100's with aftermarket wheels? (1 Viewer)

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Discount Tire bashed up 4 out of 5 of the original wheels I had just refinished.. They offered to pay up to $150/ea for new wheels. I'm struggling to find something 16x8/9 that will fit the LC. Any recommendations? (I'm running 285/17 R6 K02's)
ICON Six Speed Wheel. 5 on 150mm - Bronze / Black - Slee Off Road

iCon 6 speed wheels are $229 each so if they pay you $150 per wheel you're getting a great set of rims for $79 a rim ! Obviously you'll be shelling for the 5th one unless your spare is still under your car in which case you might not care.

I found some other ones on Ebay for about $600 a set of 4 and they do look good as well. (Vision 355 Manx 2 Overland 17x9 5x150 +0mm Gunmetal Wheel Rim 17" Inch | eBay)


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excuse me while I wipe the drool off the corner of my face.... SO GOOD! what rear bumper is this? Tire sizes? Spaces? Lift? yeah basically tell me everything.
Thanks for the props on the build!!! Rear bumper is made by Coastal Offroad 100 Series Land Cruiser High Clearance Rear Bumper Kit - Coastal Offroad Wheels are Method 17x8.5 with Zero offset wrapped in 35x12.5 Maxxis Trepadors. No spacers to fit the wheels. I put Old Man Emu rear springs in the rear, sensor lift in the front and then made custom rear bump stops(1.5 inch) and increase the front bump stops by about 10mm with fender washers. Also runnning full Slee Offroad skids, Metaltech sliders and front and rear ARB Air lockers... Right after the build was complete I ran the Rubicon trail with it to test it out, rig worked perfect on all fronts
 
Thanks for the props on the build!!! Rear bumper is made by Coastal Offroad 100 Series Land Cruiser High Clearance Rear Bumper Kit - Coastal Offroad Wheels are Method 17x8.5 with Zero offset wrapped in 35x12.5 Maxxis Trepadors. No spacers to fit the wheels. I put Old Man Emu rear springs in the rear, sensor lift in the front and then made custom rear bump stops(1.5 inch) and increase the front bump stops by about 10mm with fender washers. Also runnning full Slee Offroad skids, Metaltech sliders and front and rear ARB Air lockers... Right after the build was complete I ran the Rubicon trail with it to test it out, rig worked perfect on all fronts
I don't think I got the skills to weld this beast of a bumper, well I actually don't know how to weld so there's that :-(
that's a whole lot of rubber I think I am going to stay around 33"(ish) since it's a DD as well but dam these 35" look good.
 
I think for 16s, SCS F5s are a favorite. Also, probably what I'd end up with if I got rid of my RWs.

SCS F5
 
SCS F5s appear to be impossible to source. Anyone know how often then replenish the online store?

Vinny at SCS is very good about getting back to customers via email. Great customer service with them across the board. I have bronze f5s on my Taco, and I love the look.
 
@kreiten, which methods are those and are they hub-centric? I have been looking but been getting stuck on the hub-centric requirement that I thought we needed to meet for our trucks.
 
@kreiten, which methods are those and are they hub-centric? I have been looking but been getting stuck on the hub-centric requirement that I thought we needed to meet for our trucks.
They are the Method 305 NV 17x8.5 with zero offset. I think these are lug centric
 
They look super cool. Is there any issue with going lug centric? I thought it would cause vibrations?

This is up for debate, but a lot of guys run iCon 6 speed wheels that are nowhere near hubcentric, i mean the center bore on that wheel is like 120mm while our bore is 110mm, as long as the tire is round and the balancing guy know what he's doing, it shouldn't vibrate. So short answer is no, you don't need hubcentric wheels if your tires are balanced correctly.
 
Ideally you should get hubcentric rings that basically have an OD of 120 and ID of 110. Usually pretty cheap to pick up in either plastic or steel and they just slot in at the back of the wheels. With running heavy chunky LT tires, I do my best to try and minimize potential vibration issues.
 
Thanks @Beau

How tight does the clearance between the center flange and the wheel bore need to be? I was looking at the Method Con 6 which has a bore of 110.5mm compared to the center flange of 110mm.

@nitteo, are you referring to the 17 wheel being too big or the 35" Maxxis?
 
Thanks @Beau

How tight does the clearance between the center flange and the wheel bore need to be? I was looking at the Method Con 6 which has a bore of 110.5mm compared to the center flange of 110mm.

I wouldn't worry about that slight 0.5mm difference. It's probably on purpose to give a touch of clearance.
 

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