Recent content by jakerudy

I've been happy with the Falkens on my FJ60 and 3/4 ton truck.

That worked. Thanks, saved me a lot of trial and error.

Thanks, I'll give that a try.

'85 JF60 and the wipers suddenly stopped. Motor ran fine so pulled it and the linkage had come loose at the old plastic bushing. Got a new / used assembly and replaced all of it. After a few adjustments the wiper range is correct but here is my problem. When turned off instead of stopping at...

I've had Cooper AT's on my 3/4 ton Dodge truck and wasn't happy with them. Pulling heavy trailers on rough roads they just didn't hold up. My local tire dealer in a very small town farming area dealer used to recommend them but now recommends Falken. My favorite was the Maxxis MT-753 but...

Been awhile since the last update. Over 50k since the conversion. MPG with the Falken AT's hasn't changed significantly, still a little over 20 mpg. They are quieter on the road but with the Cummins is doesn't matter much. It drives better but I'm not sure if that is the tires or alignment...

Fixed mine by adding an extra ground from the battery to the chassis. Easy to check with a jumper wire before you clamp it on.

Yep. I sold my parents solid plain jane 2WD '88 with about 200k for $2K. Good reliable vehicle but I have no use for a 2WD pickup.

315 miles on half a tank is impressive. I can't get that from the 6BT.

Also I had a Colt AR-15 sitting on the back seat and a S&W 44 Mag in the front. Not a word was said about them.

Figure it's time for an update. A few months ago I started getting the death wobble. I replaced the tie rod ends and steering damper which made it better but eventually it came down to the tires. I put 40k on the BFG MT's and they were worn out but that is the most miles I've gotten out of a...

Those temps sound about right. You want the operating temp high enough to run efficiently which is why you should only remove the thermostat in a break down situation. As long as the temp holds around there I'd just drive it.

It is only at the low pressure point behind the impeller but it does reduce the ability of the pump to move coolant. Higher pressure in the system reduces the cavitation. At lower speed there is less pressure drop behind the impeller blade.

As the pump spins it creates a high pressure in front of the impeller and low pressure behind which can cause the coolant to boil behind the blade and reduce the flow of coolant. The higher the rpms the greater the pressure difference. A higher pressure cap reduces the cavitation. It happens...

Waterpump cavitating was my first thought. When I bought my FJ60 back in the mid 1990's I replaced every hose, coolant, thermostat, and an aftermarket cap. Took off on a road trip across Texas in July so temps were around 100F and it started running hot at interstate speed but would run fine...