1966 FJ45LV restoration/buildup project (3 Viewers)

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bumper caps

These thread are so entertaining. I really like the picture threads.


On a side note, do you have any rear bumper caps I could borrow?

unfortunately no. What are they made of? I am not too sure I like the way the look?
 
The caps are metal. Please don't throw 'em away if you have any.

The rubbers look alot like the ones I got from Marc. I believe he bought them from TLC. Maybe they are the same ones.

Compare them to stock and I doubt there is any reason to complain;)
 
That's awesome to see that rotisserie that I designed duplicated. :)

Happy to see that it worked as well for you as it did for me, excellent job :beer: :cheers:


Matt
 
Does anyone have a list of the various screw sizes that are typically used on the LV's? I was going to try to get an inventory going of the most common sizes in SS so when we begin reassembly, it would be easier. McMaster-Carr sells most any size needed, but I was wondering if someone had new this info. If not I could go the local hardware store and spend some time there to figure it all out. I noticed that SS is not listed with grade 5 or 8. So does that mean they are not as strong? Can SS be Cad. plated? I did see that MC lists a grade 8.8 in the metric section, so they could be Cad plated, but no SS? How do you know which bolts were Cad plated vs. just silver? Or was everything Cad plated? Help.
 
Does anyone have a list of the various screw sizes that are typically used on the LV's? I was going to try to get an inventory going of the most common sizes in SS so when we begin reassembly, it would be easier. McMaster-Carr sells most any size needed, but I was wondering if someone had new this info. If not I could go the local hardware store and spend some time there to figure it all out. I noticed that SS is not listed with grade 5 or 8. So does that mean they are not as strong? Can SS be Cad. plated? I did see that MC lists a grade 8.8 in the metric section, so they could be Cad plated, but no SS? How do you know which bolts were Cad plated vs. just silver? Or was everything Cad plated? Help.



I use all Stainless steel in the stuff I'm doing.

99.9% of the sizes you will use are 6mm x 1.0 (thread pitch) and 8mm x 1.25

I buy both of these sizes I believe in length increments of 16, 20, 25, 30, 35 and 40 mm I buy both dia. and lengths and dia. in boxes of 100.

The common lengths will be the 20, 25 and 30 (in both 6 and 8mm dia.) if you want to go light on other stuff.

I use 1/4" and 5/16" flat washers instead of the 6 and 8 mm ones because the i.d.'s are the same, but the o.d.'s on the SAE ones are larger and I think work better and look nice.

Hope this helps

Matt
 
Looking good.

I don't know a lot about SS brake lines but I think they need a different type of flare put on them than regular steel lines. I think if you don't plan on keeping the truck for more than 40 years the stock steel lines would be OK.
 
thanks Matt, that helps a lot. do you know if SS can be Cadmium plated? and does SS hold paint the same as good old regular steel?


Not sure if it can be plated or not? I guess I never cared, figured it isn't going to rust.......

Not sure about the paint either. Almost all my bolts are installed after paint so it's never been an issue.

Went out in the shop and took a pic of some of my assortment. I have one of those carrier compartment plastic cases. Makes it handy when your assembling and can have it right next you you.

Matt
MVC-005S.JPG
 
screw assortment

Not sure if it can be plated or not? I guess I never cared, figured it isn't going to rust.......

Not sure about the paint either. Almost all my bolts are installed after paint so it's never been an issue.

Went out in the shop and took a pic of some of my assortment. I have one of those carrier compartment plastic cases. Makes it handy when your assembling and can have it right next you you.

Matt

Having not done a cruiser before, I was wondering what the process was for re-assembly. Whether or not nuts and such received paint or not. Good to know that most will not receive paint makes it much easier. As for SS vs. Cad. I too like SS, but wondered if I should use Cad for originality. I too use the nice plastic parts sorters, and that is exactly what I was planning on doing. Nothing worse than missing one screw and having to make a parts run. The other night when we put the body on the rotisserie we needed 6 screws, so I ran down to Home Depot. What a joke, it took me 45 minutes just to find the correct size screws so the project could continue. Of the six, only two were the correct size or strength, which could be left in place. The others were just what they had so I could move forward. HD is Pathetic.
 
On my LV I went to a business called Fastenal and bought much of my hardware from them. If they don't have it in stock they will order it for you.
On using stainless steel bolts going into standard welded on nuts in the body a friend of mine who works at Advance Adapters said they will freeze up and cautioned against it.
On stainless steel brakelines;I used the standard hardlines from NAPA. Also get a double flair kit from them to make custum lengths.
For flexible brake lines I went with steel braided lines. On the front brakes I bought a custom brakeline from Downey Offroad that allows you to remove the backing plate and attach the brakeline directly to the caliper. Looks more bling and maybe keeps gravel and mud from being trapped against the rotor.
 
Hello 66LV

On my LV I went to a business called Fastenal and bought much of my hardware from them. If they don't have it in stock they will order it for you.
On using stainless steel bolts going into standard welded on nuts in the body a friend of mine who works at Advance Adapters said they will freeze up and cautioned against it.
On stainless steel brakelines;I used the standard hardlines from NAPA. Also get a double flair kit from them to make custum lengths.
For flexible brake lines I went with steel braided lines. On the front brakes I bought a custom brakeline from Downey Offroad that allows you to remove the backing plate and attach the brakeline directly to the caliper. Looks more bling and maybe keeps gravel and mud from being trapped against the rotor.


Dave, good to see you are back, hope you are feeling well. Thanks for the advice. Any more info on why SS bolts would freeze up? Here are some more pics of the frame. We will have to do a little straightening to the front horns. Once the bumper was cut off you can really see how bent they are. We put the Porta-ram on it real quick this afternoon and I am really surprised at how easily they move. With just a few quick pumps it was moving back into position. Is there anything wierd I need to know with regards to bending a frame back into position? I have included some pics with red lines drawn to show how far the driver side has to go.
IMG_5566-1.JPG
IMG_5567-1.JPG
IMG_5575.jpg
 
The mold that Karr Rubber was using for the LV wing vents is owned by someone else and any more orders have to go through them. Karr isn't selling them direct anymore. I am pretty sure the rubber vents TLC was selling were also from this mold. Busvroseau bought his from them so he can chime in if they look the same as yours.
 
what happen?

The mold that Karr Rubber was using for the LV wing vents is owned by someone else and any more orders have to go through them. Karr isn't selling them direct anymore. I am pretty sure the rubber vents TLC was selling were also from this mold. Busvroseau bought his from them so he can chime in if they look the same as yours.


why the change in sales procedure? the guy at Karr said he thought had extras already produced when i ordered mine? I did talk to the person that had the molds produced (can't remeber his name right now) by Karr and he did not say anything in his email about Karr not being allowed to produce more? change of mind i guess? :confused:
 
Mark
On the use of stainless steel hardware. I continued to use some stainless steel bolts mainly the 6mm, I''l just wait and see if something happens. I had stainless bolts on my door hinges and changed them back to my stock bolts. I also get a lot of my nuts & bolts at ace hardware stores and recycle the good ones from several landcruisers I've stripped.
I could not find a use for the holes on the frame you highlighted on the LV.
I'll see if there used on my swb or lpb.
 
for screws and bolts i always hit either Ace hardware or Napa. napa if it's big enough usually has an excelltent selection of automotive nuts and bolts. I would stay away from Stailess steel bolts for the most part they don't have the right type of strengh in most cases
HTH jason
 
why the change in sales procedure? the guy at Karr said he thought had extras already produced when i ordered mine? I did talk to the person that had the molds produced (can't remeber his name right now) by Karr and he did not say anything in his email about Karr not being allowed to produce more? change of mind i guess? :confused:

karr was never given the right to produce the piceses from the mold rick d and I paid for. we were told that the molds would produce about 25 to 30 sets and that was all. now he is selling parts from our mold that we paid over $800 for. thats not right. I havent talked to anyone about karr selling parts. and I was never asked if they could buy direct from karr. rick and I would have said NO. we can get them made and you go through us. Sorry to be a dick about this but we worked hard to get them made. and I don't think it is right for a manufacture to sell direct behined our back.

terry
 

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