seal or hose somewhere.

I hope you buy it and enjoy it for a long time!
 
^^
2x

Get the VIN.
Check to see if the gas tank has been replaced by Toyota.
If not, buy it and sell it back to Toyota.

You could easily flip it and more than double your money.


Then get a nicer cruiser. ...if you're so inclined.

Nooooo it'll get crushed! :(
 
yes please don't send it to the crusher, $2000 is a hell of a deal depending on that trans noise, your description is a little confusing but almost sounds like a pilot bearing, "whine" makes me think bearing so this shouldn't be overlooked.

Maybe try to talk them down, but I just came real close to buying a 60 with a little rust and kinda running (starter fluid) for $2000 so if you can get a running and driving cruiser for 2k then jump on it! Good luck!
 
^^
2x

Get the VIN.
Check to see if the gas tank has been replaced by Toyota.
If not, buy it and sell it back to Toyota.

You could easily flip it and more than double your money.


Then get a nicer cruiser. ...if you're so inclined.
Look at my build thread. Very similar story and setup.
 
Look at my build thread. Very similar story and setup.


Thanks for all the replies so far. Hope to hear more.

As to the tranny/clutch noise, the "whine" as I describe it is a high pitched noise that sounds kind something is winding up. It sounds as the it's turning at a much higher rate than the motor and certainly what the tach indicated. It was pretty kind though so could not hear the motor well while driving. The more concerning was a slight metallic grinding sound when using the clutch and engine braking. Sounds like what some people describe when the TO bearing is touching the plate. It starts and drives great though so probably is a good deal. The owner came down from $2700 to 2k already. It is fall in Colorado too so anything with working 4wd is stupid pricey right now. Will have a second look tomorrow. Keep the input coming. Thanks again.
 
yes please don't send it to the crusher, $2000 is a hell of a deal depending on that trans noise, your description is a little confusing but almost sounds like a pilot bearing, "whine" makes me think bearing so this shouldn't be overlooked.

Thanks man. The "whine" is similar to what reverse sounds like on manual transmissions but louder. it spins out faster than the engine rpms. Hope that's helpful.
 
Yeah definitely sounds like the TO bearing or could just be that the clutch is out of adjustment. There is a flywheel inspection cover that can be removed but not sure if that would do you any good as to indicating if something is messed up or not. If you are truly interested in it I would take it to a tranny shop ASAP, possibly see if she will let you take it to one before purchase, and have them give it a once over. These trucks aren't modern day vehicles that have tons of electronic do-dads that can go bad and then start throwing codes all over the place. She is an analog beast and even if mistreated, will still run like a top.
 
Coolant Leak: It has a constant drip though the fluid was full when I looked at it. Hard to pinpoint the location as it drips down the drivers side of the crankshaft pulley and gets slung everywhere. The oil is clean and not milky and the vehicle did not overheat at all while I ran it (about 45 minutes parked and driving). Searching the forum indicates it may be a bad water pump or thermostat seal


Thanks!

If you purchase fix the leak as soon as possible. From your description the leak is likely the water pump or one of the hoses attached to. The cause could be as simple as a loose hose clamp or as serious as a failing water pump. Having a water pump shaft snap at interstate speed can shatter fan blades and wreak no small amount of havoc on the radiator. A $100 repair suddenly jumps up to $1000.
 
If you purchase fix the leak as soon as possible. From your description the leak is likely the water pump or one of the hoses attached to. The cause could be as simple as a loose hose clamp or as serious as a failing water pump. Having a water pump shaft snap at interstate speed can shatter fan blades and wreak no small amount of havoc on the radiator. A $100 repair suddenly jumps up to $1000.


Yeah that is one of the first things I plan on addressing followed closely by the clutch sound. The cruiser will be my second, snow day, ultra cold, haul the kids around vehicle as my motorcycle is the daily driver. Hopefully it will hold up well until issues can be addressed.
 
So, went back to look at the fj again today. such a cool ride. comfortable with the purchase with the lingering question on the "whine". here's a video of going through all 4 gears. 4th is the loudest out of them all and it gets louder under engine braking with gas or brake. Thoughts?

 
Sounds like a transfer case whine to me.

If you're gonna be paying a shop to fix a lot of stuff it might be worth spending more? You could get nicer paint and everything dialed in and potentially come out cheaper, albeit you'll be dropping more up front. If you're fixing everything yourself it still a good deal even with issues.

To a lot of talented fellas around here a rust free FJ is worth $2000 even without an engine and trans.
 
Sounds like a transfer case whine to me.

If you're gonna be paying a shop to fix a lot of stuff it might be worth spending more? You could get nicer paint and everything dialed in and potentially come out cheaper, albeit you'll be dropping more up front. If you're fixing everything yourself it still a good deal even with issues.

To a lot of talented fellas around here a rust free FJ is worth $2000 even without an engine and trans.

I resemble that remark!! And rust free.... commands more $$ out of my pocket. I'm just so used to repairing it on all the rigs I've had... Wouldn't know what to do with all that extra free time. I guess buy another cancer victim.

J
 
New 4 speeds or transfers don't sound like that.

The deceleration growl in 3rd gear does not inspire optimism.

Still...... the truck is worth 2k.
 
Sounds like a transfer case whine to me.

If you're gonna be paying a shop to fix a lot of stuff it might be worth spending more? You could get nicer paint and everything dialed in and potentially come out cheaper, albeit you'll be dropping more up front. If you're fixing everything yourself it still a good deal even with issues.

To a lot of talented fellas around here a rust free FJ is worth $2000 even without an engine and trans.

Thanks for all the replies. I tend to do a lot of the work myself. Never gotten into drivetrain work but may give it a shot if it's the clutch or transfer case. My neighbor is a mechanic and may be bribed with beer to assist/supervise. It definitely seems to be worth 2k. Around here the next lowest priced 60 or 62 is at least double the money and that one has similar issues and more miles. A one owner with 150k miles, decent paint, and minimal rust just went up at $12,500. Good God. That's a whole lot of change for a 30 year old ride. I'll pick up the cheap one and work on it and if something catastrophic happens I'll sell it or fix it. It is such a fun truck to drive and will be fun to work on. More to come when I pick it up! Keep the replies coming though. Input is always appreciated.
 
yeah could also be just that the tranny/t-case are low on fluid... If you do buy I would probably start with a full fluids flush for the entire truck (e.g. brakes, oil change, coolant, diffs, tranny, t-case, clutch, etc.)
 
yeah could also be just that the tranny/t-case are low on fluid... If you do buy I would probably start with a full fluids flush for the entire truck (e.g. brakes, oil change, coolant, diffs, tranny, t-case, clutch, etc.)


yep. I will start that in the morning. bought it this afternoon and drove it down out of the mountains. slow as Christmas but strong and all around great ride.
 
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