Aftermarket UCAs

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Just for the record: My alignment expert could not get the caster adjusted to factory specs with the OEM UCAs and my front end had the nervous feel you get when a rig doesn't have enough caster. He was able to get it closer to factory caster spec with Carl's UCA but not quite 100% (and the improvement in front end feel, from a little more caster, was evident on my rig).

Of course lift height is the determining factor regarding caster adjustment & target. So lower lift height/less acute control arm angles certainly are better for the caster target.
 
ShottsUZJ100 said:
Huh...we run the same...2.75 up. Could something on your front-end be bent?
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After a tough hit...long story...to the DS side tire/wheel apart of our Utah trip this year I certainly thought (and so did my alignment specialist...who recommended I take it to a dedicated frame alignment shop).

Took it in to one of if not the best frame shops here and they measured the frame to within 1mm...which is even better than Toyota tolerance per them. If that isn't a testimony to the strength of the 100 frame/chassis...!

So I don't know where the difference could be or how one would measure to find out. I know from previous comments when I complained about not having enough caster (and after getting Carl's UCAs I could feel improvement with respect to improved caster) you stated your's didn't have the same issue.
 
one4x4dad said:
They squeak about 1/2 the time, a loud groaning with every movement unless you hit them with lubricant every week or so.... Its frustrating....Other than that the wheels have kept spinning for 30k odd miles. Guess you could upgrade speakers to avoid the sound, but everyone around will stop and look at you when you pull up groaning and squeaking....
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What is squeeking, the ball or the bushings?
 
From thread on rear lower control arms.

ShottsUZJ100 said:
...
Until one test drives BOTH technologies one should keep their opinions at bay. You don't hear me talking about FJ60's do ya?
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I hadn't realized you test drove Carl's UCAs.
 
Skidoo said:
From thread on rear lower control arms.



I hadn't realized you test drove Carl's UCAs.
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Two different issues. I just luv how some folks love to take things out of context and even from totally different threads. Luv it!

One does not have to drive a 100 with aftermarket UCA's to know this:

*Because the 100's alignment can be aligned into spec without them

*Because some (like me) will not embrace the noise and added mainenance to be worth the small gain.

*Because I (my opinion) believe the added CV angle is not good for the truck.

I can see where UCA's on certain rigs (like FJC's) could make for a decent addition. Not on a 100 though. Not on my 100...at any cost and any brand.

Because of the above factual points I would never utilize them on my 100. No reason the test drive them. IF they made some incredible difference (which they don't on a 100-series) I'd not consider them for the added noise and maintenance (reported by several others) alone.
 
you dont need to run more lift, Because of the factual point that I (my opinion) believe it allows more droop on that obstacle...not just more lift rolling down the road.
 
spressomon said:
Took it in to one of if not the best frame shops here and they measured the frame to within 1mm...which is even better than Toyota tolerance per them. If that isn't a testimony to the strength of the 100 frame/chassis...!
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Dang tough rigs! :clap:
 
1" more downtravel if you only have 2" is double! 1" is minimal if you are talking articulation, but quite substantial for ride improvement on washboard. As for squeaking, i use a Silicone spray with teflon, once per month at most. My first set of uniballs lasted about 60k miles. I still have the original urethane bushings. I added zircs and have greased them maybe 3 times. I am not too worried about flexing on rocks, this is just not the vehicle for that. I do however rack up thousands of miles off pavement on washboard, etc. I have an alternate commute to work on FS roads that I travel high speed, lots of dust and washboard 50 miles roundtrip, not to boast about my nature filled morning and evenings. I hate noises myself, and I have had squeaks (from uniball) after a car wash or something, but with that Silicone spray lube with teflon, they are quiet, I promise. The new arms will also include grease fittings for the upper mounts. I also am working on getting some dust boots to offer. The uniball arms are nothing new, and are quite proven in many vehicles. I did not invent them, I just made them happen for our vehicle because nobody else would. I have considered offering some with ball joints too, but fact is that the market is just not that big.


ShottsUZJ100 said:
Why the desire for such a modification? Another one-inch front travel maybe? Other reason? If it's the added inch then the cost is EXCESSIVE! Then there's added maintance and noise others reported. Again, what do you gain in the end?

OK, so we always want more articulation on our trucks. So what do think makes more of a difference on the trail?

1. Adding 1" wheel travel to the front?

2. Adding 3" wheel travel to the rear?

Unless you road race your Hundy around Laguna Seca where the one-inch extra front droop will help then the answer is NUMBER TWO! WAIT...if you race the Seca then you won't have a lift so adding droop gains you nothing any how.

On the trail the extra 3" to the rear makes for a large GAIN. No added maintenance or noise either. My advice for those wanting trail perfomance...address the REAR FIRST if your desire is better articulation.
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uzj100 commute.webp
 
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I have seen these UCAs on stenh's rig and I was able to notice an increase in the amount of down travel just by watching him go through various obstacles.

Honestly, even if you have to grease the joints once a week, its not a big deal with zerk fittings and a grease gun it would take maybe 5 mins.....if your slow. You could do it while your filling up the tank.

If i ever go to a tradition suspension (non-AHC) setup, I will definitely consider adding them.
 
grease

Mine are the first and Ive only greased the bushings 3 x ever. The uniball requires a quick squirt maybe once a month. I mean quick, like walk by in clean clothes, reach into wheel well w/ spray lube and squirt. Took longer to type this:) In fact if you've bought the arms and are having issues, send me an email and I'll send you a can.

pman said:
I have seen these UCAs on stenh's rig and I was able to notice an increase in the amount of down travel just by watching him go through various obstacles.

Honestly, even if you have to grease the joints once a week, its not a big deal with zerk fittings and a grease gun it would take maybe 5 mins.....if your slow. You could do it while your filling up the tank.

If i ever go to a tradition suspension (non-AHC) setup, I will definitely consider adding them.
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I can't speak to squeaking as I'm 4k miles into them and no issues with it. I can say that I am lifted 2.75" and noticed an incredible difference especially going over speed bumps etc... but also just making hard turns where I used to notice the decrease in traction on the outside wheel, that "issue" is gone.

Very happy with them and I'll buy some spray lube when the time comes.

Plus, I had to replace my UCA's and the cost was roughly the same as OEM. Not sure I would have done it just for the sake of doing it if I didn't need replacements, but for me it was a no-brainer.
 
Bringing this one back to life, guys. Thanks.

Time to replace the OEM UCAs on my '98 LX. 150k miles and the DS is starting to get some play in it. So, question is:

To those of you who have now been running aftermarket UCAs for a while now, was it worth it with regards to squeaking and maintenance? I really don't do much articulation-necessary driving on hard core trails. I do, however, plut a lot of miles on the truck, fully loaded, on back roads throughout the US and CA.

Need to get this done prior to a 6k miles trip to Guatemala coming up in Dec. The cost b/t OEM and aftermarket is more or less the same. I drive Christo's old pearl white LX, btw, with OME lift, Slee diff drop and resi shocks, and 315/70/17s.

Any thoughts on which way to go? You guys who have done the Carl's or Total Chaos, would you do it again or go with OEM?

Thanks for the help.

Wes
 
I have TC's on my Tacoma but its basically an identical deal... unibal + greaseable urethane inboards.
I've started with a shot of grease at each oil change but now it's maybe every 6 months and takes seconds to do. I've actually never had a peep from these and I overheat shocks as I often wheel it hard and fast.

I would probably go for it on a daily driver again. I'm just waiting for my 100 to need upper ball joints and the JT arms are my replacement plan without a doubt!

I do however have some Daystar Greasable shackles with urethane on the taco that don't actually get the grease where they need it and those squeak like crazy but it doesn't bother me much... your results may vary.

I've been using Daystars lube and mini gun on both... not cheap but easy to use and getting the job done.
 
I get about an inch of extra droop out of mine, an absolutely no squeaking.
 
CentralOverland said:
Bringing this one back to life, guys. Thanks.

Time to replace the OEM UCAs on my '98 LX. 150k miles and the DS is starting to get some play in it. So, question is:

To those of you who have now been running aftermarket UCAs for a while now, was it worth it with regards to squeaking and maintenance? I really don't do much articulation-necessary driving on hard core trails. I do, however, plut a lot of miles on the truck, fully loaded, on back roads throughout the US and CA.

Need to get this done prior to a 6k miles trip to Guatemala coming up in Dec. The cost b/t OEM and aftermarket is more or less the same. I drive Christo's old pearl white LX, btw, with OME lift, Slee diff drop and resi shocks, and 315/70/17s.

Any thoughts on which way to go? You guys who have done the Carl's or Total Chaos, would you do it again or go with OEM?

Thanks for the help.

Wes
Click to expand...

For your application the aftermarket UCA's offer ZERO benefit over OEM. OEM cost less, last a long time as you know and require ZERO maintenance.

Aftermarket UCA's offer almost ZERO benefit to a rock crawler style of wheeling.

I can see their use ONLY if somebody has some certain driving style where they need to fit a special shock that does not fit in the stock fashion.

UCA's can offer more benefits on certain other rigs...on the 100 they are mostly worthless.
 
ShottsUZJ100 said:
For your application the aftermarket UCA's offer ZERO benefit over OEM. OEM cost less, last a long time as you know and require ZERO maintenance.

Aftermarket UCA's offer almost ZERO benefit to a rock crawler style of wheeling.

I can see their use ONLY if somebody has some certain driving style where they need to fit a special shock that does not fit in the stock fashion.

UCA's can offer more benefits on certain other rigs...on the 100 they are mostly worthless.
Click to expand...

Have you ever run these arms? Have you ever gone on a trail run with someone who had these arms to see how they actually performed?
 
Newps,

Please just ignore. We cant start another one of these. Everyone on here knows how it will end up.

There is a good summary of this midway down page 6 of "when pit bulls attack", in finned furred feathers.
 
I have Carl's. I like them, maintenance is truly irrelevant and as simple as Carl stated. I spray mine every 2 months or so and after a serious wheeling weekend. They make zero noise and ride great. It's enough for me.
 
Yukon LX said:
Newps,

Please just ignore. We cant start another one of these. Everyone on here knows how it will end up.
Click to expand...

It's important to others who read this thread to know if he has any actual experience with this product. If he has run them or seen them in action then his opinions are valid. If he has not ever run them or ever seen them in action then they can draw their own conclusions about the validity of his comments.
 
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