hoser
SILVER Star
If you want to paint it, go ahead. Many of the LX470 racks come painted from the factory. I would definitely leave the crossbars black though since that is where your mounts go.mscott said:
Factory roof rack removal (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter dieselbigot
- Start date
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I agree, the LX racks are painted
hoser said:
Thanks for the info guys, I'll let you know the results if I get time to remove and paint. It looks OK now, just not sweet how I like it...
Last night I removed the rack completely. It took about 10 minutes (very easy). I went to the local hardware store this morning and bought some 8mm x 1.25 bolts that were 12 mm long to fill the holes. The only thing left is the covers needed to fill the holes in the black plastic trim. Halfway down the trim strip is a spot for a middle support bracket. I took a pic of this section so that you could see what is needed to fill in the missing trim. I'm going to contact CDan to see if he can get me 4 more covers. I really like the clean look of the 100 without the rack and spoiler. I'll attach pics in just a minute.
Here are the pics; sorry about the driveway shots. The first two pics are of the middle area that is not used for the rack, but has the cover and bolts available. I'm thinking maybe there are two types of racks and one has three mounting spots instead of just two like mine. The third pic is of the front passenger side mounting area after the rack is removed. The last two are just pics of what the 100 looks like without the rack, rear spoiler, and running boards. If you ever wondered what your 100 would look like with these items removed, now you know! Cheers 
Last two pics:
Good news! I just heard back from CDan, the plastic covers can be ordered separately and are $5.94 each and it takes 4 of them. I will post another pic once they are installed.
FWIW, my 2000 rack was mounted/bolted in 3 spots on each side.
There doesn't seem to be any set year for the different racks. I guess its just what they had available at the time maybe? I've seen 98's with 3 on each side and 01's with 3 on some and 2 on others. Wierd huh?
Greg B said:
What is the P/N?
calamaridog said:
The part number listed on the receipt is 75557-60010 and the description is "moulding". I apologize, I threw away the package they came in or I would have made sure that number is the same. If this number doesn't work, you can check with CDan, I bought them from him.
Thanks, I'll try that P/N and post up if it is correct.
Just to confirm, Greg B has the correct P/N (75557-60010) for those plastic molding covers. Thanks Greg
mscott said:
Did you ever get around to giving this a try? I just painted my spoiler and am itching to get that sweet monochrome look...
calamaridog said:Just to confirm, Greg B has the correct P/N (75557-60010) for those plastic molding covers. Thanks Greg
Thank you both too, the P/N is also useful for me. I took one of these covers off and bolted my CB antenna mount onto the holes, then replaced the cover but cut in three pieces. I will buy a spare cover, in case I decide to put the antenna elsewhere.
http://maletero.escharlamotor.org/Fotos/dandon_uzj100/antena1.jpg
http://maletero.escharlamotor.org/Fotos/dandon_uzj100/antena2.jpg
I just removed my factory Roof Rack. It was a piece of cake thanks to the MUD board.
- Remove covers (4) using small screwdriver between split and gently pry upward until you can pull it straight off (up).
- Remove 4 torx on each side and then slide the entire rack forward (or back can't remember) to disengage the t-nut like hold on the center feet.
- When removing the black strip, it is very easy if you gently pop of the rear end first. Then pop off the front and place a rag or something under the front end while you work. Go to the back end of the strip and slowly push it forward. The windows will reveal the plastic snaps that hold the strip in place. Using a small flathead screwdriver, pop each snap off as you slide it forward and it slides right off!
My African Outback rack just came so I will hopefully be installing later this week (pending rain).
In the meantime I placed 12 (8mm x 1.25mm bolts) in the existing holes along with a rubber gasket/washer to seal any water leaks. As security I covered them with duct tape ( only within the channel)
Overall, took about 30 minutes. Not too bad once you know what you are doing
- Remove covers (4) using small screwdriver between split and gently pry upward until you can pull it straight off (up).
- Remove 4 torx on each side and then slide the entire rack forward (or back can't remember) to disengage the t-nut like hold on the center feet.
- When removing the black strip, it is very easy if you gently pop of the rear end first. Then pop off the front and place a rag or something under the front end while you work. Go to the back end of the strip and slowly push it forward. The windows will reveal the plastic snaps that hold the strip in place. Using a small flathead screwdriver, pop each snap off as you slide it forward and it slides right off!
My African Outback rack just came so I will hopefully be installing later this week (pending rain).
In the meantime I placed 12 (8mm x 1.25mm bolts) in the existing holes along with a rubber gasket/washer to seal any water leaks. As security I covered them with duct tape ( only within the channel)
Overall, took about 30 minutes. Not too bad once you know what you are doing
rockclmbr said:
I'll looking to buy some extra crossbars. If you want to sell yours, let me know how much you would sell them for.
My 04 TLC has 3 posts on each side. Each post has 2 bolts except the middle one which has 2 holes with threads but one bolt. Bottom line is you will need 6 bolts on each side to fill in the holes. The size is still the same but you need longer ones than was recommended.
Bolt size 8mm x 1.25, but 20 mm long. These will fit perfect. I could not find galvinized bolts but I did find washers. I also put some silicone on the threads, tightend her down and will paint the bolts when all its dry. I have ordered the snap in pieces from cDan.
This is so much easier than my 80 where they had to be pulled out then welded and painted. The 100 cost about $35 in parts vz $800 for the 80
Bolt size 8mm x 1.25, but 20 mm long. These will fit perfect. I could not find galvinized bolts but I did find washers. I also put some silicone on the threads, tightend her down and will paint the bolts when all its dry. I have ordered the snap in pieces from cDan.
This is so much easier than my 80 where they had to be pulled out then welded and painted. The 100 cost about $35 in parts vz $800 for the 80
Sorry to revive an old thread, but what was the final length on those bolts? 12mm or 20mm?
