1970 FJ40 newly aquired, need advice

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Updates on progress,

Front axle is torn down, and the parts are cleaned. I had the easiest time seperating all the birfields from the axle. I did not have the required pipe or a bench vise, so I improvised and use a piece of 90 degree steel stock. I held the axle against the inside of the stock and slammed it on the ground, off came the Birfiled lickity split. I did six of them in about 5 minutes.

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Here are the cleaned up parts awaiting a delivery from Cruiser Outiftters of Utah, Thanks Kurt.

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Here is the pile of spare crap left over from collecting too many parts after finding the donor axle to be less than adequate.

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Btw is this the result of getting the preload wrong? I am really glad I decided to rebuild the front birfields. All new bearings are also on order from Kurt.
 
In other news, the engine runs and starts very easily. This is quite a relief, as the engine sat silent for four years. Here is a youtube clip for those interested. I am sure you have seen many engines run, but this is the first one I have resuscitated.

‪Fj40 Chevy 350 After Four Years of Inactivity.‬‏ - YouTube

BTW it now idles without stalling, and the timing is almost set.

I went from this

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to this

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Unfortunately I had to remove the hood support bar to get the air cleaner to fit with the hood closed. It didn't seem necessary anyway, as the hood can just be leaned on the windshield for access to the engine compartment.

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Oh here is a tech tip, go get a plastic lawn mower gas tank and you can have a fender gas tank just like mine. this allows me to have the main tank out for body repairs and still work on the engine.
 
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And here is the part where I ask for advice. The PO installed dual shocks in the 80's and I would like to go back to one set, as I understand duals are a waste of good shocks. As you can see the added shock tower has been welded to the fender upright. This makes the fenders non removable. I would like to fix this. I may eventually get new fenders and block hugger headers to get the exhaust inside the frame rails.

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How in the hell do I remove these welds? Is there an easy way

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Love the "Hounds",,, we had a rescued Greyhound for a number of years... Looks like you have a nice project in front of you... My advice for what it's worth would be to take your time with it and enjoy it. I am currently restoring my 74 and find myself getting in a hurry from time to time. I bought it as a project and not as a complete vehicle.... I have to remind myself sometimes that I do enjoy working on it... Go through it at your own pace and believe it or not 40 parts are evrywhere and not that expensive...
 
In other news, the engine runs and starts very easily. This is quite a relief, as the engine sat silent for four years. Here is a youtube clip for those interested. I am sure you have seen many engines run, but this is the first one I have resuscitated.

‪Fj40 Chevy 350 After Four Years of Inactivity.‬‏ - YouTube

BTW it now idles without stalling, and the timing is almost set.

I went from this

photo+21.JPG


to this

photo.JPG


Unfortunately I had to remove the hood support bar to get the air cleaner to fit with the hood closed. It didn't seem necessary anyway, as the hood can just be leaned on the windshield for access to the engine compartment.

photo+2-1.JPG


Oh here is a tech tip, go get a plastic lawn mower gas tank and you can have a fender gas tank just like mine. this allows me to have the main tank out for body repairs and still work on the engine.

How much space is there between your valve covers and the firewall? It looks tight... Which may lead to overheating problems.

I'd recommend 3" or so... https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/448066-sbc-swap-manual-steering-2.html


In my case, 3.5" would have made the front and rear driveshafts interchangeable... Changing the #5 plug, maybe not so possible though.:D
 
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Bikersmurf, the passenger side valve cover is almost touching the firewall. I will not be addressing that anytime soon, though it does weigh on my mind. (after reading some of your thread, I think Isee why the engine is so far back though, I have no heater issues witht he shifting levers.) The SBC install was done in the 80's by my stepfather. It has worked fine in the passing years, so I plan to concern myself with more pressing matters like the never rebuilt front axle. The races were all in sorry shape.
 
congrats on starting up the build again. A couple of things:

There appears to be fuse holders on the firewall on the PS and they are not stock,
The blinkers should be removed and replaced back on the fenders where they belong imho.
Not sure if that shroud is going to function as you want it but cant see the other side to see how close it is to the fan and how far back it goes.
Lastly, get some supports for those plug wires, they will melt pretty easily on the headers.....

GL
 
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