Recent content by Yankee

Looks like I'll help contribute to keeping this long-living thread alive even longer. Which 80A alternator is the one that works the best (from RockAuto)? From what I'm reading, it looks like the Pure Energy 14461 is the correct one? Besides the extended bracket and fusible link from...

Does the early 80 series alternator produce more amps? I ended up finding a local alternator repair shop and getting my original alternator rebuilt. Definitely cheaper and nice to keep my original 60 series alternator, but they weren't able to up the amps on it so I'm stuck with 60A.

It's been a couple of months, so I wanted to see if you got this issue resolved? my alternator is about to bite the dust and I wanted to see if the Quality Power alternator is worth it before I dump the money into it.

Interesting. I'll still check the brake shoes to see if something is funky. The bleeder is on top with the brake lines below it for the rears. When I bled the brakes last Saturday there wasn't any air in the lines that I could see, and there isn't any brake fade. It's just that the first pump of...

Also, does FJ60s have self-adjusting brake shoes?

Thank you for the suggestions everyone. I checked everything out today and was going to bleed it all over it again, and then realized that I hadn't mentioned that my landcruiser is a 1985 FJ60; therefore, no LSPV exists. I'll go ahead and take the rear wheels off and check the brake shoe...

I haven't checked my rear shoe adjustment yet, and I didn't bleed the LSPV. I'll check those out tomorrow. Thanks for the suggestions. Is it possible that my issue might be a bad booster as well? I'm unsure since it's 40 years old.....

Drove up to Mt. Hood for some snowboarding yesterday. No snow on the roads right now because we've had a terrible snow season so far, but shredding on the mountain was fun. Almost rear-ended someone on the way home though because my brake pedal nearly went to the floor, so I get to figure that...

I have replaced the front calipers and pads, the rear wheel cylinders, and the master cyclinder. The brake lines were replaced with stainless braided lines prior to my ownership. The booster is still original. What is happening is on the first push of the brake pedal it goes right to the floor...

Dang just missed it! Hanging with the wait list homies.

Hey there! Yes, I meant to update this thread since I had last posted. When August rolled around I essentially gave up on figuring out what was wrong and decided to take it to a local classic car shop that my family and I had taken some of our classic cars to. The shop was closer than the...

Another update y'all: I tested the spark plugs wires and the cap and rotor of the dizzy and all of them look/tested good. I ordered a new OEM Denso coil thinking maybe the coil is on the fritz, but I installed the new one today and the sputtering around 1600-2000 rpm is still present. Going to...

So I've tested the FCS using both the battery and with the regular plugs and it's clicking, so that should mean that it's working correctly. I'm starting to wonder if it has something to do with either my spark plug wires, distributor, or coil. Anyone know how to test the coil or distributor?

So I should just remake the original connection like in this (crudely) drawn diagram I made? Visuals really help me so I thought I'd try to draw it out haha. From what it sounds like you're saying is to just remake the original connection to the plugs with jumper cables.

How would I wire it to be always on? As I posted earlier, I grounded the white wire of the FCS to the carb. Would it be different than that?