Amen to that brother!!! Death, taxes and toyota bed/frame rust are currently the three truths left for folks on the east coast
1981 4X4 LB PKUP ?'s
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Amen to that brother!!! Death, taxes and toyota bed/frame rust are currently the three truths left for folks on the east coast
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Thanks for your opinions and inputs. I stopped by, last week about Thursday I think, and offered him $1500. The wheels and tires are new and have less than 100 miles on them. Their value, alone, is close to $1K. On the rig, they don't raise it's value that much, but I had to consider them in my offer. I thought about telling him to keep the wheels and tires since I have a spare set for my 80 that I think would fit. But, I kind of like them. And they will work well with the 4.56 R & Ps that are included.
I asked him anyone else had looked at it. He said he had a few come by and look and they all went away cause it needed too much work. I asked if he had blue-booked it and he said he had not. I told him he was high, on the price, but he sill kind of winced at my offer. Well, we'll see if he comes down any. Thanks again to all of you!
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- #23
Well, it's mine. PO went back through it before I bought it. New front drive shaft, installed the 4.56 R&Ps both front and rear. Still needs lots of work, but that's why I got it. Project trail rig. Work on it at my speed - no rush. I'll ask for opinions as I go - this is a great forum! Lots of info & experience to draw from. One of my first mods (I hope) will be Aussie lunchbox lockers, both front and rear.
Congrats.
2ndGenToyotaFan
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Sweet paint! 
FYI 40" tires are the new 33"..... Just sayin....
FYI 40" tires are the new 33"..... Just sayin....
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- #26
Thanks, guys!
Anybody know where you can get the door/ignition key code so I can get a new key made at a dealer? The PO only had 1 key and it was a copy, so no code on key. It works in the ignition switch, but not in the doors, so I can't lock it.
Anybody know where you can get the door/ignition key code so I can get a new key made at a dealer? The PO only had 1 key and it was a copy, so no code on key. It works in the ignition switch, but not in the doors, so I can't lock it.
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- #27
Anyone recognize what model of Weber carb this is? There's a tag visable on the back that has the serial # on it and I saw on another forum, that "the model is stamped on the side of the base", but I can't find it. Will I need to remove the carb to find it? I suspect it's a 32/36 of some sort, since it's a 22R engine. The PO said it's a street carb, so I want to get the off road kit for it, in addition to a manual.
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2ndGenToyotaFan
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I think the key code is on the passenger side door cylinder.... Could be wrong though....
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- #29
I think the key code is on the passenger side door cylinder.... Could be wrong though....
Thanks, Jerod! I took your advice and while I was doing the mod shown below, I got the code and ordered me 2 keys from cdan.
On the mod, the panels are .100 aluminum. I got 2 sheets from the leftover bin, cut 2'x3' from Swift Steel in Redmond, OR. Cost me about $50 plus some for the screws. The middle screw near the door latch had to be shortened because it was jamming the door locks (ask me how I know
). 1st pic is before, 2nd is after.
2ndGenToyotaFan
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Whao, nice! 
Slick looking panels!
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- #32
Thanks, guys! They're prolly the nicest looking thing on the truck, but I had to replace those ugly original panels. They were falling apart and had old uncovered & unused speaker holes. I got the idea from bryan89's work on his 4runner in this thread. And I got the practice replacing my original tailgate panel on my 80 series a couple of years ago.
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Thanks, Jerod! I took your advice and while I was doing the mod shown below, I got the code and ordered me 2 keys from cdan.
On the mod, the panels are .100 aluminum. I got 2 sheets from the leftover bin, cut 2'x3' from Swift Steel in Redmond, OR. Cost me about $50 plus some for the screws. The middle screw near the door latch had to be shortened because it was jamming the door locks (ask me how I know
I have had aluminum panels in several rigs, always found them to be tinny, rattly, hot. A couple of locals have used contact cement to put on thin foam, then vinyl, cloth or thin carpet, making them much more livable, quiet. Could do the upper part, leave the lower plain, so foot scuffs clean easier?
Thanks, Jerod! I took your advice and while I was doing the mod shown below, I got the code and ordered me 2 keys from cdan.
On the mod, the panels are .100 aluminum. I got 2 sheets from the leftover bin, cut 2'x3' from Swift Steel in Redmond, OR. Cost me about $50 plus some for the screws. The middle screw near the door latch had to be shortened because it was jamming the door locks (ask me how I know
Nice job
I did mine out of ABS and on a hot day they get a bulge.
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- #35
Ya know, I never thought about that, but I don't live in AZ. I thought the aluminum would hold up much better than stock and for the overall condition of this truck, scuff marks & rattles will get ignored
.Thanks!
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- #37
Not yet. Thanks for your reply, Kris. I've been waiting for someone to chime in with experience. I'd like to have a carb kit on hand before I do it - for the gaskets. Trouble is - I need to know what kit to get. I've had pretty good luck in the past rebuilding & tuning carbs. It's been a few years, but it'll come back to me.
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- #38
Well, I pulled the carb off tonight and no ID markings on any surface that make sense to me. I found a "12" on the bottom of the primary throttle valve plate. An "N" and a"K" on the top where the filter attaches. A circled "5" and a circled "6" or "9" on the carb body. And lastly, a "TD" on an adapter that is bolted to the intake manifold. The carb mounts to this adapter.
That was a good find. Great 1st gen project.
Door panels look awesome.
Door panels look awesome.
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- #40
Thanks, Rozzi! It's kept me entertained lately.
I'm pretty sure I ID'd the carb through some research as a 32/36 DGEV. I'll be in process of fine tuning it some more and plugging some possible vacuum leaks and unnecessary lines and such from the mod to the Weber. The POs were apparently only concerned: that the engine ran - and not concerned with how well it ran. There's a lot of room for improvement, hopefully I'll be successful. I've been looking at some threads on YotaTech. I'll post results later.
I'm pretty sure I ID'd the carb through some research as a 32/36 DGEV. I'll be in process of fine tuning it some more and plugging some possible vacuum leaks and unnecessary lines and such from the mod to the Weber. The POs were apparently only concerned: that the engine ran - and not concerned with how well it ran. There's a lot of room for improvement, hopefully I'll be successful. I've been looking at some threads on YotaTech. I'll post results later.
