1983 Desmog FJ60

John Staton

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Ok, I know there are a ton of threads on this subject and I have read them all. I am planning on doing a desmog on my 1983 FJ60. Looking for comments and resources specifically related to doing the desmog on an early model 60 with a 2F engine. Any gotchas, "oops I did this wrong when I did mine", parts list, any step by step, any follow up work/advice once done, etc.... Again, no FJ62 ratholes on this thread...

My engine was rebuilt less than 2 years ago, 148K miles on it now. Strong other than quirky hesitation and surging when cold....Looking like EGR issues. I live in Texas and can remove without issue. I plan to do this, an OME lift and an H55 conversion....this is top on the list so any advice would be great. I am working with a shop that exclusively works on Toyota 4X4s and has good experience with these engines, but he has yet to do a desmog. He is doing research on it while I get the lift done and will tackle this after Thanksgiving.

Thanks by the way for all advice. Great community of folks who love to share and I have only owned mine a couple of months and have already been able to do the same. Invaluable.
FJ3.jpg


FJ12.jpg
 

OSS

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I'll add my 1 cent-

Getting rid of of all the air injection paraphanelia and replacing the pump with an idler pulley is a worthwhile and great upgrade and I highly recommend it. It will clear so much crap out of the engine bay and remove some parasitic drag and a potentially troublesome pump.

The EGR disablement should only be done (correctly) if the distributor's spark advance also gets recurved (by a pro). Don't just turn off the EGR valve and assume things are ok- because they're not. Entirely removing (vs disabling) all the EGR components makes the engine look cleaner, but that's all.

Replacing the catalytic converter with a straight pipe will let the engine be happier, but its hostile to the atmosphere and pretty much is your way of saying F U to everyone else's lungs.

Other than those three things, removing more components is detrimental to the overall performance of the engine and accomplishes only visual improvements.

Although you may think that you're going to keep your cruiser forever, the future is impossible to predict. One day you may need to sell the cruiser and it will be a LOT harder to sell if there's no way it can pass smog.
 

CaptClose

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I think if I had a rebuilt 2F with good vacuum (no leaks anywhere) that I would keep it smogged for as long as possible. @OSS is correct about resale value of a factory setup. They’re always worth more when they can pass smog.

Having said that, if I ever had to remove the manifolds to address a leak, change the gasket, etc... You are kind of forced into at least taking apart half the system anyway. So you might as well desmog at that point (if you can). There are a few guys on the forum, like @OSS that can desmog and resmog with their eyes closed. But the thought of putting all of the pieces back together was daunting enough to me, that I decided to stay desmogged.

There are several “performance” components in the system that aren’t really related to emissions that most people throw out, akin to throwing the baby out with the bath water. Be careful and avoid this if possible.

Where about in Texas are you? Anywhere close to San Antonio? With all the parts in hand, I can have you desmogged in an afternoon. I’m willing to help you if you need it.
 
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I'll add my 1 cent-

Getting rid of of all the air injection paraphanelia and replacing the pump with an idler pulley is a worthwhile and great upgrade and I highly recommend it. It will clear so much crap out of the engine bay and remove some parasitic drag and a potentially troublesome pump.

The EGR disablement should only be done (correctly) if the distributor's spark advance also gets recurved (by a pro). Don't just turn off the EGR valve and assume things are ok- because they're not. Entirely removing (vs disabling) all the EGR components makes the engine look cleaner, but that's all...

This is not a hijack, but OSS, I'm glad you posted your response in this fashion, as it gets at something I've been wondering:

Is the removal of the air pump/air rail able to be done exclusive of the rest of the "common" desmog - i.e. egr and all other systems can remain in place and functional?
 
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Hope you have small hands which are helpful to get at the air rail union and manifold bolt which are all next to firewall. It can be done as I finally proved to myself after many inappropriate words flying around the garage. Having the right tools will make it easier.

I wrestled with the desmog option as it pertains to maintaining the overall value of the truck. Decided to proceed and keeping everything removed in a box should I or some future owner needs to pass inspection. Glad I'm going desmog route because it makes access to everything so much easier. Plus, it just looks cleaner.

Several kits available to make the job easier. Jim C and MFE have kits that include the pulley to replace air pump, allen plugs for the air rail and block off plates. I like the option with the MFE block off plate to maintain use of the PCV. As Captain Close states, there are some performance systems worth keeping. He's been very helpful in guiding me through the various steps with photos and endless explanations. Others here have been a huge help as well. Good luck!
 

John Staton

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Kits? my mechanic is researching parts and procedure....where exactly can kits be purchased? is this from a company or individual and how do I contact them? I live just north of Houston Texas.
 

OSS

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Is the removal of the air pump/air rail able to be done exclusive of the rest of the "common" desmog

Yes (If the car doesn't have to pass smog tests). The air rail doesn't hurt anything - it has a check valve to prevent exhaust back flow, but it's probably rusty and ugly and can be removed and the ports plugged in the head. The simple emissions computer doesn't know or care if the air injection or EGR system exists.
 

John Staton

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Great info Jim C...and if you are ever in TW let me know, be glad to treat you to lunch or a drink. So I will pass this thread to my mechanic. I read I will need the following and it looks like I can paypal you for parts plus shipping and get it all from one place. Let me know if anything has changed. This is excellent. Great thread too....I am thinking this will give my guy all he needs to do the job.


AIR pump idler pulley for 81-87 2F with factory PS pump- Price is $110,

2.cap & plug set- $10

3. EGR blockoff plate for 2/76-later 2F exhaust manifolds-$15

4. 25628-61060 EGR gasket- $15

5. threaded EGR Intake manifold plug- $30
 
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Yep just paypal to Jim's email, make sure you add your shipping address in the notes, and the parts will show up a few days later, almost like magic!
 
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Good thread. You may consider running a header while your at it. I'm still running my smog stuff, but I'll keep the parts after my de-smog in January.

@OSS and @CaptClose really make good points. I digress and have removed my cat as it was shot. Probably won't replace, it does help reduce exhaust smell.

Nice cruiser, please keep posting with your updates.
 

gregnash

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I agree with @CaptClose, keep it smogged until an issue shows up that requires a desmog.
Check my sig line for JimC's desmog doc that was created a number of years ago and definitely go with the desmog items from his shop. Took me a couple days to do on my own but that was me taking my time. Make sure that the mechanic has a good, sharp exacto as that will help with the removal of old vacuum line, which should ALL be replaced with new stuff (again in the desmog doc).
 
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If I have to replace my head gasket (which I'm going to attempt my self, did it on a f motor before) and I want to desmog should I do it at the same time? It would seem the way to go. Does Jim C also have head gaskets or should I lean to Beno for all gaskets.
 

John Staton

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Member Jim C. Here's his thread: Desmog components

I've been to the Woodlands, TX. one of my co-workers lives there. Beautiful truck, btw!

Do you still do recurve and carb rebuild work? I see many of the threads referring to you doing this work are very old. Also, do people just take the opportunity to rebuild the carb because it is a convenient time to do so or are there special modifications that need to be done because of the desmog? I believe mine was rebuilt when the engine was rebuilt not that long ago.

If you still do them what state are you in and what would turn around be?
 

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