Can anyone tell me if the Sequioa 150 amp is a direct fit or does it need any mod's on 1FZ ?
thanks for the advice
thanks for the advice
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So there was no special bracket you need? This just bolted right in? Why did you need to mess with the wiring I assume the wire harness.plug isn't the same as stock.


The connectors are different. Check out Photoman's thread Post #24: https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/206807-upgrading-stock-alternator-130-150-amp-2.html
I would contact him to see if his kit is available.. Alternator Bracket, new Plug assembly and if you are adventurous his reduction pulley as well
Here is my use of his bracket and pulley. His pulley set now comes with a "press" (post # 6 my home made version)for the alternator installation
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/567823-150-amp-alternator-thanks-photoman.html
Good luck, but i would stick with the toyota stuff![]()
Can anyone tell me if the Sequioa 150 amp is a direct fit or does it need any mod's on 1FZ ?
thanks for the advice
The connectors are different. Check out Photoman's thread Post #24: https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/206807-upgrading-stock-alternator-130-150-amp-2.html
I would contact him to see if his kit is available.. Alternator Bracket, new Plug assembly and if you are adventurous his reduction pulley as well
Here is my use of his bracket and pulley. His pulley set now comes with a "press" (post # 6 my home made version)for the alternator installation
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/567823-150-amp-alternator-thanks-photoman.html
Good luck, but i would stick with the toyota stuff![]()
The sequoia needs the "photomans" bracket to mount...
This is a good option (Stick with Toyota and the Bracket Mod), however the product listed in this post is a direct fit for the TLC - NO need for brackets, NO need to modify the edge connectors. The only item you need to upgrade, is the B+ wire and add a new upgraded Fusible link or Fuse to support the higher AMPS. This Ebay Alternator is pretty simple, its slides right in, the edge connectors fit, and so far its worked with out issue. Keep in mind I have only had this Ebay Alternator in my ride <3 Months and I don't know of any others running it. So time will tell how well it works.
Now some thoughts around upgrading your B+ wire, BTW -- You'll need to do this for either alternator. Here is how I did it -- The simple way is to measure from the B+ Post on you ALT to your fuse holder and then from the fuse holder to the battery. With those two measurements buy 2 x 4 or 2 gauge pre-crimped starter cables from your local auto store that match your measurements. From there its as simple as installing the cable. Note - Don't forget to disconnect or totally remove the old B+ cable.
I hope this helps, what ever option you choose (Sequoia or This one) the good news is you'll now have plenty of AMPS to spare.
Thanks... Matt..
Thanks mattman, I am going to try it, Ill keep the stock one handy for a while just in case. If I had no backup I would go with the sequoia.
You are welcome. Keep in mind if you upgrade to a high output alternator you do need to upgrade the B+ wire. If you use the stock wire you are sure to burn it up.
That's great news! I glad to hear it has all the parts needed to complete the conversion.
On another note I gave ACE Alternators a call the other day and confirmed that their product has been fully updated to support the higher AMPS in the stock TLC Alternator casing.. So not only is a direct fit but it is fully rated to support the 160AMPs.
I'm looking forward to seeing how the ACE Alternator performs over the next year as it has its work cut out for it with the new electric fans I've installed.... and a winch is right around the corner too...
I think no matter which option you choose just getting out of the stock alternator is a good way to go.
I will most likely send my stock one into ace and have it reworked and keep as a spare. Did you ever get a price for a rebuild on a stock to 160?
I thought I would post up some PICs that compare the stock 80AMP TLC Alternator to the 160AMP ACE TLC Stock Rebuilt Alternator. As you can clearly see from the pics the ACE Alternator is an exact match to your stock TLC alternator. In fact all the necessary internal components have been designed to support the higher AMPS.
I thought I would post up some PICs that compare the stock 80AMP TLC Alternator to the 160AMP ACE TLC Stock Rebuilt Alternator. As you can clearly see from the pics the ACE Alternator is an exact match to your stock TLC alternator. In fact all the necessary internal components have been designed to support the higher AMPS. All you need to do is remove the old Alternator, install the ACE Alternator, and finally update B+ wire to your battery (don't forget to remove the old one). Its pretty simple. Enjoy!
I don't to pee in your Cheerios, but it is a stock alternator. Alternators put out power which is the product of volts and amps. The only way to make more power is more windings and bigger windings or run it at a higher RPM. If you looked inside an alternator, you will find that there isn't any spare room for more windings so it isn't going to make more power. You can rewire it to make more amps and the expense of less voltage, but it needs to make a minimum of 13.7 V to run a lead acid battery. There is no way that is going to make twice as much amps at the same voltage. They are pissing down your back and telling you it is raining.