'04 LX470 Tie Rod End Stuck! (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
May 23, 2021
Threads
25
Messages
198
Location
Nigeria
I've spent at least 6 hours total whacking, lubing, and whacking the driver side tie rod end and it's just too stuck. I turned the castle nut upside down, threaded it back on till it was flush with the bolt and whacked so much that the nut went from a 22mm nut to 23mm nut lol. I also whacked the eye it goes into to get it loose but no luck. My question is, what size of tie rod end puller do I need to get the tie rod off? It's been on for years and is just badly rusted and bound into the eye it enters. Here's some post-whacking pics:
20210731_185046.jpg
20210731_185058.jpg
20210731_185105.jpg

P.S. The wheel nut socket size for removing that nut holding the outer wheel bearing is 54mm right? (just asking to be sure)
 
I've worked on much rustier cruiser and never had an issue popping the tie rod out, take a 2lbs hammer and whack the metal part that the tie rod goes into, most people say don't do this but it's designed to get beat on. Give it a few good whacks and it should pop right out, if you're going to replace the tie rod ends anyways, just keep beating the top of the nut until it pops out. Eat some wheaties and beat it off.
 
Yeah, I've been doing that for a total of at least 5 hrs with 0 luck and my arms feel like they're dead inside. I'm basically giving up now. I'm currently searching for the size of the pitman arm puller. Might go with 33mm but I just wanna be sure. I got the SST ID for the arm puller (09611-22012) from FSM, Just have to check that on the Lexus SST website now.
 
You could try get something like this on it too, strange I also whack the eye where the joint goes into and they always pop out after a few tries

images.jpeg-9.jpg
 
Yeah, I ransacked the house searching for a fork object like that but to no avail. This tie rod has been on the car for the past 17 years and has literally just rusted into the knuckle, that's why hitting it seems to have 0 effect whatsoever. Even with the removing tool I figure it'll be a struggle to get it off.
 
Have you tried simultaneously jacking up the spindle/hub assembly as far as it will go? Preload that troublesome area with opposite force.
 
Soak it with penetrating fluid, go eat some lunch, and get a 3lb drilling hammer and whack the housing as hard as you can. Want my gf to do it for you? I had her hit mine and it was able to pop out.


This one
81a-08kM42L._AC_SL1500_.jpg


Where to hit

51350929946_bed2372384_b.jpg
 
A pickle fork will usually work, but almost always destroys the boot. IMO don't use one unless you are going to throw it away. And even then, a pitman arm puller like @JunkCrzr89 suggests will work better if you have the room for it.

I use this one. Pro-tip, buy 2 as sooner or later you will end up modifying one with a grinder for additional clearance.

Amazon product ASIN B0009OR91K
 
I've used two hammers to whack the spindle on each side after driving a fork in between the ball joint and arm.

Have you:

(1) Uttered the appropriate incantations?
(2) Smashed any appendages? (that's not going to help but sometimes it's part of the "ritual")
(3) Declared the job impossible, 3 times, while walking off uttering "incantations"?

That's all I got.
 
Have you tried simultaneously jacking up the spindle/hub assembly as far as it will go? Preload that troublesome area with opposite force.
Yep, tried that with the car's bottle jack but also to no avail.
Soak it with penetrating fluid, go eat some lunch, and get a 3lb drilling hammer and whack the housing as hard as you can. Want my gf to do it for you? I had her hit mine and it was able to pop out.


This one
81a-08kM42L._AC_SL1500_.jpg


Where to hit

51350929946_bed2372384_b.jpg
Yep, I've been beating on that spot relentlessly like it's 6 months behind on rent. If you look at it closely you can see the black patches is where I've been hitting. The caked dust coating chipped off exposing the black underneath it. The parts I didn't hit (closer to the knuckle) are still brown and covered with caked dust/mud.
I've used two hammers to whack the spindle on each side after driving a fork in between the ball joint and arm.

Have you:

(1) Uttered the appropriate incantations?
(2) Smashed any appendages? (that's not going to help but sometimes it's part of the "ritual")
(3) Declared the job impossible, 3 times, while walking off uttering "incantations"?

That's all I got.
The funny yet unfortunate thing is that I've repeated those 3 exact steps at least 4 times before giving up and starting this thread lol.
 
A pickle fork will usually work, but almost always destroys the boot. IMO don't use one unless you are going to throw it away. And even then, a pitman arm puller like @JunkCrzr89 suggests will work better if you have the room for it.

I use this one. Pro-tip, buy 2 as sooner or later you will end up modifying one with a grinder for additional clearance.

Amazon product ASIN B0009OR91K
Thank You! Thank You! This is just the confirmation I was looking for. Hopefully this shouldn't be too hard to come across where I'm at.
 
Torch + BFH
 
Yeah, I'm not sure whether it would be better to use a pitman arm puller or the ball joint separator. Which one is less of a hassle to use? My right leg and arm (the leg I use for stability and the arm I use for pulling) have both died and I basically drag them anywhere the rest of my body goes.
 
You can always remove the two large bolts that hold the steering arm to the steering knuckle. Then twist off tie rod end and take it to a vice for the beating it naturally deserves at this point....
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom