Recent content by D0g

Like i give a $#it, people like him are the reason i hate using this forum, you try to give advice and they talk down to you like you're retarded wtf talk about toxic!

You must be REAL popular at parties.....

Thanks for pointing that out after i already said it captain obvious...

Thats what i did

Daily driven with 315,000 miles and 7 years since I replaced it, this is what it looks like as i type this. Where is the fire?

The relay wire to the fuse box is the fusible link im talking about.I use the OEM relay and it dosent get hot, and the amperage is the same i measurered it its been nearly a decade so i have that as proof while you just speculate.

Change your fusible link wire to a thicker gauge. Mine would constantly blow out, havent had a problem im 7 years since i changed it.

The 1HD-T and modern engines adujst themselves, the older disels like the 2H, 3B etc. smoke at higher altitudes and you can adjust them to run leaner just like a carbed gasser.

It could be air or your pump might just be sticking. My 70 had the same issue, at first i thought it was air as it would die under load. J removed the fuel lines to the pump and sprayed carb cleaner along with compressed air into it and that fixed it.

I swapped mine out for one of these ,its much better than the stock one.

You seem to know more than most, let me ask you the same question as my post. What was the rationale behind the use of 24 Volts?

It's weather/climate based, at least that's what I was told.I asked the same question what the point of 24 volts was.Rationale behind 24 volt systems? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/rationale-behind-24-volt-systems.1241339/

I asked a similar question, and it has to do with regions that have colder climates received the 24 volt system for the ease of cold starting. 12 volt is found in tropical climates, as for which is better , the 12 volt parts are more common. I have a 24 volt bj41.

No problem good luck getting it going!