Build 1965 FJ45lv build up/resto thread

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A few pics I took this morning of that BJ40 I brought back from Canada for that buddy of mine.

Diesel sounds cool.... :)

Matt
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Gonna change yer name to "Roofus"


:D
 
cruiserdan said:
Gonna change yer name to "Roofus"


:D
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Yea, I'm good at fetching stuff. :D

Short trip for me though, Canada is 9 miles away and the BJ40 was only a mile north of the border. About 10 minute drive. Easy to get.

He should have fun with it.

Matt
 
74fj40 said:
thats only a four cylinder huh? very cool
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Yep, B motor. It does sound cool running, seems wierd hearing that noise coming out of a cruiser?

Max, did you see my answer to your post on paint? I had a few more questions for you?

Matt
 
well he lent us two so well probably get them both ready and then just switch when one runs out the get the empty one ready, ect. we just purchased a new 60 gallon husky compressor with 10.2 scfm at 90psi. well were using duplicolor filler primer from a can and wet sanding between coats. its very smooth. then we'll will be using acrylic enamel paint. he also let us borow a campbell hausfeild gun. buts its an all purpose spray gun. its the dh5300, so were not sure if it would do a good job. what do you think?
 
74fj40 said:
well he lent us two so well probably get them both ready and then just switch when one runs out the get the empty one ready, ect. we just purchased a new 60 gallon husky compressor with 10.2 scfm at 90psi. well were using duplicolor filler primer from a can and wet sanding between coats. its very smooth. then we'll will be using acrylic enamel paint. he also let us borow a campbell hausfeild gun. buts its an all purpose spray gun. its the dh5300, so were not sure if it would do a good job. what do you think?
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You would probably be suprised by how good of job that Campbell gun would do, but the 2 Saito gun in tandem will probably do the job.

From the info you typed here it sounds like you have someone telling you what to do, which is a good thing. Couple things though... you said your wet sanding between coats, why? Definetly block sand between coats of primer, but my autobody education dicates wet sanding the final coat. Wet sanding between primer coats will take some time and I don't think is nessacary. Blocking it out with 150 or 220 between coats dry and then wet sand last with 400 or 600 grit.

Also, you said you are using an acrylic paint. That is a single stage paint, but if you are going to use a single stage personally I would recomend a ureathane based paint and not a solevent based one. They both are going to spray similiar and the cost is not a whole lot different. The ureathane will look a little better and last longer.

But, if you give me enough time I'll try to convince you to base/clear it :D Personally that's what I would do. Don't be afraid of base/clearing, in many respects it's easier than spraying single stage paints.

Hope this helps, Matt
 
thanks, i really dont know the difference between the two paints. ive never really done all this before its a first time experience for me so this cruise is like the guinne pig for me lol. i think ill take your word for it. and im thinkin about taking an autobody course if its not to expensive...

thanks,
 
74fj40 said:
thanks, i really dont know the difference between the two paints. ive never really done all this before its a first time experience for me so this cruise is like the guinne pig for me lol. i think ill take your word for it. and im thinkin about taking an autobody course if its not to expensive...

thanks,
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How far away are you from Paint?

Matt
 
Matt, I'm digging your advice on paint. How much you think it would cost to just do my entire wagon in that rust mort? Seems like it might just be a little easier that way :D
 
Inner drip rail pieces

Matt,
Are the inner drip rail pieces to replace metal that you cut out? What about the roof cross members, are they stock? Mine has three that bolt in. I was looking closely at my FJ45LV and I know that I've got rust up at the rain gutter so I am tempted to pull off the roof as well. I'm just curious how much additional rust was found hiding and how much needed replacing.
 
Lito said:
Matt, I'm digging your advice on paint. How much you think it would cost to just do my entire wagon in that rust mort? Seems like it might just be a little easier that way :D
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Easy and would probably extend the life of your wagon, but not the nicest finish in the world. Worked great for the bottom side of that roof. :)

I can't rembered what I paid for that qt., I think it was around $15, maybe? I would imagine you might need a couple gallons, I've seen pics of your lv. :D
Matt
 
cruiser_guy said:
Matt,
Are the inner drip rail pieces to replace metal that you cut out? What about the roof cross members, are they stock? Mine has three that bolt in. I was looking closely at my FJ45LV and I know that I've got rust up at the rain gutter so I am tempted to pull off the roof as well. I'm just curious how much additional rust was found hiding and how much needed replacing.
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If your asking did I make those drip rail pieces to replace the ones I cut out? If that's the question, yes, I did make those pieces. The ones up there were rotted pretty good.

Yes, the roof x-members were stock. Yours are bolted? I would like to see a pic of that. I'm sure mine were stock and they were welded in.

Inside that drip rail when I removed the roof was the absolute most rusted part of the vehicle in my opinion. It definetely had to be done.

Matt
 
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