Recent content by Jonesey

Considering Iowa temperatures (will likely be in teens or twenties Fahrenheit when I get this running), I'm considering using T4 10w30 for break-in oil (first 500 miles), then change oil and continue to run the 10w30 through the cold months. My initial start will be in a heated shop, so probably...

@GreenPump Thanks! I have referenced that chart for a few other bolts that were not clear in manual, so that's my plan, but was hoping to find those specific bolts/instruction in a manual that shows the A343F/2LTE combo. Not sure I'm going to. @GTSSportCoupe Oh man, no, that would be bad! I...

Update on rebuild: nearly complete with assembly on the stand. New washers for injectors, fuel rail, and fuel hose to rail show up today, then I can button up intake side. When I go to install engine, question on bellhousing-to-block and torque converter bolt torque pecs: I have the RM183e...

Yes, guessing you have the electronic pump, not the mechanical (throttle actuated) one. Even without pulling it, you should be able to see if it has the (5) electrical connectors going to it and whether it has the throttle cable connection, or not. If you're able, recommend following the other...

Is this your pump? Same part number noted. This shop is in Oregon and they do a lot of work on the import diesels. Give them a call, ask them condition of the pump. I recommend getting a genuine pump. https://www.thefitgarage.com/fit-garage-sale/1kz-te-fuel-injection-pump

What do you guys think about this damage on the inside of the oil pan? Ever seen this? Near front of pan. Based on what I saw upon taking everything apart, I'm struggling to understand/think this happened while under my ownership, but when this ran low on oil, I did have a knocking sound that...

Update on this: Got the 2LTE out, on engine stand and all broken down. Scoring on cylinder walls 1 and 4 (makes sense) - was burning oil, ran low, got hot. Cylinder head cracked - no surprise there. Block, crankshaft, pistons, connecting rods - all sent to machine shop for inspection and...

Is this for a 2L engine? IIRC, pretty sure it bolts to bottom side of intake manifold. I pulled my 2L-TE recently and I'm pretty certain that is where this attached.

Agree re: crap parts, thanks for that advice / encouragement. Also glad you made glow plug comment, I had same thought. They did come out quite easily. Last owner told me they changed them, so they've been in there between 18-24 months. Hoping it's anti-seize. The silvery look of it on my hands...

Here are a couple photos from initial take apart - a lot of oil post turbo. Took intercooler piping off, pulled glow plugs, pulled head cover.

Nice! Thanks, yes, painful. Head gasket definitely went out in addition to rod knock sound I was hearing. After sitting in garage for a couple weeks, there is coolant on cardboard that I've had under it - near front of engine. Exhaust manifold side of engine is dry, intake side is wet and oily...

I did write them, but yes, wow, good advice - last thing I need is a nightmare bad or wrong part. Thanks. Planning to pull motor in coming weeks - my dad has a hoist in his shop, going to trailer it there and dig into it. I'll bring motor back to my garage, get an engine stand and start going...

Anyone know if this short block would work for my 1991 LJ78 2L-TE with auto trans? If yes, considering this route with a new 3L head instead of rebuilding bottom end...

Thanks for the input. I have done a number of the reliability things, including: gauges to monitor coolant temp, boost, and EGT (first thing I did beyond normal fluid changes, new air filter and new fuel filter - about a year ago), air-air front mounted intercooler, 2.5" turbo-back custom...

Thanks, @GreenPump, appreciate your assistance and thoughts on this. I AM trying to keep costs down. I also want to do this right / with something that will last. I like the idea of avoiding a mystery import engine. To be extra clear, if I did rebuild my bottom end with machined block and crank...