Recent content by pithicus

If a fusible pops , testing for a short must be done or it will just pop the new fusible. There are better ways of testing, an inline fuse for example.

the low amp wire is for testing for shorts only. 5-10 amps is used to protect the rest of the harness. But yes non flameproof wire can catch fire, so when testing you have to watch it and get ready to snip it.

Check all the fuses, and until you get the fusible link, you can remove the old one [ones] and check them for continuity. You can replace the old bad fusible with a piece of approx 5-10 amp wire temporarily , but watch it , if there's a short, it will get hot quickly. good luck

I went searching ebay for 80 boosters after I saw this post and found this dual diaphragm 70 series booster. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/185623890457? Sounds cheap. Have no idea of quality. My 73 brakes are woeful . I will get one of these and report the results.

If you get the starter working again, get a current draw test when cranking. That should tell you the condition of the starter. I'm pretty sure the new geared starters for f/ 2f engines fit the 80 3fe.

It could be a partial short in the starter field windings or rotor windings. The extra current draw is welding the contacts.

If you squirt a bit of wd40 in the weep hole it can quieten down a bad bearing temporarily. Not a permanent fix, but can sometimes tell you if you have a bad bearing. Won't tell you if the impeller is scraping due to in/out play though.

That noise sounds water pump related. Did the pump have any in/out play?

You have the multimeter cables in the wrong holes. the black one goes in the bottom hole [com] and the red goes where the black is now [V#mA] #= ohm.

Also, when my primary jet clogged, I could always limp home with my foot down and the secondaries would keep me going. It might pay to check out your secondary vac diaphragm too.

Don't know sorry. If it's still playing up after the primary jet and solenoid are cleaned, it might need to be pulled apart.

My main primary jet blocks from time to time. but it usually still idles ok. Make sure there's power to the solenoid and it clicks when powered. It's easy to clean the solenoid and blow out/flush where it screws in. another possibility is water in the fuel.

When that happens it will idle and that's about all it will do. You can try cleaning the end of idle/fuel stop solenoid and blowing out where it screws in.

Yes it does. I "think" in australia from 1985 onwards the fj60 was called the fj62 and had the 3f carb engine, available in manual or auto. We never got the 3fe until the 80 series.

Also, did you try the wire from bat+ to coil+ trick? It's important to do this to rule out a problem with the ballast bypass circuit.