01 Land Cruiser - Turns over but won't start?

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Resurrecting this thread as I am going through a no start issue on my '98 LC that is intermittent just like the OP's original post. Starter cranks just fine and no start, had it towed to a shop and of course it started when he pushed it into his garage. Wife got stuck Saturday and i went o pick her up, car almost on the flat bead, tried it once more and it started. Its back in my driveway and I was going to go throught the relays and fuel pump , etc. , but this key issue has my interest piqued.

I am using a no remote key and I have the master /fob as well. Is this as easy as getting a new key possibly?
 
I am bumping this hopefully someone will reply.

I am focused on part number 89783-60050 which is the transponder amplifier.

Does anyone have any experience installing this part?

The car will not start with any of the three keys I have and it is an intermittent problem.

AM I on the right track with this?

Thank you
 
Subscribed. Having similar issues with lx470. Thanks
 
I ordered the transponder amplifier and hopefully I will be able to install that without any issues.

I found a factory tech document that says a new amplifier will just recognize they keys without programming
 
i feel your pain! i have a 99 landcruiser that ran/started with no issues....until my husband had a new stereo system with integrated bluetooth installed. now the car intermittently won't start and we've narrowed it down to the immobilizer system, because the fuel pump has been checked & works fine, all fuses checked, etc., etc. i want to take it back to the place that installed the stereo, but i'd really like to have more information regarding this issue before taking it to them....IF i can get it started, that is. the problem somehow seems to be connected to the bluetooth for my phone - that's about all i can figure out. any help would be MOST appreciated.
 
If you didn't see my post on the other thread my problem was the efi fuse. Like someone else's it wasn't blonde but the contacts are corroded and making poor contact

Open that fuse box and get some contact cleaner and clean that fuse and the fuse receptacle well.
 
I'm having the same problem on a '00. Turns over but no firing. I can't hear the fuel pump after key is turned. I will check fuse, relay and pump tomorrow.
 
Pull that EFI fuse. Clean it /change it/ swap it with the stereo 20amp one.

On another site and thread I was the fourth person to have the identical issue and fix.
 
I just had a similar issue. Truck wouldn't start after a little adventure down a forest service road. Ended up stranded 12 miles from the closest road with no cell reception. Turned out that my spare key which I just started using that day was the problem. After walking a long cold walk down the Mtn I was able to hitch a ride and get home. Realized how dumb I was for not checking the key before I walked so far. The next day i went back and sure enough the alarm light stayed on even with my key in. So I tightened up the key fob which was sedated from the key (duct tape) and it started right up. Just another point of reference for you guys.
 
Didn't have a chance to go to Toyota today, however my fiance was just out playing with the truck.... the immobiliser light continues to flash when the key is in the ignition. According to the manual it should go off once the key is inserted.

Now the bad news... when I purchased the truck 5 years ago the dealership only gave me one key, and guess what.. it's NOT a master.

Tried to call the dealership, they are no longer in business....

Is there no way to get another Master key!?

Toyota RAV4 | Auto Service and Repair Review

Found this.... and this...

Toyota Immo Reset

I'm wondering if you guys think it is the key itself based on the flashing, or an issue with the immobiliser?

If it is the immobiliser I wonder what we were doing successfully that was causing it to function???

Just posting the information incase someone else comes up with this same issue. Will let you know what we figure out. Thanks for all your help so far guys.

Also found this on another forum:

Car Alarms: Toyota Lancruiser Immobiliser, toyota lancruiser, alarmtek

Another post I found... hoping these might help someone else. We've been going around with this issue for a year!

Question
Following a flat battery my Landcruiser (2000, Amazon petrol) now shows a flashing "key" indicator on the centre dash.
The handbook says this shows that the immobiliser has been activated.

The engine will crank but will not start.
The only suggestion from a local garage is to tow it in... don't fancy that without power steering and brakes!

Any ideas would be very gratefully received.




Answer
As much as I would like to provide a silver bullet
idea here, the trouble is the immobiliser is set,
and to bypass it is not going to be possible without
the diagnostic/reset machine at the Local Toyota shop.

When we go to bypass these ignition immobilisers
for remote start, it is done buy tricking
the ignition into thinking the key is in the ignition,
and would allow for the remote start.
Trouble in this case is that the immobiliser thinks
the system was breached. Even when your key is inserted.
Ergo, tricking it into thinking the key is there
is moot.

They need to reset the system by code, run through
the diagnostic plug under the dash. At least that's
the only way I know of to get around this issue.

It can not be removed. And as far as I know this
truck does NOT have an aftermarket alarm,
starter kill, or chip/key type add on
immobiliser because of the key indicator
in the dash, or I culd offer more suggestions.

I wish I could have solved it for you, but
unfortunately, this one needs to go into the shop,
or, better yet, Toyota should send out a tech to simply
reset it by computer. Best way to go.

Sorry about that.
 
I've had the same problem for a while, and have figured out what's wrong with mine.

2001 Land Cruiser with 195,000 miles on it. I bought it new and have all 4 original keys. Once in a while it just wouldn't start. The dealer found that the yellow 20 amp EFI fuse wasn't making good contact with the metal in the fuse box (the one near the battery -- in mine it's the fuse closest to the passenger seat in the three fuse row that is perpendicular to the longer row of fuses). I think the pieces of metal in the fuse box where you insert the fuse had loosened up, so the metal prongs on the fuse itself wouldn't complete the circuit. This wouldn't allow the immobilzer to recognize that a valid key was in the ignition, and the red light near the radio would continue flashing.

For a while, when it happened I would just pull out the fuse and reinsert it. But then that fix stopped working. The permanent fix is the replace the fuse box itself -- dealer quoted $1100. I'm sure I can find a mechanic that would charge much less.

My current temporary fix is to leave the valet key in the ignition at all time. This only works if you actually get it started first -- once it starts, don't remove the key. Just lock the door with a spare key. Once the immobilizer is disengaged, it seems that it only turns back on when the key is removed from the cylinder. Once you get the car to start, the immobilizer light won't start flashing again until you remove the key.

So to the list of possible issues causing your truck to fail to start, add that it could be the $0.20 EFI fuse not making proper contact with the fuse box.
 
I've had the same problem for a while, and have figured out what's wrong with mine.

2001 Land Cruiser with 195,000 miles on it. I bought it new and have all 4 original keys. Once in a while it just wouldn't start. The dealer found that the yellow 20 amp EFI fuse wasn't making good contact with the metal in the fuse box (the one near the battery -- in mine it's the fuse closest to the passenger seat in the three fuse row that is perpendicular to the longer row of fuses). I think the pieces of metal in the fuse box where you insert the fuse had loosened up, so the metal prongs on the fuse itself wouldn't complete the circuit. This wouldn't allow the immobilzer to recognize that a valid key was in the ignition, and the red light near the radio would continue flashing.

For a while, when it happened I would just pull out the fuse and reinsert it. But then that fix stopped working. The permanent fix is the replace the fuse box itself -- dealer quoted $1100. I'm sure I can find a mechanic that would charge much less.

My current temporary fix is to leave the valet key in the ignition at all time. This only works if you actually get it started first -- once it starts, don't remove the key. Just lock the door with a spare key. Once the immobilizer is disengaged, it seems that it only turns back on when the key is removed from the cylinder. Once you get the car to start, the immobilizer light won't start flashing again until you remove the key.

So to the list of possible issues causing your truck to fail to start, add that it could be the $0.20 EFI fuse not making proper contact with the fuse box.
Well said, so you can replace that over priced main relay- fuse box, leave your valet key in the ignition or you could make a custom jumper device to put in place of the EFI fuse and have no further plomlems as others have.
 
9/10 times this is key / immobilizer related.

When you insert any of the keys does the security light continue to flash? If so then the keys are not being recognized.

Many stereo installers hack their way through installs sourcing power and ignition power from where ever they find it - this tactic can lead to trouble. All of the power sources are available in the dash cavity where the radio is. Confirm install and report back.
 
when I experienced this problem I tried all four keys I had, then I found an old thread that said replace the EFI fuse I did, this temporarily fixed the problem, then I found another thread that took it a step further and replace the fuse with a jumper, he is going on 2 years with that fix and no problems I'm going on a couple of months. I have to conclude that the problem lies in a weak connection at the EFI fuse in the main relay box. Of course the correct fix would be to replace the relay box.
 
NJ land cruiser's post on the yellow 20 amp EFI fuse just got me out of a bind. Thanks man
 
when I experienced this problem I tried all four keys I had, then I found an old thread that said replace the EFI fuse I did, this temporarily fixed the problem, then I found another thread that took it a step further and replace the fuse with a jumper, he is going on 2 years with that fix and no problems I'm going on a couple of months. I have to conclude that the problem lies in a weak connection at the EFI fuse in the main relay box. Of course the correct fix would be to replace the relay box.
on my wifes lx470 a couple years ago she would have to tap on the FI relay every once in a while when it would not start... when that stopped working I to build a new relay circuit to power the FI... that has been 3-4 years...
 
I have been running with a 25 amp fuse in place of the 20 amp fuse for my EFI for a month now with no problems.
 

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