1980 Beater Build!!

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You do in deed need an adapter but in your case only one adapter. Now that you have one top shift tcase your right you will be fine with your plan. I edited the post I had above saying you needed two top shift cases that isnt true. It does work with two top shifts but I am 92% sure the only must is that the reduction is a top shift assuming you do get a top shifter 5 speed like you mentioned.
 
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So originally I was embarrased to say I didnt realize super swamper sent me 3 bias ply and 1 radial right up until they said keep the radial we will send you another bias at no charge...... Now I am smiles from ear to ear!!
 
4x4 Station Wagon said:
The spare is going on the back of the yota for weight. It will also make me look rich... People will think I have so much money I can afford a spare :D
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:cool::D:cheers:
 
I was sick and tired of fighting the round glass bus fuses. I could not get a good contact no matter how many times I cleaned them infact I broke one tab off and one was already broke when I got it. I picked up a newer stock square fuse block. I do not have my paperwork with me but it had like 9 power feeds/circuits vs. 5 that the round fuse block had. I ended up combining a few circuits exactly as the round block had done. It should work good for me as I have not loaded any circuits harder than the stock 1980 had. I just climbed in the house from finishing it. I was able to figure out that part of my fight was a bad park light relay.
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Very nice!

I've played with just about every inch of wiring in my first gen, and I gotta say, the harness in this truck is one of the best layed out ones I've seen, and that block is just idiot proof.
 
So even though I had the heater box out the other day and found that screw holding the door open I was an idiot and chose not to break it apart. Now that it is back in I just do not feel it is blowing as hard as it should. I manually checked the doors and forced them shut tight. I chose to tear it back out today and pull the heater core to ensure it isnt covered in leaves or mouse crap.
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It is very similar to the one I rebuilt for my fj40. When I did that one I replaced all of the felt stuff but not this one. A few clips and one screw is all that holds it together.

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Unfortunately the heater core was pretty clean. I cleaned what I could and blew some dust out of between the cores. It blows a little harder but not crazy. The squirrel cage looked fine as well. I guess you get what you get.... :meh: It isnt terrible I just thought it should blow harder as it blows hard on vent setting....
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My son and I took it out for a test run today in hopes to check a few things and maybe find a few more bugs.... Well that didnt take long just as we arrived at a wicked run I looked it over and found powersteering fluid everywhere. I truly believe it doesnt have any air so I am guessing it is overheating the pump not having a cooler. The hoses are pretty short also so not a ton of cooling there or fluid retention. I installed the stock dinky toyota cooler behind the radiator once I got home. I will try it now. However it was nice to have everything electrical work for once in fact items that never worked before..... ;p
 
This thinga majigor is toast. The only setting that works for me is HIGH. Correct me if I am wrong though that has nothing to do with it not blowing as hard as I would like because HIGH doesnt use it so High isnt effected right??
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So I have been dieing to get some kind of rock slider on there before I crush in below the door. I wanted something simple and low profile. I hate when the protection is so large it becomes a hinderance. I started with a hole saw to try and half notch the cab but it didnt take me long to break the drill bit so heck with that where is the sledge hammer.... I still want to add one more for strength in the center but it got dark on me.
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So... If I am reading things right regular power steering fluid eats the seals out of IFS toyota boxes???? Well just incase it looks like I am flushing it with ATF tomorrow. Does anyone know if ATF takes heat better than Power steering fluid?
 
4x4 Station Wagon said:
So... If I am reading things right regular power steering fluid eats the seals out of IFS toyota boxes???? Well just incase it looks like I am flushing it with ATF tomorrow. Does anyone know if ATF takes heat better than Power steering fluid?
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You should never use power steering fluid on a Toyota. Dextron III ATF only! I would def flush it out as good as possible. As far as heat goes, I'm not sure if it would solve your problem but the cooler should help. I have seen MANY power steering pumps fail from the use of inferior P/S fluid tho.
 
are you kidding me it was 35.oo for a headlight relay!!!! That is the nicest part on my yota now.

So I just ran all of the powersteering fluid out and then ran a quart of ATF through the system before I refilled it with ATF. I am hoping I am fine on my box seals as it was only in there for a week tops. I think the best idea will be to run it a bit and then swap in some new ATF one more time.
 
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4x4 Station Wagon said:
are you kidding me it was 35.oo for a headlight relay!!!! That is the nicest part on my yota now.

So I just ran all of the powersteering fluid out and then ran a quart of ATF through the system before I refilled it with ATF. I am hoping I am fine on my box seals as it was only in there for a week tops. I think the best idea will be to run it a bit and then swap in some new ATF one more time.
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I'm sure it will be fine. The fastest I've seen one go out is about 6 months.
 
My 39.5 bias irok showed up to replace my radial today. I mounted it and threw the golf balls back in there even though I am not impressed with that idea. Obviously it works at low speeds but it gets a bit wild at 40-45 mph and then smooths out and is golden from there up. Unfortunately I drive 40-45 a lot where I live. Non the less it is nice to have 4 matching tires. I stuck the winch in the rear reciever backwards more less taking up what would normally be the bed space. I am looking forward to seeing how the front rides with the weight off of it as well as the additional weight in the rear. I have a run tomorrow at noon so the test is on. I am 0 for 2 on this run due to mechanical issues (minor bugs to work out) so I am really hoping I have them ironed out and the third time is the charm.
 
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