Disapointed, don't know what to do about paint job.

[Ambrew]

Ok, So I've tried to paint the tub myself and decided that, for the final exterior and interior, I would have it done. They did some bodywork and sprayed the tub for 1700$

I did specify limco supreme (urethane paint) when I dropped it off.

Went to pick it up last week, and the color did not match what I had painted underneath by a shade or two. They offered to match the firewall and I'm happy with that.

Got the tub back today, Looks good.

Here's the deal: they sprayed a base coat / clear system on it. It's not what I wanted, I was going for the more original look of single stage.

I can be agressive and maybe get something out of it at the cost of not going there again or just wait another 3 months until I can have it re painted for probably another grand.

Opinions?

Now i dont have the money to have it re painted and frankly no the time either. All said and done I'm in 2400$ on bodywork (not including steel work and panels) for the tub alone.

 

[Coolerman]

If it was their mistake they should man up and re-do it. However... if it was not in writing , it's your word against theirs if you had to go to court. It sure can't hurt to express your opinion to the owner. He might work out a deal with you on a re-paint.

 

[Bodean]

The base coat/clear coat will last longer and be more durable in the long run. Just my .02

 

[Living in the Past]

I would hate my FJ40 with clear coat paint. With single stage after while when the paint starts to fade you can rub it out or have that patina look. Clear coat just looks like shi$ when it goes. Here in the southwest UV and clear coat is a real problem. Factory painted vehicles less than ten year old can have the clear coat failing.

 

[Fast Eddy]

I did specify limco supreme (urethane paint) when I dropped it off.

How? In writing? Then you paid them?

I'd start with the owner by telling him you want it stripped and repainted and end with taking a significant refund as I wouldn't want them pissed at me while they were holding my rig hostage and working on it.

 

[lelandEOD]

That sucks! I'm doing my own paint job right now and know how much work is involved. Only strange thing is my local paint guru is telling me to be sure to do a clearcoat to keep the paint protected from the desert sun.

 

[Ambrew]

First off, thanks for the opinions.

Clear coat endures well here in the north east since we dont get the burning sun like you guys. This was a cash deal so my word agaisnt his. The breadown in communication is between the boss and the painter. It was clear what I wanted, but the painter was either too lazy to read or did not ask about the details.

I spoke to 2 body shops here and in montreal, both recommended clear coat..... So I may see later when it's time to finish everything paint wise.

I wouldn't want them pissed at me while they were holding my rig hostage and working on it.

I feel exactly the same way. Be it resolved that I will find another shop, even if it means more travel.


thanks again guys. Look for the pics of the tub in my thread, I'll post some soon.

 

[Living in the Past]

strange thing is my local paint guru is telling me to be sure to do a clearcoat to keep the paint protected from the desert sun.

I have no doubt clear coat will stay looking nicer longer sitting out in the sun. Problem once the clear coat starts to cloud up they is nothing you can do to bring it back. Plenty of 80 series here in AZ with the hoods and tops that the clear coat is shot. I have a couple Dune Beige FJ40s that I can still rub the paint out. My 76 spent it's life outside until I bought it six years ago. I remember back in the early eighties my mother-inlaw had a car with bad clear coat. Being the good son-inlaw and not knowing what clear coat was I tried to rub it out. The harder I tired the worst it got. Lesson learned (car was a piece of crap ford so no loss). Me I'll just keep the single stage paint and wax it.

 

[duffontap]

I like the look of the single stage and patina is even better. I loved the rust and patina on my '77 before I painted it, but it needed major body work and protection so I'm painting it now. I went with the bc/cc even though my wife and I don't like the look as much because it will last longer here on the Oregon coast where it will sit in my work parking space in salty coastal air with daily deluges every day all year every year (gets to sleep in a warm dry garage at night ).

Another thing, I prefer the look of patina but virtually everyone outside of the MUD community seems to prefer the high gloss look so if a guy was looking for attention from the ladies, the bc/cc would be a no brainer.

 

[akeyzoo]

Ambrew,
Since you and the owner were on the same page, have you followed up with him? This, unfortunately, is not an easy thing to resolve, but I would give the owner a shot.

BTW, one HUGE plus of single stage... I find touch ups incredibly easy and very hard to notice.

Chris

 

[toomanytoyzz]

Post a pic. What cc/bc system did they use? What did the $2400 get you? I know you said metal work wasn't included, but did they block sand, prime and seal before paint? Then after paint did they color sand and reassemble the body/emblems/weatherstripping etc. If so, $2400 is a smoking deal. When you are talking resto shop labor rate it is much higher than collision rate in my neck of the woods.

 

[Ambrew]

Post a pic. What cc/bc system did they use? What did the $2400 get you? I know you said metal work wasn't included, but did they block sand, prime and seal before paint? Then after paint did they color sand and reassemble the body/emblems/weatherstripping etc. If so, $2400 is a smoking deal. When you are talking resto shop labor rate it is much higher than collision rate in my neck of the woods.

It is RM Onyx by BASF. As I said, looks good. a few minor imperfections, but nothing major.

I did the metal work, and about 40 hours of body work. Remember, this is for a bare tub only. They did about 20 hours of sanding and filler to get it ready for paint which makes me think many of my hours were in vain. Then, epoxy prime and bc/cc. Nothing else. 1700 for them, and about 4-500 in materials on my side, including paint for the underside, epoxy primer, filler, etc etc etc. The rate is 60$, so not too bad.

I'll snap pics tomorow.

 

[Ambrew]

@ duff: I'm spoken for so don't need the shine!! but as I enquire further, I'm getting more pro bc/cc advice than ss. Kinda wanted the look to be original thought.... This truck will not get much patina... indoors in winter and so on.

@ akeyzoo: Definetly a pro of the single stage. Way more bush friendly.

 

[kcustom73]

Sorry about the paint. I taught you had said you where going to do it yourself last time we chated?

 

[Ambrew]

Hi Kevin, tried to do it myself but couldnt get it good enough. I spent a lot of time and some money to get it close, but in retrospect, it was kinda wasted. Lesson learned: rent a spray booth for final paint.

As promised earlier, some pics! You will also see my raptor bedliner with a (kinda close) colour match. It still looks good to me even if it's not perfectly matched. Took 2 bottles to do 2 coats, and I wasted some.

 

[kcustom73]

shinny Looking good. Who did you use to shoot it?

 

[Rummy]

The paint and the bed liner look’s good. The color mache looks good from here I can’t see much difference in the color. Do you have a pic up close of the seam between raptor bed liner/paint?

Keep up the good work

 

[Ambrew]

come see it for yourself!

 

[Eric Winkworth]

I always like function over form hence why I'm drawn to land cruisers in the first place... The paint looks great and the important thing is with the base/ clear it's a more maintience free tub then it would be otherwise... I think the most important thing with all land cruisers is keeping rust away and what you've done is going to accomplish that without a doubt...