Great project!! I am stoked to see the finished project! Good luck and keep the pics coming!!!!! Mark
1977 FJ40 w/a Vortec 4.3 & 4spd
- Thread starter Fryedaddy
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #22
I made a little more progress, my dad came up and helped me install the clutch (more like he installed). I've helped him install one clutch before but don't have enough experiance to tackle this. I want to make sure it's right so I don't have to remove everything again. I thought all parts were accounted for but looks like I didn't by the new flywheel or pressure plate bolts. Didn't know I needed those (dough).
Saturday my welder came over and welded some panels on. Looks like I'll be ready for the budbuilt panels soon.
Saturday my welder came over and welded some panels on. Looks like I'll be ready for the budbuilt panels soon.
Hi All:
Great re-build thread "Fryedaddy!" Thanks for sharing with us!
I'm interested to hear how the 4.3L Chev does in a 40 Series.
Regards,
Alan
Great re-build thread "Fryedaddy!" Thanks for sharing with us!
I'm interested to hear how the 4.3L Chev does in a 40 Series.
Regards,
Alan
awesome.....good work..
Me too..... I have the same motor in my 40 and don't have it done enough to drive yet. I've been curious how it will pull. The curb weight of a 40 is a bit lower than an s-series blazer so it oughta do ok.
Fry, did you drive it home or trailer it? How'd the motor do in the 40? Do you know what year the motor is? I had a hell of a time finding VC gaskets for mine. Motor is out of a 93 but VC gaskets required were 98. Same Valve covers as you have.....
**edit, I actually read the first post. Late night last night, sorry**
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- Thread starter
- #26
Xj, I didn't drive it home. It was missing the motor when I bought it. The engine is a 95 and some of the parts are a little screwy. If you haven't already buy a Haynes manual and they list the engine type (mine is a W). When I bought the gaskets and bearings they had a time finding the right set. It took the company a week to locate the correct parts. The eninge design itself didn't change alot but the intake was switched around a little during 91-98.
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- #27
I forgot to add Georg (Orange45) sold me the knuckle rebuild kit and his customer service is top notch. So far I've bought the AA kit & knuckle kit from him and both times he was very helpful. I've spoke with him atleast an hour on the phone between orders and he's assisted in an question I've had, thank you.
Did the 95 have that big remote oil filter/cooler POS on it? I just got the nipple to put the filter directly on the block. GM part # 14081300 just in case you need to do the same. Also, are you having the computer reprogramed to get rid of the anti-theft? I've also got a "mostly" complete engine harness for my 93 if you need any connectors or pigtails. It'll be going in the trash soon so let me know if there's anything you need. The only parts missing are a couple primary wires and the 2 relays w/ about 6" of wire. I'll race ya to get em running....
- Thread starter
- #29
XJ,
Thank you for the offer, I bought mine from a guy who had it in a tube buggy. He sent the cpu off to Jims Performance and they removed all the extra's. The engine was basically a stand alone unit with a th350 behind it. My plan was to rebuild it but after I tore it down I figured out it didn't need machining. I just replaced all the bearings and seals. The oil filter is right beside the oil pan and has two lines running out for a cooler. Was the origional mounted somewhere else or did you relocate yours? I have thoughts of removing the cooler lines and just having an oil filter. Know of any probs with that?
Thank you for the offer, I bought mine from a guy who had it in a tube buggy. He sent the cpu off to Jims Performance and they removed all the extra's. The engine was basically a stand alone unit with a th350 behind it. My plan was to rebuild it but after I tore it down I figured out it didn't need machining. I just replaced all the bearings and seals. The oil filter is right beside the oil pan and has two lines running out for a cooler. Was the origional mounted somewhere else or did you relocate yours? I have thoughts of removing the cooler lines and just having an oil filter. Know of any probs with that?
sOUNDS LIKE YOU HAVE A tRANS-dAPT COOLER ADAPTER on the block. Something like this???
You can pull that assembly and order the 14081300 from a gm dealer (about $10). It threads into the block and you can screw a filter directly to the block. I think 92ish 2wd s10 blazer filter will work. That's what I got, I'll find out if it works tonight. If you have the room a cooler is not a bad idea. I hear the 4.3s run a bit warm. Not too bad, though.
Originally they have an aluminum block coming from the motor with al. lines to another block where the filter threads onto. Then more lines from that to a cooler either inside or beside the radiator. Very notorious for leaking. Even stories of blowing off a line and running the motor dry of oil & seizing up. Most engine swaps do away with the factory adapter/cooler.
Ha ha, I just realized you painted your motor the exact opposite of mine!
You can pull that assembly and order the 14081300 from a gm dealer (about $10). It threads into the block and you can screw a filter directly to the block. I think 92ish 2wd s10 blazer filter will work. That's what I got, I'll find out if it works tonight. If you have the room a cooler is not a bad idea. I hear the 4.3s run a bit warm. Not too bad, though.
Originally they have an aluminum block coming from the motor with al. lines to another block where the filter threads onto. Then more lines from that to a cooler either inside or beside the radiator. Very notorious for leaking. Even stories of blowing off a line and running the motor dry of oil & seizing up. Most engine swaps do away with the factory adapter/cooler.
Ha ha, I just realized you painted your motor the exact opposite of mine!
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- Thread starter
- #31
Your's looks alot better than mine. I just had the heads serviced and left the block alone. I'm building this for a rec vehicle so It's going to look good but not perfect. The piece you pictured is exactly what I have.
Chevy engines are usually offset to the ds about 1". Driveshaft clearance, I suppose. Jim @ downey might be the one to PM. You might also get their swap manual for more info.
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- #35
I would love to center mine but the DS is a little close to the dust cover.
Alright, out came the engine again the flywheel went on with a little effort. I'm going this weekend to pickup the budbuilt panels and ordering the metaltech fenders next week. I removed the AA transfercase mount and had the cup cut off. Since I could reach the trany easier now I thought it would be best to do that. I'll prob use the factory piece until I drive it a bit and see what kind of gas mileage it gets.
Anyone have an idea of the performance and mileage without a VSS?
Alright, out came the engine again the flywheel went on with a little effort. I'm going this weekend to pickup the budbuilt panels and ordering the metaltech fenders next week. I removed the AA transfercase mount and had the cup cut off. Since I could reach the trany easier now I thought it would be best to do that. I'll prob use the factory piece until I drive it a bit and see what kind of gas mileage it gets.
Anyone have an idea of the performance and mileage without a VSS?
The vss is pretty important for this particular motor. I think driveability would suck without it unless the previous owner had that programmed out too, if you even can. I think you'll have to get the 40 tooth gear and vss. 
- Thread starter
- #37
I'm pretty sure he did, I've read you can ground the wire and make it think it's in park.
Have any idea which wire it is? Or do you have a factory wiring diagram? It looks like the VSS hooks through the cruise control (haynes manual) but It don't have a CC anymore.
Have any idea which wire it is? Or do you have a factory wiring diagram? It looks like the VSS hooks through the cruise control (haynes manual) but It don't have a CC anymore.
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Couldn't find 1 for the 95, here is one for my 93. Should be about the same. Sensor sends signal to buffer (which is supposed to be programmed for gear ratio and tire size) and buffer sends sig to ecm. I'll do some diggin and see what I can find out about it. Tim
Here is a page out of the painless harness manual for this motor. Read....
**edit** I got the oil filter nipple put in last night. Worked beautifully. That nipple and a filter from a 92 2wd s-10 blazer and you can get rid of the cooler adapter.
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- Thread starter
- #39
You are the man
nice work. i was going to do the same to mine here soon.