1980 Beater Build!!

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4x4 Station Wagon said:
My 39.5 bias irok showed up to replace my radial today. I mounted it and threw the golf balls back in there even though I am not impressed with that idea. Obviously it works at low speeds but it gets a bit wild at 40-45 mph and then smooths out and is golden from there up. Unfortunately I drive 40-45 a lot where I live. Non the less it is nice to have 4 matching tires. I stuck the winch in the rear reciever backwards more less taking up what would normally be the bed space. I am looking forward to seeing how the front rides with the weight off of it as well as the additional weight in the rear. I have a run tomorrow at noon so the test is on. I am 0 for 2 on this run due to mechanical issues (minor bugs to work out) so I am really hoping I have them ironed out and the third time is the charm.
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I'm not sure how it would be with the bias tires since they ride crazy on the road anyway but I've used the bead bags or sand bags many times before and it makes big tires like that ride like butta. You can pick up 4 bags from your local tire insaller for about $20. :steer:
 
I might have to break down and try the bead bags! I didnt care if it was perfect but I did want it closer than they are. Like you said they are bias they arent radials but I have owned other bias and they were not this wild.
 
4x4 Station Wagon said:
I might have to break down and try the bead bags! I didnt care if it was perfect but I did want it closer than they are. Like you said they are bias they arent radials but I have owned other bias and they were not this wild.
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We put them in a set of 38s (Nittos) that went on an employee's Chevy truck and they were smoooooth.
 
So the golf balls might have done the job on the way home it wasnt bad. It was almost scary on the way to the run though! I think I will try the bags in the front and chock the rest up to having a 39.5 bias.

So finally made it to the run without breaking down. I still battled the power steering a little even with the dinky cooler and the atf. Anytime I really put the steering to work (not binds just constant trail use) it would whine. It also pushed some of it out the top but I did have it overfilled. It rode a lot better with the winch stored in the rear. I was pleased with the flex and tires cleared everything. I was most impressed with the fact that we pulled a wicked climb that was steeper than your picturing right now and I was able to use 2nd low. Once I even tried 3rd low and I could let the motor pull down close to dieing, crest the bump, step into it and regain. I cant wait for some rain around here as wheel speed should not be an issue.

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EDIT: I forgot to mention I do not care how well they work that square tube front driveline is going to be a spare soon as I will never run another one in my life! You should be able to listen to and feel a yota and with it in there that is not possible for me.
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I decided to pull the back off of one of my gear cases and make a template for a t-case crossmember. I only used little wings vs the full crossmember as I want to conserve plate and utilize other methods such as round or square tube.
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Diet doctor pepper boxes work great! The first pepsi box didnt work worth a crud :D
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4x4 Station Wagon said:
also Lowe the part I ordered showed up today. Thanks!! It was nice to pay aftermarket prices for an OEM part!!
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No prob man. Let me know if you need anything else.

Rig looks awesome! What was the issue with the square driveshaft? Just ride terrible? Vibration? I always wondered how people could drive with those. It seems like they would vibrate really bad, kill u-joints, etc.
 
Little vibration at wheeling speeds but not bad. Just a lot of clanks and bangs because of the slop in the two square shafts. The other part I do not like is when you have the hubs in but you kick it into 2wd to cruise up a gravel road to the next spot. It works and it FUNCTIONS well but I will spend the extra money, take the extra time and put a long travel splined shaft back in there. We run a lot of junk and a clang or a bang is fine infact its normal but in my history of toyotas a clang is not good and makes you get out and look to see whats wrong....
 
So my brand new rear main flows oil like the fountain drink machine when i purchase a 440z pepsi.... I have been told they can be trouble some when new and settle in after a bit of time but mine is getting worse so it came out this weekend. It is a 1 piece main style and it wasnt leaking against the crank but was flowing between the seal and the 1 piece bearing housing. I replaced it with a higher brand seal as well as placed a little black RTV around the seal. back in with the engine and a bit of clean up to go towards the radiator while I was at it as I have 2 huge runs coming soon. Neither one of these runs can you afford to have as small as a glitch. Bobby Long has cut me a bit of slack due to our success at TTC this year and if I can pull it off in time I wil order the 30 spline axles with hub gears prior.
 
As mentioned the additional 1.25" forward on the front axle in addition t what the rear springs already do was just too much for me. When I flex and stuff a tire the bump stops stop the spring right at flat but there is a hell of an S wrap in the spring. I can only imagine when I get to hogging on it the front is going to hop like heck. I moved the axle back the 1.25 and flexed it again and they stay flat. I had moved the front forward to clear the cab corner which I had already chopped and plated once. Now I am cutting more. I had to cut even more after this picture! It is tight to the cab mount now.

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yeah honestly it isnt much more than 3" of lift trying to clear 39.5s that is why.

When I first started this build "chop shop" stated that 38s were the perfect yota size due to a lot of accurate reasons. I told myself I didnt care I would mitigate every issue that popped up one way or another but honestly chop shop was right and life is a lot simpler with 38s for all the reasons he explained!!!
 
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4x4 Station Wagon said:
yeah honestly it isnt much more than 3" of lift trying to clear 39.5s that is why.

When I first started this build "chop shop" stated that 38s were the perfect yota size due to a lot of accurate reasons. I told myself I didnt care I would mitigate every issue that popped up one way or another but honestly chop shop was right and life is a lot simpler with 38s for all the reasons he explained!!!
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I was thinking you had like 6" lift. So... yeah I can see why there are some clearance issues. :hhmm:
 
Nope sure dont. My goal this entire time has been not to lift it anymore than I have to. I wanted to keep my center of gravity as low as i could with this yota. I have been able to maintain very good approach angles due to bumper designs as well as axle locations despite the low height. My belly clearance is decent thanks to the non stock crossmember. I tried to install my drivetrain as high as I could to ensure I had steering linkage clearance which seemed to have worked well. I only have about 3.5" of uptravel but all kinds of droop. I would like to get to about 4.5" of up travel before I am done. The 3.5 doesnt sound like much but that is at the frame so the 39.5s will actually tuck up inside the front fenders a little on stuff. It allows me to stop the springs right at flat. I will grab a picture soon of the current cut on the cab corners. It is rediculous and is tight to the body mount. But I have accomplished my goal and it really doesnt bother me inside the cab as there is a ton of room over in the corners
 
4x4 Station Wagon said:
Nope sure dont. My goal this entire time has been not to lift it anymore than I have to. I wanted to keep my center of gravity as low as i could with this yota. I have been able to maintain very good approach angles due to bumper designs as well as axle locations despite the low height. My belly clearance is decent thanks to the non stock crossmember. I tried to install my drivetrain as high as I could to ensure I had steering linkage clearance which seemed to have worked well. I only have about 3.5" of uptravel but all kinds of droop. I would like to get to about 4.5" of up travel before I am done. The 3.5 doesnt sound like much but that is at the frame so the 39.5s will actually tuck up inside the front fenders a little on stuff. It allows me to stop the springs right at flat. I will grab a picture soon of the current cut on the cab corners. It is rediculous and is tight to the body mount. But I have accomplished my goal and it really doesnt bother me inside the cab as there is a ton of room over in the corners
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That's cool. Do you have any body lift or spacers or is it all suspension?
 
So i finished the second round of patches on my cab corners today. there is nothing left the tire will hit the body mount before it hits anything else. We relocated the electronic fuel pump to back by the tank where it should be as I cheated temporarily and it almost left me stranded twice already. I ordered longfields 30 spline shafts today as well as hub gears. I also picked up my 23 spline coupler for my doubler. We have a large run tomorrow I should have some pics. It looks like my membership just expired so looks like I better dig up some money tomorrow for that as well.
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4x4 Station Wagon said:
So i finished the second round of patches on my cab corners today. there is nothing left the tire will hit the body mount before it hits anything else. We relocated the electronic fuel pump to back by the tank where it should be as I cheated temporarily and it almost left me stranded twice already. I ordered longfields 30 spline shafts today as well as hub gears. I also picked up my 23 spline coupler for my doubler. We have a large run tomorrow I should have some pics. It looks like my membership just expired so looks like I better dig up some money tomorrow for that as well.
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Dang. I wish my floor looked that good. :hillbilly:
 
Thanks it really did its job today. I laid it on its side in an iinsane ditch thing and mashed a fender, the door (door will be fine) and broke a mirror all to heck. I was overly pleased with everything today the 4.3 was insane and pulled a crowd quickly. I will try to post some video. 3rd gear low range throws a few chunks
 
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