1980 Beater Build!!

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Picture from yesterday of on the way home.
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A good friend of mine has until the end of the month to get his new cab swapped, painted, and his 3rz installed as well as gears!!! I wanted to help out so I offered to tackle the gear install for him. Unfortunately the gears are the 4 digit suckers that start with T that Zuk claims are so hard to read the pattern on. I totally agree!!!!! Here is the easiest way I have found to torque the ring gear. I use a couple chunks of 2x4 and apply light pressure with the press and that allows me to torque the ring gear bolts.
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Here is the current pattern I am scratching my head on this one. This was the first try. Normally I start off way off and walk my way into a good pattern so I feel confident. This was the first guess and it is so close it makes it hard to see plus it isnt the clearest cut pattern. The picture is funny because it makes it look a bit shallow. I cant really see that in real life. Maybe taking a picture reduces the glare or increases the glare whatever and possibly just so happens to show a cleaner pattern..... Might be a trick for in the future if a pattern is hard to see.

Any votes or thoughts on this current pattern?? Another issue is that the pinion shims are so large that I am not sure the bearing seperator is going to get a good enough bite to remove the bearing. Otherwise I would make a slight change and go a bit deeper and see if I get the results I expect and then I would feel 100% confident even if I ended up changing it back because it was too much. One thing I learned last time is it is easy to think ummm.... I think I need a little more but the shims that came in the pack were in .005 and increments and even with combinations seemed to put it just out of perfect only the opposite way
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I just couldnt take it. After the new violator axle shafts were in the rockwells tonight and the housing was all buttoned back in I tore the pinion bearing back off my friends yota third member and added .005 shim to increase pinion depth. Again if it was the front diff I would have left it and I am certain it would last forever as is but I just felt it was .003 shallow. It was at .070 and I obviously went to .075 since .005 increments are my only option. It put the drive side very very close if not perfect and the coast side a touch deep probably about the .002 or .003 I figured. In a perfect world a .003 shim would have been the answer but I feel good about this install other than maybe the brand of gears used.

Drive side about right maybe .002 deep
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Coast side a touch deep
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shipped the rear third off today back to my friend. Delivered it too which gave me a chance to check out the cab, fenders, and hood being sprayed. I had lost my phone at the time so wasnt able to get any pics. Tomorrow we are hoping to rip the T100 apart and rob the 3rz and start preparing for motor mounts and crossmember. He had a gift certificate for superior that we got at TTC but when he tried to use it on a locker they would only let him use it on superior parts so he ended up buying rear axles...... We both agree the rear axles are not needed but that was the only thing he could think of to blow it on at the time. So once they arrive we will throw the third in the back. I will grab some pictures tomorrow

As for mine the longfields are in, locked and loaded

EDIT: here is a pic of their tonights progress
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We got my friends front third member installed today, I had the rear third almost done when they called and said they installed the welded one I had set up for the rear in the front of his yota and needed to weld the one I was working on to now go in the rear.. :idea: So back apart it went
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Another pic of the cab painted
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The longfields are in as well as the hardened hub gears. Bobby and his staff were a pleasure to work with. If there were only three runs a year that I had to pick that I actually care about two of them are coming up at the end of this month and only a week apart :eek: I can not take any chances and I am trying to make sure my yota is 110% ready while also installing a new 406 sbc that has well over 500 ft lbs of torque and high 400 hp into my friends TTC jeep (we will be on TV next monday I think running the tank trap on the outdoor channel if for some reason anyone is that bored lol) prior to these upcoming runs AND doing a crank shaft seal, cam seal, oil pump seal, etc etc on a Rav 4 for a different friends daily driver. Man this sucks when you bite off more than you can chew since i didnt even mention wrestling practice 3 days a week minimum for my son..... Ok enough whining. I noticed I THANK GOD barely hit my magnesium cast oil pan on the last run on my truss. I went ahead and notched it rather than increase the bumpstops. It is a balancing game when you try and fit 40s with only 3" of lift...

Sorry terrible cell phone pic fo before I cleaned up the plating and painted it.

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Well results for the day.... (only some of the rigs)
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3 yotas took out a door me being one of them and luckily only my glass of the 3 is still ok. 3 or 4 jeeps tipped over in the hole I show in the picture.... pic does no justice the water is so deep most of us have to try and go around yet the tree on the left forces you to drop in and chance your luck at the lottery.
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My carnage which i am less than excited about is the IFS box leaked like a garden house out of the top of it somewhere around the worm gear adjustment like 3 quarts of ATF.... The door will need kicked out, the front locker gave up right away but we finally decided it was the square tube making noise so I said screw it and held it wide only to waste the locker.... Once the locker wasted the winch became our best freind only to quit working 100% on the last full pull then bam back again.... LONG DAY started out GREAT ended WEAK :meh:
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So I started to rip the front end apart tonight to access the carnage as I try to get ready for this weekends event! I found the cog gear on the hub that engages onto the new cromoly hub gear to be shattered... I almost quit there thinking i had found the culprit but common sense said it just didnt line up. We tore it clear down and thank goodness the longfields were fine as well as the ring and pinion but I cant say the same for the spartan after its second run....
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I am fairly confident that the fact that I was in the middle of a hard wheeling trip and trying to get back to the pickup was less than easy so I had a few times when the locker would ratchet then catch under acceleration most likely caused the hub cog failure.
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Yep sure did.... Ehh I knew better than try and run a lunchbox style locker for what I do. I am back to where I should be and that is spool or welded since I am not willing to drop the coin on an ARB. I survived this weekends event "Mud Fest". I had so much mud caked on everything that it started to squat my yota and I started bottoming out the front suspension. I bet I had 500 lbs of mud on the yota.... Ya seriously I will post a picture when I am not so tired. Plain and simple I need to add an inch of lift to avoid all of that.
 
4x4 Station Wagon said:
Yep sure did.... Ehh I knew better than try and run a lunchbox style locker for what I do. I am back to where I should be and that is spool or welded since I am not willing to drop the coin on an ARB. I survived this weekends event "Mud Fest". I had so much mud caked on everything that it started to squat my yota and I started bottoming out the front suspension. I bet I had 500 lbs of mud on the yota.... Ya seriously I will post a picture when I am not so tired. Plain and simple I need to add an inch of lift to avoid all of that.
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Yeah we're gonna need some pics of that.

As for the spools or welds, that's exactly what I was thinking. I'm just going to weld mine for GSMTR this year and when I re-gear I'm going to spool the front and rear.
 
This is about half way through the day and I can assure the mud just kept sticking to itself.... The corners of the frames, tops of the axles, etc all had basket ball sized piles of mud... It took me half a day and I destroyed my yard trying to clean it. :mad:
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Lowe I have ran quite a few welded carriers and although I have thought about buying spools so they are clean and bullet proof I have never had a problem one with the welded diffs other than my very first one when I was 16 and I welded it with a 110 flux core wire feed.... I wouldn't spend the money for a spool to replace a welded diff. Just my 2 cents.
 
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