Better anti wrap ideas?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

T

troyintahoe

10 Year 15 Year 20 Year
Joined
Aug 11, 2003
Threads
98
Messages
321
I'm looking for a better anti wrap set up for my 60. I feel the normal anti wrap set ups hinder the flex of the rear end after installation. I've seen a very elaborate set up on a Jeep forum. I was hoping to find ideas on a better mousetrap here on Mud. Suggestions please.
 
Picture_024.sized.jpg


Picture_023.sized.jpg


katempcy_0907_079_1.sized.jpg


classis shackle set up all bushings even I dont think it bothers the flex at all and it helps rear end hoop too
 
I am just in the progress of building one for my 40, i like to use some steering linkages i got laying around anyway.
anti-wrap-overview.jpg

I will use the original counterparts for the fix at the rear axle and build a shackle for the front.
If that doesnt work........i will post up. ;)
 
FJ40-GARAGE said:
I am just in the progress of building one for my 40, i like to use some steering linkages i got laying around anyway.
anti-wrap-overview.jpg

I will use the original counterparts for the fix at the rear axle and build a shackle for the front.
If that doesnt work........i will post up. ;)
Click to expand...


Peter--You are kidding, right?

A steering linkage is no where near strong enough for an anti-wrap bar.
 
Cruiserdrew said:
Peter--You are kidding, right?

A steering linkage is no where near strong enough for an anti-wrap bar.
Click to expand...

No i am trying it, did you ever break a steering linkage on the trail?:confused:
Maybe bend the rod but never broke a ball joint.....yet, i guess ist worth a try.:hhmm:

Hazelnut Cream will be in your hands after may....... ;)
 
FJ40-GARAGE said:
No i am trying it, did you ever break a steering linkage on the trail?:confused:
Maybe bend the rod but never broke a ball joint.....yet, i guess ist worth a try.:hhmm:

Hazelnut Cream will be in your hands after may....... ;)
Click to expand...



Hope you do not kill a pinion at the same time.

Those steering linkages are not strong enough..

I have seen a bunch of linkages broken on the trail..

By bet, the first time you put your foot into it, it will die..




Troy, what do you conssider a "normal" rear traction bar?

Even a ladder setup will not hamper articulation if designed correctly. the exotic systems tend to do nothing but over complicate things..
 
FJ40-GARAGE said:
Hazelnut Cream will be in your hands after may....... ;)
Click to expand...


Maybe we are talking 2 different things. That steering linkage as a rear axle wrap bar?????

If what you say about the Hazelnut Cream is true, we'll be toasting you from Rubicon Springs. Listen for the vibe...:D
 
Anti wrap

What do you think of the weld on kit from Rocklogic?? If you all say no problem with flex then I am game for a standard set up. Troy
 
Mace said:
Hope you do not kill a pinion at the same time.

Those steering linkages are not strong enough..

I have seen a bunch of linkages broken on the trail..

By bet, the first time you put your foot into it, it will die..
Click to expand...

Mace..... i already killed two t-cases, so i made a steelplate and that problem was gone, now i start breaking pinions i am at two of them now...just changed another differential this weekend, i guess my rig badly needs a awb.

Convince me that the balljoints wont handle it and i dont even think about touching them anymore for that kind of stuff. I will beef up the pipes anyway so i dont think they will bent.

@Andy: A friend of you will come around in may, he will be the courier.:D
 
FJ40-GARAGE said:
Mace..... i already killed two t-cases, so i made a steelplate and that problem was gone, now i start breaking pinions i am at two of them now...just changed another differential this weekend, i guess my rig badly needs a awb.

Convince me that the balljoints wont handle it and i dont even think about touching them anymore for that kind of stuff. I will beef up the pipes anyway so i dont think they will bent.

@Andy: A friend of you will come around in may, he will be the courier.:D
Click to expand...

Steering is always just push pull.. a traction bar will have lateral forces that will bend the joints almost immedately. Which orientation are you planning to mount the frame side joint in?

I doubt that I can convince you. Experience will be your friend.

You also never mentioned that you were going to reinforce the linkages themselves.

(it will still fail)
 
Last edited:
Mace, Andy, Vette60,
you convinced me ......:hhmm:...i kick that steering stuff and build one like vette60 has, just with the shackle upside down.:wrench::wrench:
Better safe than sorry.:steer:

wrap%20bar.jpg
 
I spoke with "The Mr. Mace" and I am getting parts together since I am getting ready to make one of these for my rig and have a few questions.

Post # 3 has a long anti wrap bar and the shackle on top of the cross member skid plate. The full length tube is on the bottom of the assembly. The top bar of the traction assy is not even or on the same plane as the frame. I thought you wanted the top rail parallel to the frame as much as possible.


Post # 13 has a shorter anti wrap bar and the shackle on the bottom of the cross member.

Don't I want the anti wrap bar at least as long as the drive shaft as seen in Post #3. This will allow my springs to work instead of limiting the springs?

I searched traction bar and anti wrap bar. I go tons of thread of people telling other people they need one. Is there a better thread on them?
 
An anti wrap leaf in the springpack helps.
kling-on"s design is a more techically correct design than the second example posted by FJ40 garage.
The floating link should be below the traction bar always in tension.
But then again, theoretically, the traction bar should be on the right side of the pumkin to reduce torque steer.... Not an easy fit with the landcruiser's offset
 
lcwizard said:
An anti wrap leaf in the springpack helps.
kling-on"s design is a more techically correct design than the second example posted by FJ40 garage.
The floating link should be below the traction bar always in tension.
But then again, theoretically, the traction bar should be on the right side of the pumkin to reduce torque steer.... Not an easy fit with the landcruiser's offset
Click to expand...

There are tradeoffs in either direction. By mounting the shackle above the link you typically will experience less wheel hop (better gepmetry). But, then it typicaly hangs down a lot lower..

The shackle can be in tension or compression.. A properly designed mount won't care. Hell, the mount itself won't see any difference in forces..
 
Anyone ever plotted out the actual travel path of a leaf sprung rear axle?
It isn't what you might think it is. Consider that left alone the pinion shaft centerline angle relative to the ground changes very little through the whole range of travel.

Adding this design of traction bar forces a large change in the pinion angle since the frame end pivot is essentially at a fixed elevation relative to the frame (shackle really only allows fore/aft movement). That means that the spring has to take on an 'S' shape to get to the extremes of the travel range.
I'm not saying that this design won't work. I am saying the that the forces involved can be surprisingly high in unexpected places. I've read of K5's that shear off 5/8" axle mount bolts. I'm not surprised. Don't be surprised if leaf spring leaves, particularly the mains, don't last as long as they used to.
 
I am running the 63" chevy 1/2 ton srpings on my rig. They are long and soft. I can picture axle wrap or spring "S" shaping pretty easy. I have snapped a pinioin or two but that was on my 40 and using the little pedal on the right a little too much with lockers.

I don't want to do it again.

ntsqd said:
Anyone ever plotted out the actual travel path of a leaf sprung rear axle?
It isn't what you might think it is. Consider that left alone the pinion shaft centerline angle relative to the ground changes very little through the whole range of travel.

Adding this design of traction bar forces a large change in the pinion angle since the frame end pivot is essentially at a fixed elevation relative to the frame (shackle really only allows fore/aft movement). That means that the spring has to take on an 'S' shape to get to the extremes of the travel range.
I'm not saying that this design won't work. I am saying the that the forces involved can be surprisingly high in unexpected places. I've read of K5's that shear off 5/8" axle mount bolts. I'm not surprised. Don't be surprised if leaf spring leaves, particularly the mains, don't last as long as they used to.
Click to expand...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom