100 Series / LX470 Transmission Fluid Change Guide DIY

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Location
Raleigh, NC
I just did this service on my 03 LX470 and wanted to put the whole procedure in one place.

For this service I bought a Vevor fluid vacuum/pump container and a trans adapter set off of Amazon for about $70. It made the job WAY WAY easier:

VEVOR Transmission Fluid Pump 2 Way ATF Refill System Dispenser, Oil and Liquid Extractor 10 Liter Large Capacity, Automatic Transmission Fluid Pump Tool Set with 14 Pieces ATF Filler Adapters

I also bought my fluid from Amazon - From what I understand, Idemitsu is the OE Manufacturer. You'll need 3 of the 5-gallon containers as this service will require at least 12L (12.5Qt.)

Idemitsu ATF Type TLS-LV (WS) Automatic Transmission Fluid for Toyota, Lexus, Scion - 5QT

Please note that I worked in liters because metric (duh). A quart is just a little more than a liter if you want to go that way.

The full procedure:
-Remove fill plug on drivers side of trans (24mm)
-Drain trans pan (14mm bolt) : ~2L. I used a 4L/4Qt square kitchen prep container to catch the fluid. They are easy to read and pour very cleanly.
-Replace drain bolt w/ new crush washer
-Install trans fill adapter into trans fill hole
-Fill fluid pump with new trans fluid, hook up compressor (60 PSI seemed about right on my unit).
-Attach quick-connect to trans adapter to add fluid. KEEP THE HOSE ROUTED AWAY FROM THE CATALYTIC CONVERTER! You will be running the engine and the cat can melt the hose.
Add 2L (2L total). When the proper amount has been dispensed I shut the ball valve on the fluid pump hose to keep the fluid from draining back.

Now we turn our attention to the front of the vehicle to set up our fluid pumping system using the trans pump:
-Remove front skid plate (12mm bolts)
-Remove trans return hose at hardline junction above steering rack on passenger side (spring clamp). The return hose is the one on the passenger side (LHD). I stuck the hose in a funnel to catch the fluid and drain into my container.
-Empty your catch container (I used my empty trans fluid jugs from filling the fluid pump). Put the catch container under the funnel. Make sure the markings are facing the drivers door so you can see when to stop pumping fluid.
-Pump out 2L by starting the engine and watch under the vehicle to see the fluid fill your graduated catch container. Once it's right about to hit 2L shut the engine off.
- Add 2L (4L total)
-Empty catch container
-Pump out 2L
- Add 2L (6L total)
-Empty catch container
-Pump out 2L
-Add 2L (8L total)
-Empty catch container
-Pump out 2L
-Add 2L (10L total)
-Empty catch container
-Pump out 2L
-Add 2L (12L total)
-Start engine and bring fluid to 115-130 degrees F. NOTE: Apparently there was a TSB that lowered the fill temperature range on 04-07 model years to 97-115 degrees F.

Techstream is your friend here to read the exact fluid temp, but there is a method which involves jumping some pins on the OBD port (See image below).

1772818394686.webp


-Once fluid is in temp window, stop the engine
-Remove level plug on bottom of trans pan (5mm hex)
-If fluid comes out, wait till it starts to trickle, reinstall plug and done.
-If no fluid, re-install level plug + add ~0.5L
-Start & idle for 10-20 seconds
-Stop engine
-Re-check level.
-Repeat until level is correct.
-Re-install fill plug (24mm). Tighten firmly but don't go all Hulk mode - it's an O-ring seal.
-Re-fit trans cooler hose to hard line.
-Re-install skid plate
-Job done!
 
Thanks man, always good to get a step x step you can print out and use - especially with info on the needed products!
 
You've made mistakes in your OP procedure, that will damage your Automatic Transmission (A/T)

Not picking on you. But you've used the 2004-up fluid/procedure and not properly set level.

Some keys and suggestions for 1998-2003!

The FSM picture you used above. Where I type in red, TSB A/T fluid Temp (TBS) range 97F-115F. Is from 04-07 FSM. Note: 2004 was first year to lose dip stick, and first to get check plug/straw. 2004, was also first year to use: Toyota WS ATF. WS (world standard), is not backward compatible. Meaning don't mix WS ATF with Dexron, Toy II or IV.

2003 is the red-head-step-child. That everyone loves!
It's the first with the A750a (4 spd w/OD, AKA: 5 spd) and last with a A/T dip stick.
The first to use Toyota IV ATF.
The 2003 A/T #1 fluid temp set range (same as 98-02) 158F to 176F. More fluid better is than less. So I set at 158F.

  • Checking A/T fluid level. Before starting a flush procedure, so we know what we're starting with. Is easy in 98-03, and can be done anytime before we start out flush. Since will not need to remove fill plug, for side of A/T. Which would have, put are arm near exhaust, as when we do 2004-07.
  • I, draining the A/T pan. Allowing to drip ~15 minutes. I get 3 qts., every time from A/T that was set properly.
  • While letting A/T pans drip. I set up my catch hose & can. Tapping in, from near RH side top (LHD passage side) of radiator. Onto hard line pipe nipple, that's coming from oil radiator (first of the 3 radiators).
  • After replacing drain plug with new gasket and torque to 15ft-lbf. I add 3 1/2 qts, through dip stick. Adding 1/2qt., more than should come out. Helps to make sure, "I do not run pan dry", during flush procedure.
  • As I idle engine, to use A/T's pump, to pump out fluid. I'm pouring in fresh fluid in dip stick tube, at same time. I'll get about 1 qt in, as two qts pumps out. Stop engine and add 1 qt. Now I'm back to over filled by 1/2 qt. Never getting lower than ~ 2 qts in A/T pan. We then know, while engine idling. A/T fluid Pick-Up Screen/Tube, is always submerged in ATF. If we see air in fluid (not a solid stream of red) catch line, we've run to catch bucket. We run pan dry, and so pump runs dry (not good).
  • Check A/T fluid level while on level ground and engine idling. After shifting through all gears and reaching 156F -176F.


Tapping in at oil rad. return line nipple, on way back to A/T. Allows us to get, all ATF from A/T fluid cooling system (oil radiator). It also makes easy to watch A/T fluid as it exit the system for air and color. It also makes easy to see, if now fluid pumping out. Stop engine if no fluid seen. I've had case, where someone reversed flow (hook line in reverse) . Which is how the 200 series is routed.

036.webp

Red arrow points to hard line return nipple, with catch hose attached. Blue arrow, is hose pushed off hard line return nipple, just set to the side. This retune hose, can be used to fill A/T with fluid. This is where shops with fluid exchange machine tap in.
036c.webp

67712319076__53578A31-4E76-41D7-B7DC-1ACBFEDFF3A9.webp

Warning:
Why did Toyota remove the dip stick. Toy WS AFT, is a lower viscosity for improved MPG. We've anecdotal evidence, WS is hygroscopic. Installing it in a non sealed A/T. WS ATF, may attracts moisture (water). The bond/glue (according to a top East Coast A/T rebuilder), That is used, to hold clutch material (pads) to plates. Is water soluble. So we do not want, a WS ATF in a non sealed A/T.

In 98-02 I use Mobil 1 MV ATF
In 2003 Toy IV ATF. Can use Mobil 1, but I stick with Toy IV, in most cases. If in a 03, the A/T fluid temp, is running hot. I'd use Mobil 1 MV ATF.
In 2004-up Toy WS ATF.


Toyota ATF TSB (1).webp
Toyota ATF TSB (2).webp
 
Last edited:
***A liter is slightly larger than a quart….. check the math if it was done wrong…
 
I just did this service on my 03 LX470 and wanted to put the whole procedure in one place.

For this service I bought a Vevor fluid vacuum/pump container and a trans adapter set off of Amazon for about $70. It made the job WAY WAY easier:

VEVOR Transmission Fluid Pump 2 Way ATF Refill System Dispenser, Oil and Liquid Extractor 10 Liter Large Capacity, Automatic Transmission Fluid Pump Tool Set with 14 Pieces ATF Filler Adapters

I also bought my fluid from Amazon - From what I understand, Idemitsu is the OE Manufacturer. You'll need 3 of the 5-gallon containers as this service will require at least 12L (12.5Qt.)

Idemitsu ATF Type TLS-LV (WS) Automatic Transmission Fluid for Toyota, Lexus, Scion - 5QT

Please note that I worked in liters because metric (duh). A quart is just a little more than a liter if you want to go that way.

The full procedure:
-Remove fill plug on drivers side of trans (24mm)
-Drain trans pan (14mm bolt) : ~2L. I used a 4L/4Qt square kitchen prep container to catch the fluid. They are easy to read and pour very cleanly.
-Replace drain bolt w/ new crush washer
-Install trans fill adapter into trans fill hole
-Fill fluid pump with new trans fluid, hook up compressor (60 PSI seemed about right on my unit).
-Attach quick-connect to trans adapter to add fluid. KEEP THE HOSE ROUTED AWAY FROM THE CATALYTIC CONVERTER! You will be running the engine and the cat can melt the hose.
Add 2L (2L total). When the proper amount has been dispensed I shut the ball valve on the fluid pump hose to keep the fluid from draining back.

Now we turn our attention to the front of the vehicle to set up our fluid pumping system using the trans pump:
-Remove front skid plate (12mm bolts)
-Remove trans return hose at hardline junction above steering rack on passenger side (spring clamp). The return hose is the one on the passenger side (LHD). I stuck the hose in a funnel to catch the fluid and drain into my container.
-Empty your catch container (I used my empty trans fluid jugs from filling the fluid pump). Put the catch container under the funnel. Make sure the markings are facing the drivers door so you can see when to stop pumping fluid.
-Pump out 2L by starting the engine and watch under the vehicle to see the fluid fill your graduated catch container. Once it's right about to hit 2L shut the engine off.
- Add 2L (4L total)
-Empty catch container
-Pump out 2L
- Add 2L (6L total)
-Empty catch container
-Pump out 2L
-Add 2L (8L total)
-Empty catch container
-Pump out 2L
-Add 2L (10L total)
-Empty catch container
-Pump out 2L
-Add 2L (12L total)
-Start engine and bring fluid to 115-130 degrees F. NOTE: Apparently there was a TSB that lowered the fill temperature range on 04-07 model years to 97-115 degrees F.

Techstream is your friend here to read the exact fluid temp, but there is a method which involves jumping some pins on the OBD port (See image below).

View attachment 4098150

-Once fluid is in temp window, stop the engine
-Remove level plug on bottom of trans pan (5mm hex)
-If fluid comes out, wait till it starts to trickle, reinstall plug and done.
-If no fluid, re-install level plug + add ~0.5L
-Start & idle for 10-20 seconds
-Stop engine
-Re-check level.
-Repeat until level is correct.
-Re-install fill plug (24mm). Tighten firmly but don't go all Hulk mode - it's an O-ring seal.
-Re-fit trans cooler hose to hard line.
-Re-install skid plate
-Job done!
I believe your level checking procedure is incorrect. You do NOT stop the engine to check the level. Engine must be running (idling), otherwise you'll remove too much oil. You need to re-check your level, you might be running too low.
 
I believe your level checking procedure is incorrect. You do NOT stop the engine to check the level. Engine must be running (idling), otherwise you'll remove too much oil. You need to re-check your level, you might be running too low.
Good catch. Engine must be idling, during level check.

I admit, I didn't read all the way through, OP procedure. It's full of mistakes. Which some mistakes will result in damage to A/T.
  • Correct ATF for 2003: Toyota IV ATF.
  • Do not run pan dry, during flush. We drain pan while engine off, then refill plus 1/2 qt. Before running engine, making sure pan never runs dry.
  • Check A/T fluid level at 156f - 176f
  • Engine must be idling, vehicle on level ground. Shift through all gears pause in each gear. Pull dipstick (DS), wipe off, reinsert using two hands. Pull DS back out to check level. Set to high hot mark
@chapelheel I suggest you either change the title or correct your OP procedures. You should also re-flush your 03.
 
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