Recent content by Rick2000

Still works great. See pictures above for pinouts.

If you want just the glass look for a used assembly on eBay or marketplace and swap out the glass. I just did this on my 100. I was nervous going into it, but it was actually pretty easy. If it’s not you didn’t cook it enough. Don’t try to reuse the sealant. Sealant is readily available on...

Thanks. Always good to have someone talk me down from the OCD ledges. That and the fact Amsoil no longer stocks the GWR anyway.

Just about to do this job myself and at the risk of starting a holy war, want to ask the grease question again. Was looking at Lucas Red n' Tacky new formulation (calcium sulfonate) but since found Amsoil Water Resistant (GWR) that has higher drop point and lower washout. Both are calcium...

Just to close the loop on this I did just replace the entire master cylinder even though it was working just fine. I decided I’m going to have to replace it sometime anyway it’s just not going to be anytime soon. The last one lasted to 300,000+ and 25 years. If this one lasts another 25 years it...

Awesome that you’re giving it a go. I chickened out and replaced the whole module. I figured if I pulled it a little early at 300k, maybe this one will only last another 300k but I won’t regret it before then.

That’s what I was afraid of. It’s not leaking now, though, and as long as I’m going to replace the calipers anyway I don’t care those bleeders are over torqued. I’ll just pick up some new calipers and bleeders next time there’s a sale. Anyone know when that might be?

How did this story end? How was the leak resolved? My rear bleeders wouldn’t bleed they were so rusted out, no caps. I replaced with new bleeders I picked up from the dealership, but these both leaked when pedal pressure was applied. Only way I could get it to stop was to torque to 16ftlbs...

Ok, one more tip: Buy new bleeders and replace them before you take the old booster out of the car. Not only are you already going to be bleeding the brakes once you replace the booster anyway, but that bleeding will go much smoother if you’ve got full flow through your bleeder screws. I used...

Well that’s the number I typed in at my dealer and the part it said it was superseded by the 42. Wish they’d have told me I needed the new connector at that time. It’s really straightforward. The new connector even has the PIN numbers already printed on it. I colored them sitting inside...

Just to finish up this thread, here’s the old connector for the last pressure sensor. Here’s the one I picked up from the dealer today: And here it is all installed and working on the new brake booster. Other than having to wait for the weekend to be over for the dealer ship to open...

Nope. You're right. I didn't realize I was looking at three bare wires just shoved into the sensor without the connector. Definitely doesn't match the wiring diagram.

Thanks so much for the part number. It's ordered. Now all I need is the pin-out.🙏 https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/resolved-bought-the-wrong-master-cylinder-assembly.1353340/post-15772118 Found this in the EWD: For Cruisers after 2002: For Cruisers before 2002: Couldn't find the part...

It lists my brake booster as discontinued and superseded by this one. The pressure sensor for my brake booster is also listed as discontinued so maybe that’s why I have to switch. You don’t have the part number for the harness side connector do you? Do I need new pins for the new connector or...

New booster vs. old booster. The electrical connectors don’t match. Move the old connector to the new booster or replace the connector on the harness? I’m doubting moving the old connector across is as simple as putting a socket on it.